Primitive Pie Cabinet Entertainment Center

Newest Video! I love creating, here's what I'm up to!

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 04/17/2015 - 09:25
| Print this plan

Build a simple media cabinet, free plans by

Hi everyone!!!

When I first started building furniture, I made alot of the "primitive style" furnishings.  As a beginner, I found primitive style furnishings easier to make for probably the same reasons that the early Americans did - simple, form follows function, using wood boards in easy widths.  I also loved the simple lines and easy style of primitive furnishings - it works will every decor, and takes paint and specialy finishes well.

So I was pretty excited when my friend Hillary from The Friendly Home asked me to team up with her to put together a primitive style media cabinet for her friend.  

I love how it turned out!

Hillary used oak boards, and narrowed up the depth to fit DVDs and the space.  

Hillary's favorite part of the cabinet is the finish.  I kinda love it too!

I'm sharing the plans below, but make sure you take a second to check out Hillary's building post here - she's got all the details on the finish, the mods, the hardware - you won't want to miss it!

See you back here!

XO Ana


Dimensions shown above


Shopping List

27 feet of 1x12 boards 1 full sheet of 1/4" thick plywood or other hardboard for the back 1 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long 48 feet of 1x3 boards 8 feet of 4-1/4" tall base moulding 4 sets of hinges 4 knobs or pulls

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

1 - 1x12 @ 72" (top) 2 - 1x12 @ 35-1/4" (sides) 1 - 1x12 @ 31-1/2" (center divider) 1 - 1x12 @ 69-1/2" (bottom shelf) 2 - 1x12 @ 34-3/8" (shelves) 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 71" x 36" (back) 1 - 1x2 @ 72" (top front trim) 2 - 1x3 @ 32-3/4" (side trim) 1 - 1x3 @ 71" (top header trim) 1 - 1x3 @ 66" (bottom footer trim) 1 - 1x3 @ 27-1/4" (center divider trim) 4 - 1/4" base moulding cut to fit Doors cut to fit

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Build the carcass of the cabinet. NOTE: Face frame in step 3 can be added with pocket holes hidden on insides if desired. You will need to drill those before assemble, 3/4" setting facing forward. Add the face frame before the back so you can fit the drill inside.

Step 2

Nail the back on the cabinet with 3/4" brad nails.

Step 3

Build the cabinet face frame separately with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then attach face frame to cabinet carcass with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 4

Add shelving inside cabinet. This can be done with Shelf Pins or fixed (use pocket holes on underside of shelves).

Step 5

Step 6

Measure openings and figure door sizes. I build inset doors 1/4" overall less in width and height (for an even 1/8" gap around all sides). Install doors so the gaps around all sides are even. Depending on the hinges you use you may need to add a magnetic clasp or similar to keep doors closed.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Sun, 08/11/2019 - 05:22

Ok I’ve read through the instructions a few times. I’m confused how there is overhang from the top front. You are using 1x12 for top and both sides. Then you add a face. The face would protrude out unless you are using a different size for the top than the sides. Or are you suppose to make the over handsome how when you build the carcass in step 1? 


Thank you for your help 

Free Plans Made Possible By Our Sponsors