Community Brag Posts

I love this workbench! I added casters so I can move it around the garage, outside, wherever it's needed. I just took 4 inches off the bottom of the legs. My hubby is admiring my handy work and planning on making one for himself.

Took the plans from Ana white and made my own twist to it! Came out awesome and the person loved it that I made it for! Kona stain on table top and Navajo white on the bottom. Did the same for benches and chairs to match! Thanks for the great instructions! 

Added kitchen and dining room storage by building bookcases / shelf units to fit under the peninsula breakfast bar overhang. It's the simplest possible "box with a toe-kick", loosely based on Ana's plans for a bookshelf and the closet master system.

Much of the "working time" was stain and finishing time. Actual cutting and assembly time was under 3 hours.

No dimensions: every breakfast bar is different.

1 - The boards were cut to fit under the overhang, with 1/8 or less clearance. Top and bottom of unit is between the upright pieces.

2 - Width of units was also cut to fit. One unit is the width of the lower section of countertop (appx 23 in), the taller section was divided into 2 equal units (appx 21 in)

Shelves were cut about 1/4" narrower than the insiude dimension of the unit, to allow for insertion and the shelf pegs.

3 - Toekick space cut to match the cabinet on the far side of the peninsula. Used a circular saw and then a hand saw to finish the corners.

4 - Drilled pocketholes in the top and bottom boards.

5 - Used Rockler's jig for drilling shelf pin holes in the 6 uprights. Oops! I should have drilled every possible hole. I drilled every other hole and don't have the shelf flexibility I really need.

6 - Stained and topcoated everything, let it dry.

7 - Assembled each shelf unit, using corner clamps and a carpenter's square to make sure it was square. The bottom shelf is screwed at the same level as the toe-kick.

8 - Slid units under the overhang, shimmed them firmly under the countertop.

9 - Added shelf pegs and shelves

DONE!

Doors could be added, using the hinges for inset doors on frameless cabinets.

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NOTES:
The units are backless. I considered nailing a 1/8 hardboard back onto them, but because the finished back of the peninsula is visible behind them, and they are shimmed into place to prevent slouching it was not needed.

Cost is low because we had some 1x12 boards in the attic. Already had the tools and stain from earlier projects. 3 1x12 x 6ft boards were new, the rest were salvage.

Ready to grow my own vegetables.

Jeff DeVries

Used square laundry baskets instead of regular rectangular baskets. The square ones aren't as deep but are a bit taller so I had to modify the plans. I added a backsplash and some wooden tags to the baskets to designate them for certain colors. I also added some decorative trim and finished the bottom in a gray stain and used white chalk paint for the top.

Thank you for the plans for this fence! So many sites tell you what you need to do to plan for a fence, but don't give you any dimensions, materials, etc.

I didn't do it exactly like your instructions, but close enough to give you all the credit!! I am a 45 year old woman, with only a little do-it-yourself experience. I went to the hardware store, and asked "what are these PH screws?" and felt a little stupid. But my friend Tanya and I built this fence this weekend, with a post level, stakes and string, a chop saw, two 18v drills,a sledgehammer, a string level and a sharpie! We are so proud of ourselves.

I still need to trim off the tops of the posts, and do a few little tweaks. Also, we did not dig post holes. We used oz-posts, and pounded them in with a sledgehammer, attached the wooden posts into the oz-posts with heavy-duty construction adhesive and 8 screws, and straightened them with a huge wood clamp. And next weekend, I'll be putting in raised flower beds along the bottom to cover the lower space. :-))

I built the storage step using my own measurements as it's designed for adults. It is used for reaching the very highest shelves in my floor-to-ceiling wardrobe system.
It was my first project using my jigsaw and am very happy with how it turned out.
I added some rubber non-slip mats stuck down so no one goes flying when stretching for clothes!
Have a look at my blog for more pictures and information.

So about a month ago I had planned for people to be over for a casual evening of story telling, snacking, casual beer drinking and the exchanging of a variety of craft beers. All in all, a good time, no biggie.

Fast forward a little bit after making this commitment, the roommate tells me he and his girlfriend are getting their own place and therefore moving out. Great! Now I don't have to put on pants when I wake up to pee at night.

Fast forward to the first of this month, he's moved out. Gone with him is much of the furniture and things in the house. Not really a big deal except now it looks like I live with nothing but a bed, a couch and some milk crates. Not the image I want conveyed to a group of people who are going to see where I live for the first time.

Of course maybe a more normal person would go buy some things to fill the gaps, unfortunately for a 24 year old making not nearly enough over minimum wage, that isn't an option. Besides, even if I could afford it, furniture markup makes me ill.

So I had two weeks to make enough furniture to make my house appear respectable with a limited budget. To my favorite medium it was, pallet wood.

Everything featured here is made with reclaimed pallet wood, leftover paint and leftover screws/nails/sandpaper.

Except for the beer bottle shelves which were simply painted the paint was all worn down to look aged by using worn out sanding pads on a random orbital sander(seriously, leftover sanding pads). They were all left that way then with the exception of the shelves for the glassware which were rubbed down with ebony stain.

I'm listing my time for all these at just 3-6 hours even though it took two weeks because the time was spread out between other projects at the same time and most nights I only had a couple hours to work on them after work. Plus the obvious time for paint to dry.

This is a mix the "Side-Street bunkbed" plan and the "How to Build a Loft Bed." I used "Spax" 3 inch wood screws to attach the side rails instead of bolts used in Side Street plan.  I used KregJig pocket holes for everything else. 

8x12 coop modified from your classic shed plans. 2/3 for the chickens, 1/3 for storage.

by Harmony Munson

I've thought for a while about building a bed for our dogs, but wasn't sure where to start. We had an extra crib mattress so I set out to find a toddler bed that would work. I decided the Lydia Toddler Bed plan would work best. It doesn't look anything like it, but it was a great starting point.

First, I got rid of the canopy and the decorative side pannels. I also raised the bed 12 inches. (The hope is to add a rug on the floor underneath as sort of a "bottom bunk") The lumber store didn't have 2x2s so I used 2x3s for the legs. I also only used two 1x6s at the head and foot of the bed. They are seperated by 1" because when I got home, I realized they were actually 1x5 (RUDE).

All in all, it turned out exactly as I had hoped and the dogs love it! GOODBYE stinky dogbeds!

**Photo 1: Just finished building--the slats weren't screwed down yet.
**Photo 2: Deacon is testing out his new digs! See the stinky dogbed underneath?YUK!
**Photo 3: Dog Bed Completed! Mac & Deacon love it!