Community Brag Posts

This is one of the cheapest projects for my kids I have ever completed!! And the most rewarding. I think everyone of my neighbors has been on the teeter totter...including adults :) My kids just love it and I am thinking of making a few for my nephews for Christmas. I was able to find all the wood I needed in my scrap pile. I had the PVC pipe and bolt already also so all I had to make a trip to the store for was the foam for the seats. My son helped me build this in an hour. I liked the unfinished look so I just sprayed it with a little Thompson Water Seal. Thank you Ana White!!

These are made from the three drawer plans but modified the size to meet our needs and used planks for shelves instead of drawers. Painted white and black gel stain. 

UPDATE FROM ANA - We have received MANY requests for this plan and have created a plan inspired by this post here.

Shopping List (for ONE bedside table) + Tools

• 1 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
• 5 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
• 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
• 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4" brad nails
• wood glue
• Kreg Jig
• Compound Miter saw
• Drill
• Brad Nailer (18 guage)

Cut List (for ONE bedside table)

• 4 - 1x2 @ 14" - Side panel trim
• 8 - 1x4 @ 23-1/4" - Side panels
• 4 - 2x2 @ 27-1/4" - Legs
• 6 - 2x2 @ 14" - Shelf support
• 8 - 1x4 @ 17" - Shelves
• 5 - 1x4 @ 18" - Top

Cut 1x4s and 1x2s with miter saw. Layout side panel 1x4s as shown above.  Measure and cut 1x2 to length.  Nail the 1x2 to the 1x4s, two nails per overlap with glue.  Make sure your side panels are square.  Build two.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on inside edge of 1x4 ends as shown above.  Cut 2x2s with compound miter saw. Attach to the 2x2 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Set Kreg Jig to 1-1/2" setting.  Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes on end of each 2x2, one per end.  Attach to 2x2s with wood glue as shown above.

Cut 1x4 shelf boards with compound miter saw.  Nail and glue to the inside of the project as shown above.

Cut 1x4 top boards with compound miter saw.  Nail and glue to top with 1-1/4" nails and wood glue.

If you wish to add a back, measure and cut from 1/4" plywood and attach with 3/4" brad nails.

This is the perfect workbench for my needs.

I upgraded the casters to bigger ones as my shop's floor is in rough shape.

I also added storage under the two work surface next to the miter saw. This was just a matter of closing under the 2X4 frame and making the two sections on casters a little shorter. The only downside for that mod is that the plywood can bend a bit since it is not screwed to the frame. I don't mind since it falls flat as soon as there is weight on it. Also, this mod makes it hard to include fence system (it would need to be removable, like fixed with dowels only, no glue) and almost impossible to include a precise fence system since it would need to be removable. In my case, I do rough, non-repetitive cuts, so there is no need. 

TIP : Pay a little extra for smooth plywood. I lost a lot of time sanding mine :(

I recently published my first foldable farmhouse table last week here: http://ana-white.com/2013/06/foldable-farmhouse-table The first one I made was very heavy because I used 2x6 tops and 4x4 legs. I decided to make another one that would be lighter and easier to transport. The plans are basically the same just instead I used 1x6 for the top and put 2x4s together for the legs. I also shorted the length by about a foot. The only issue with making the table shorter length is that the legs don't fold completely flush. You could easily make the legs short enough to fold flush, but then the table was a little too short from the ground up for us. The same as before I simply used kreg joints to join the top boards together. I then made a 2x4 frame and attached it to the bottom. I made each of the legs separately by joining 2x4s together and sanding everything down. Everything was stained before putting the legs on using Miniwax Dark walnut stain. I used 2 coats of Miniwax water based clear coat to seal it. A notch was cut out on each of the bottom 2x4 supports on the legs and I glued in a small piece of wood cut to size. These are so I can put in a 2x4 support board under the table so that the legs do not fold in on themselves when it is standing up. The legs are just attached using door hinges you can buy in packs in the hardware section. Be careful when screwing into the 1x6 top not to use too long of screws or else you will over screw and have them come through into your table top. Table design was by Amber Veatch Designs and photographed by Andi Mans Photography

After looking at some terribly overpriced particle board vanities, I found the lovely Rustic Farmhouse Double Bath Vanity plans and decided to go for it. I think this vanity turned out much better than anything I could have bought with the same amount of money, and it will last much longer too!! Thanks Ana!!