Build this end table! DIY this end table with free plans from Ana White!
2 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2x2 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 4 feet long
1 1/4” and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
*If you can't find 2x3s - a 2x6 can be ripped in half to make two 2x3s. They should measure 2 1/2" wide x 1 1/2" thick.
4 – 2x3 @ 27” (Both ends cut at 10 degree bevel/5 degree angle, parallel, long point to short point)
2 – 2x3 @ 9 3/4" (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
2 – 2x3 @ 13" (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
2 – 2x2 @ 26 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
5 – 2x4 @ 31 1/2"
2 – 1x2 @ 24” (cut angles in last step)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
With the legs marked, add the aprons. Pay close attention to this diagram. The top apron is flush on top to the outside, but will NOT be on the inside, which is hidden under the seat.
Build two that are identical.
NOTE: Pocket hole users may wish to drill 1 1/2" pocket holes along top INSIDE edge of each end for attaching top in step 4.
For more photos and tips, and finishing information, please visit Ashley at Shanty 2 Chic.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.