build your own kitchen cabinets with plans by Ana-White.com
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves)
3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves about 3" wide (for top supports)
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - use cheaper plywood here)
1x2s for face frames
1/4" plywood (for backs)
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails
3 sets of drawer slides with interior max length of 21-1/2" if attached to top support, 22-1/4" if attached to sides or back plywood (we used metaboxes)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 34 1/2" (side panels)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 16" (bottom shelf)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 16" (bottom supports)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3 1/2" (can vary) x 16" (top supports)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 17 1/2" (back)
2 - 1x2 @ 27"
2 - 1x2 @ 18"
2 - 1x2 @ 15"
DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4")
5 1/2" x 17 1/2" (drawer face)
11" x 17-1/2" (large drawer faces - you'll need 2)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Before you begin building - we highly recommend watching this video on making base kitchen cabinets:
Start by ripping your plywood down to size - for the side panels, we choose to rip at 22-1/4" wide for a finished cabinet, back to door front of 24". This width can vary - just make sure all of your cabinets are made the same depth.
Cut toekicks out with a jigsaw - we made a toekick pattern block and used it to cut out all the sides.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes along OUTSIDES of side panels - remember the two panels are in mirror - for attaching face frame in later steps.
Build your face frame separately, and then attach to front of cabinet with 3/4" pocket holes. One drawer opening is slightly bigger than the other - this is done on purpose so the drawer facess are the same size, with the bottom 1x2 rail centered between the drawers.
Check this video out on building and attaching face frames:
For our cabinets, we choose to use Metabox drawer slides, but it's really the same process as using standard drawer slides - you can check out how we built drawers here.
Build your drawers to fit your openings and drawer slides, and install drawers. Then attach drawer faces - shown above for full overlay doors/drawers - to the drawers.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.