Doors and drawers for the Apothecary Console.
Pin For Later!
2 – 1×8 Boards, 10′ Long 2″ Screws Scrap 1×16 and 1/4″ plywood from the base cabinet 16 Knobs 4 Total Euro Style Hinges, Full Overlay or Inset (see below)
Cut List: For 4 Drawers 4 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 13″ x14″ (Drawer bottoms, use scrap 1×16 pieces) 4 – 1×8 @ 13″ (Drawer Backs) 8 – 1×8 @ 14 3/4″ (Drawer Sides) 4 – 1×8 @ 14 1/2″ (Drawer Fronts 16 – 1/4″ plywood @ 7″ x 7 3/4″ (False Faces) Cut List: For Both Drawers (Drawers are not the same!) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 16″ x15 1/2″ (Larger Door, use scrap 1×16 pieces) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 16″ x14 5/8″ (Smaller Door, use scrap 1×16 pieces) 8 – 1/4″ plywood @ 7″ x 7 3/4″ (False Faces, use scraps from the back)
Please check the comments - really good reader advice in there!
Begin by fastening the drawer back to the drawer bottom using 2″ screws and glue. A trick I do to make my drawers slide better without having to buy hardware is rest the bottom (but not the back and sides and front) on a scrap piece of 1/4″ plywood when fastening the backs, sides and front. This raises the bottom 1/4″ and that way your bottom doesn’t drag when the door is opened and closed. After you finish you piece, you can rub vasoline on the sides and your drawers should glide smoothly on the side edges.
Here is what I would do because I’m a slight perfectionist. I would put all of your drawers into the drawer boxes without the false faces and center the drawers on the opening, with approximately an 1/8″ all the way around (a 1/4″ on the top). Then I would position the false faces over the drawers so that the false faces just covers this gap. Leave a 3/4″ space between the false faces. Glue and if you have your nailer handy, tack a few nails into the corners of the false faces. Clamp and let dry.