Build a rolling kids locker unit! Just like preschool! Free DIY plans from Ana-White.com
Preparation
1 – sheet ¾” PUREBOND plywood (shown in oak)
4 – 4 feet long 1x3 boards in matching species
1 – half sheet ¼” plywood in matching species
4 – caster wheels with plates
1 ¼” Pocket hole screws
1 ¼” finish nails
Wood glue
Edge Banding if staining
1 – 1x16 @ 48”
2 – 1x16 @ 14”
2 – 1x16 @ 10 3/4”
1 – 1x16 @ 46 1/2”
3 – 1x3 @ 46 1/2"
2 – 1x8 @ 36 1/4”
1 – 1x8 @ 46 1/2”
2 – 1x8 @ 33”
1 – ¼” plywood 48” x 48”
3 – 1x8 @ 15”
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
The first step is to cut your PureBond Plywood into more manageable strips. I suggest first ripping two strips from the full sheet into 15 3/4" wide strips, 8 feet long. Then cut your big pieces from these. Take all the scraps and rip into 7 3/4" wide strips.
You'll want to also drill all of your pocket holes at this stage. Go through the plan and mark each board where you will need a PH and drill. You will need to use 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws.
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 8
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Deneen Glidwell (not verified)
Mon, 06/25/2012 - 19:39
Haven
Thank you so much for the great workshop. I won the Ryobi compound saw and table! I will be following your blog now to learn how to use it! lol
Bill (not verified)
Mon, 06/25/2012 - 23:16
fastenings and pins
This design looks pretty well thought out. However do you think the pocket system is extra work for fastening the interior verticals? I'd do them simply countersunk from above/below and then you don't have the elliptical holes to fill.
The side verts would be stronger with the pockets though because of the grain directions.
The plywood back is actually critically important. If done right, with a good glue joint it will hold everything together. Without it, the system is rickety. You could even eliminate the pocket fastenings on the outer verts that are toward the back--because of the support of the back.
Now, for shelf pins: you don't describe how you deploy these. Accuracy of placement is important to prevent wobbly shelves. How did you do it?
Ilana (not verified)
Sat, 07/07/2012 - 20:22
Fixing some issues
Hi, Ana
This is my first project- I know, kinda crazy- and I am having an issue already. When I was sawing my boards, some of my cuts went wrong. Right now I have one 1x16 @ 14" and the second one is shorter, @13.5 approx.
What can I do so that my piece is not totally lopsided?
I since then researched on your blog and saw hoe to make a jig for cutting plywood... Good to know for next time, but what with now?
Also, would you suggest getting the guys at home depot to do every single cut for me in the future? I only have a circular saw...
Thanks!
Ilana
In reply to Fixing some issues by Ilana (not verified)
Ana White
Sat, 07/07/2012 - 21:46
Hi Ilana, great that you got
Hi Ilana, great that you got started!
For a first project, might not be a bad idea to ask the HD to do the board cuts :)
No worries on your cuts being off. Just make both ends the same at 13 1/2" and then take 1/2" off the 10 3/4" boards (make them 10 1/4". Then all you did was shorten the whole project by 1/2"
Good luck on the project!
Ana
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Wed, 09/18/2013 - 21:29
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Alex01
Wed, 11/13/2013 - 01:07
Pretty Locker
Nice Post