Community Brag Posts

Garage shelves with doors

Submitted by CarolinaL on Thu, 01/11/2018 - 03:59

I have been wanting garage cabinets for a long time but couldn't afford them. When I saw these shelves I knew it would be easy to add side panels and create doors for the sections. The size is 8'x8' with the 4'x3' under the ceiling rack. I put a 2"x4" in the middle to divide each section, measured and cut doors from 5mm lauran plywood. I also cut the stiles and rails from the same material to give it interest but mainly to make it thicker to avoid warping as much as possible. I added 2"x4" to create a facing for the doors to rest on. Also used overlay hinges to simplify the hanging as much as possible. I was able to follow the design plan and the only thing I did was add a shelf at the bottom. The cleats were definitely not necessary, it's very sturdy. 

Making the doors

The first thing is to learn how to measure for cabinet doors. There are plenty of sites and YouTube videos showing how to correctly measure. If you are doing the same type of doors like I have, with no middle divider, then be sure to pay attention how to correctly measure for those instead of a single door.

The easiest way to make the doors will be getting 1/2 in sanded plywood and use a table saw to cut each door to size. Skip the shaker style trim and put the hardware on and be done. Make sure the hinges will be able to hold the weight of the door.

Unfortunately, I didn't have a table saw but I did have a router and a jig saw, and found a great video on YouTube on how to use a router to cut straight edges without a table saw. I measured out one door and used that outline to cut two identical doors. It turned out that each section was slightly a different width so I had to do two at a time. However, if you have a circular saw you can rig it to make a table saw and make a guide to rip the doors. It all depends on what tools you have available to you.  

I have a compact plunge saw and was able to cut the 3 inch strips for the shaker style with it. Honestly, that was the most tedious part and most time consuming by far. That also had to do with the fact that because the plywood is only 5mm thick I cut strips for both the front and the back to make it over 1/2 inch thick to help minimize warping and give the hinges something to grab.  

I used the miter saw to cut the stiles and rails to size and a 23 gauge nailer with 1/2 nails and glue to get them on the door. I glued and nailed the front and the back of each side at the same time because the nails are a bit longer than two pieces of plywood. I then turned it over and nailed the other side. The great thing about using a 23 gauge is that I didn't have to fill any holes because they are so small you can hardly see them at all. 

The last thing is to use your sander to ensure all of the pieces are even. I used a 60 grit and then followed it with a 220 where needed. 

If you want to avoid cutting the strips but still want to have the shaker style, Home Depot sells 1/4 thick Polystyrene flat moulding that will add vertially no weight to the door but the cost can easily add up if you have a lot of doors.

Lastly, if you are wondering why I got such thin plywood that ended up creating more work. The reason is because I wanted to save money on hardware and I didn't trust the inexpensive hinges I got off eBay would hold a heavy door for many years.

 

Estimated Cost
About $300 not including some tools I needed to buy anyway.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Interior satin
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Custom Modern Chicken Coop

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 08/30/2023 - 08:49

I made this coop twice as wide like Ana suggested since I have 4 chickens and wanted to make sure there was some extra wiggle room in case “chicken math” got the best of us. I made a nesting box to mount on the outside. I also used plywood for the sides like Ana did in the video. I installed a Run Chicken automatic door that opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. I added some hasps and clasps to make sure all my doors would close tightly. I put hardware cloth across the top before installing the roof panels. I stapled and buried hardware cloth around the perimeter for predator protection. I also spray painted the hardware cloth flat black so that it would be easier for us to see inside the coop. I stained the rest of the wood with Varathane Semi-Transparent stain, color “Carbon Gray.” I also added some roosts and cedar shingle siding for some extra protection during our New England winters at to match our house. Working 2-4 hours a day, off and on, with a bum shoulder and weak hands, this took me about a week! Thanks for the great plan, Ana!

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Pergola Swing

Submitted by grarob1956 on Thu, 04/23/2020 - 17:59

I saw this project on YouTube under Arbor Pergola Swing. It did not mention any specific detailed plans or cut list but it was enough to get me started. I began with (2) 10' 6" x 6" post. buried each 24" and cemented. I cut the post tops at 83" from ground line. The rafter consist of (2) 10' 2"x 6". I used the leftovers of the 6" x 6" post tops in the middle of my rafters to hang the swing from with 1/2 " eye bolt. Then I used (9) 2" x 2 " x 8' and cut each at 36" to finish off the top and (2) 2x6x8 for the 4 rafter supports. I drew out the designs of the rafters and top ends free hand and at made a template for the cuts with s jigsaw.

The entire cost including hardware minus the swing was $170. My wife had purchased the swing last Fall at a clearance for $40 brand new.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$170.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Valspar Duramax Special Walnut
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Chunky leg bedframe

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 02/12/2019 - 17:43

I got tired of sleeping on the floor like college kids, but I didn’t want to buy a junky particle board bedframe. My husband and I are novice woodworkers. Even still, we bought the lumber around noon and managed to finish the whole project in about 5-6 hours! We used a Kreg jig for the first time and it was pretty simple. I am really pleased with how this turned out, and I can’t wait to try more of Ana’s plans in the future.

Estimated Cost
$100 including the cost of pockethole screws and finishing nails.
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Paper Roll Dispenser

Submitted by vendo on Wed, 11/17/2021 - 10:44

This took me about 20 minutes! I love the look of it and that it can just be left out when the kids aren't doing art. A great little item to add to keep the kids busy and inspired. I made a couple of mods from the plan. I used glue and nails instead of pocket holes and I did that bottom board flat instead of on it's side. I also used a little bigger dowel, and bought two rolls of paper on Amazon for $14.I'm giving this to my daughter for her birthday with some fun art supplies, so I think it's a great gift idea for any occasion for those crafty people out there!

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Monika

Tue, 04/02/2024 - 06:09

Sometimes, when working with papers, you might need to convert file formats, right? So, I recently came across this website https://pdfflex.com/webp-to-png It's super handy for converting. It's been a real time-saver for me, especially when I need to tweak documents for printing or sharing. I'd desided to share in case it helps someone else out there too!

Haley Storage Bed

My husband and I were able to put this together over the course of two weekend days. Then it took me an eternity to paint/finish it. But we love it now and so does our little girl!

Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

[email protected] (not verified)

Wed, 09/14/2011 - 14:39

Your bed looks amazing!! Did you make the footboard taller?
I want to make this for my niece :)

Chernandez

Wed, 12/28/2016 - 15:12

This was an easy two day project that turned out great. My daughter loves it. I made the foot board taller to keep the mattress from sliding off. Thank you for the plans.

Petra's Doggie Day Bed

Submitted by Joni on Sat, 08/25/2012 - 10:33

Yes, my husband and I share our bedroom with 6 dogs and an occasional cat (or 4). Our older dog (Petra) has slept on our bed for over 10 years, and she's getting too old to jump anymore. We didn't want her to feel like she was getting kicked off the bed, so I made Petra her very own bed at the end of ours so that she wouldn't feel left out. I was inspired by MurdaRae's dog bed (http://ana-white.com/2012/06/doggie-daybed), and thought it was genius to use a toddler/crib bed. So I went looking for plans on Ana-White, and came up with a mixture between a couple of twin bed plans. I love that the plans are easy enough to modify my sizes, and come up with exactly the custom solution that I need. This was my first big project using Bri-Wax. The last one was kind of a disaster when the wax changed the stain color to something not-so-great. With this project, I learned to wait at least 2 weeks before attempting to wax it. I was blown away with the results. It is a beautiful subtle satin finish that feels great to the touch. Plus, I can easily touch up all the dog fingernail scratches that will inevitably occur. When I re-assembled the bed in my bedroom, I actually nicked it in a few places. No problem -- slap on some more Bri-Wax! My Bri-Wax was 11 years old, and pure liquid. I tossed it in the fridge (per Bri-Wax's recommendation), and it was as good as new. The only real problem I had with this project was leaking sap from one of the 4x4s. I'm still fighting this today. In talking with Rustoleum/Zinsser reps, they said that no sap could penetrate their "Seal Coat" shellac product. After 5 coats, the sap is still penetrating, but only if I turn it on it's side or upside down. I'm still baffled. I made the mattress cover out of a dog blanket, and made the cushions from some remnant fabric (suitable for dogs and weekly washing), so this was a fairly inexpensive project. It was a success because Petra slept in her bed from the fist night and loved that she had all the room to herself, and no boston terrorists (I mean terriers) attempted to bother her.

Estimated Cost
$65 for Wood, $60 for Crib Mattress, $7 for stain, $9 for Decorative Clavos
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Combination of Minwax Water-based stains: 6 parts Colonial Pine: 1 part American Walnut, followed 4-5 Coats Bri-Wax (Light Brown)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

spiceylg

Sat, 08/25/2012 - 18:41

You did an amazing job! Looks professional and at first glance, you definitely can't tell it's a dog bed.

StacieM

Sun, 08/26/2012 - 10:24

It matches the woods in your bedroom so well and looks great! Also, I love the bolster pillows around the edges. That is something I need to make for our dog bed. Thanks for sharing.

My incredible chicken coop and run!

This was my first attempt at building anything....ever. It was so incredibly fun and I certainly learned a lot. My 8 little chickens are loving their new home and I can't wait to build my next project!

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

GreenLaLa

Wed, 06/19/2013 - 11:51

Hello! Could you repost the picture / info on your chicken run? I keep getting "page not available" and I've been trying for days :O) I think I want to build that chicken shed (too big for 3 hens?? It's just so cute!) and a run like that to go with it! Thanks! Have a great day!

GreenLaLa

Wed, 06/19/2013 - 11:51

Hello! Could you repost the picture / info on your chicken run? I keep getting "page not available" and I've been trying for days :O) I think I want to build that chicken shed (too big for 3 hens?? It's just so cute!) and a run like that to go with it! Thanks! Have a great day!

Swing set

Submitted by lazyLiz on Wed, 02/29/2012 - 10:21

I've finished my swing but my porch don't have enough clearance so I built A frame stand for it.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
mahogany latex based exterior primer and paint in one
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Ashley Doucakis

Fri, 04/19/2013 - 15:37

I love the idea of adding the A-frame considering that where i live there are no real trees to hang it on and building a porch where one doesn't already exist is a pain in the butt! Lol. How wide do you think we could go before it starts compromising the frames integrity? And how much weight can it hold?

Modern Adirondack Chair, Super Sized

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 08/21/2020 - 10:39

Am a big fan of Ana's work, and have used several of her plans in prior builds including the more traditional Adirondack chairs. Those stayed with my old house, and I wanted something different for my new house. Really liked her Modern Adirondack design with the floating arm rest. However, plans are like recipes to me--a guideline. I wanted the back boards to run up and down, and I am a bit more robust than the lovely and petite Ms. White, so they would need to be wider after I built the first one at 19 1/2" wide per plan. The next three I made 22" wide and that worked well without throwing off the geometry and angles of the other parts. Since I ran the backboards up and down, I needed some cross beams for stability and to give an attachment point for the middle of the boards. Cut some 2x4s at 15" wide, drilled pocket holes in both ends, and attached in between the back supports with the pockets facing up to be hidden by the back boards. All of the 2x4s were leftover cut-offs from the houses being built in my neighborhood. Since the frames were free, I splurged and went with cedar boards for the backs and bottoms. With the wider frames, I had to use 1x12s ripped down to 10 3/4" to get the right look (about a board's width in between). Needed some color, so I painted the frames Teal Seaglass from Menards. Cedar was stained with a natural deck stain from Sherwin Williams. I experimented with salt paint (mixing unsanded grout with the paint) to give a heavily textured and weathered finish but this was unecessary--the wood was distressed enough and I am a terrible painter. It also toned down the color so I skipped that step and just went with 2 coats of plain paint. It looks like outdoor furniture should up close. As always, am pleased with Ana's plans. Thank you for doing all the hard work!

Estimated Cost
about $200 for all 4 chairs due to cedar and paint
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Paint - Pittsburgh matte exterior with Dutch Boy coloring Teal Seaglass
Stain - Sherwin Williams Superdeck stain, Natural finish
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Book Caddy

Submitted by KWJ on Wed, 08/21/2013 - 07:51

I built this little book caddy for my son's room. I used pocket holes to attach the horizontal slats as well as for making the 'X' pieces. I glued the bottom boards and used long (2.5") screws to attach the top horizontal pieces. I was really happy with the way it came together, once I figured out that I could use pocket holes on the horizontal main beams. I realized you just have to start at the top and work your way down, because starting at the bottom would mean blocking your access to the bottom of the other boards.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$35
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Rust-oleam polyurethane
Minwax Duo paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Farmhouse Writing Desk with Turned Legs

Submitted by kwildman on Mon, 01/07/2019 - 08:53

I modified the Small Old English Style Farmhouse Dining Table plan to build a writing desk.   I used five 1x6 boards for the top for a width of 27.5 inches.   I made my desk 56 inches in length.  I put the drawer on the long side like a pencil drawer.   I did use the legs that Ana recommended in the plan.   I love how it turned out.  I used dark walnut danish oil and dark wax for the finish.  

Estimated Cost
225
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
I used Watco dark walnut danish oil and Minwax dark paste wax.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

kwildman

Fri, 10/04/2019 - 21:46

Thank you!  I used Watco Danish oil and I used Minwax dark wax.  I've tried alot of different wax brands and I always come back to Minwax.  It dries the hardest in my opinion.

Pool Noodle Holder from DIY Planter Box

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 06/04/2022 - 06:58

I modified the plans for the planter box to make a holder for Pool Noodles. I made it 40" tall and used 4-4" fence pickets and 1-5.5" fence pickets. I used a 4" spacer and the openings worked out perfect. I stained inside and out since it would show with 2 coats of the solid stain. It is perfect! Thank you so much for the inspiration and plans!

Comments

Podium for My Wife's Classroom

This is my first try at building furniture. I've built larger things in the past like decks and a fort for my nephews, but never furniture. Even though I used the plans to build the main box, I did change up the bottom and added some new stuff. I added wheels to the bottom my wife could easily move it around her classroom. I didn't want to put a square base on it because I thought it might hit her ankles when she was standing close to it. So I sort-of notched it out to give an opening for her feet and I used some scraps to create a short shelf at the bottom. I also added more trim that the plans call for. I cut strips of the pine plywood for the base molding and topped it with quarter round. I used corner trim for the front corners, the self inside and the bottom notched shelf. I also used screen trim for the back of it. I think it came out nice and I've very pleased with it. I used 2 coats of Minwax PolyShades American Chestnut on it.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax PolyShades American Chestnut
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Pallirondack Laundry Basket Dresser

I showed my wife the Laundry Dresser featured on Ana White's website and she asked if I could make one for her, but not quite so tall. I also turned the orientation to fit our laundry room space. I used primarily oak from recycled pallets to build the Laundry Basket Dresser. She wanted a work space on top, so folded laundry, empty baskets, etc. all have a temporary resting place depending on the day. From start to finish, it took me about 6 hours. She plans to stain the piece at some point, but its already in use, so I'm not 100% sure that will ever happen until we move or something. ;-) Great idea and laundry room organization!

Estimated Cost
Half a box of screws
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Kathy in Pittsburgh (not verified)

Mon, 09/10/2012 - 10:22

I love the open sides, plus it makes it much more feasible to build with scraps repurposed wood, which I love. Thanks for the inspriation

payne.kj

Mon, 04/08/2013 - 08:48

Hi, do you have any kind of plans for how you did this or atleast dimensions? I think this one fits more of what my wife needs, but I'm pretty new to making anything.

nicholas_ftm

Sun, 06/14/2015 - 20:16

Soooo I made this according to the measurements and no laundry basket I find fit. Kind of dissapointed in the fact that this cool thing I just built doesn't have any baskets that will fit it. Any advice on finding a basket that fits?

jkread

Fri, 07/10/2015 - 20:56

I think the idea is to build it to fit the baskets you have or buy some and build around them.

Rustic X Hall Tree

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 01/27/2020 - 14:22

I built this scaled down version of Ana's Hall Tree to fit into a 3 foot wide space in my daughter's living room.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$55
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Whitewash
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project
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