Community Brag Posts

I went from a 6 x 8 Harbor Freight Greenhouse to this one 10 x 12. I added a few windows...

Am a big fan of Ana's work, and have used several of her plans in prior builds including the more traditional Adirondack chairs. Those stayed with my old house, and I wanted something different for my new house. Really liked her Modern Adirondack design with the floating arm rest. However, plans are like recipes to me--a guideline. I wanted the back boards to run up and down, and I am a bit more robust than the lovely and petite Ms. White, so they would need to be wider after I built the first one at 19 1/2" wide per plan. The next three I made 22" wide and that worked well without throwing off the geometry and angles of the other parts. Since I ran the backboards up and down, I needed some cross beams for stability and to give an attachment point for the middle of the boards. Cut some 2x4s at 15" wide, drilled pocket holes in both ends, and attached in between the back supports with the pockets facing up to be hidden by the back boards. All of the 2x4s were leftover cut-offs from the houses being built in my neighborhood. Since the frames were free, I splurged and went with cedar boards for the backs and bottoms. With the wider frames, I had to use 1x12s ripped down to 10 3/4" to get the right look (about a board's width in between). Needed some color, so I painted the frames Teal Seaglass from Menards. Cedar was stained with a natural deck stain from Sherwin Williams. I experimented with salt paint (mixing unsanded grout with the paint) to give a heavily textured and weathered finish but this was unecessary--the wood was distressed enough and I am a terrible painter. It also toned down the color so I skipped that step and just went with 2 coats of plain paint. It looks like outdoor furniture should up close. As always, am pleased with Ana's plans. Thank you for doing all the hard work!

Great plans - thanks so much! Started with two chairs, and kept going...

MODS: Once built, we felt there wasn't enough back support, so added a 2x4 then 4x4 on top. Also added a 2x2 in back of the seat bed, so our 25" x 25" seat cushions didn't float around.

Recommend paint gun vs. painting by hand.

Entire wall fireplace built-in!

by 4.kids.50.states

My closet system is four separate units that I butted up together and attached to the wall with a "decorative" 2x4 railing around the entirety of the closet. The main unit looks the closest to the real design but is 8 feet long and 8 feet tall to avoid extra cutting of boards. The smaller unit only has one area for hanging up clothes and is around 5 feet long which is just the length of the wall. I also built a unit for holding sheets and towels and another for my wife's shoes.

The plans are really easy to follow but I would suggest a few things:
-Do stain and boards before cutting; this would have been a nightmare otherwise.
-If you use the metal clothing rods (if I could go back in time I would have used wooden dowels) make sure that you put those in before you attach any boards between the support structures. I ended up having a 35 inch gap instead of a 36 inch gap and it killed my momentum.
-I made mine 8 feet tall because it was less to cut and then re-stain; time wise it probably was a scratch cause I had to build it in place and at the end it was very tight to work in the space.

We wanted a shorter version, so that it would hide behind this fence. I just needed somewhere to store lawnmower, wheelbarrow, and a few yard supplies. I started putting the roof on hinges, but the gas struts couldn't support the 170 pound roof. So it's fixed in place (stronger structure anyway). That's why I went with 2x4's for the framed walls instead of 2x2's.