DIY Play Mud Kitchen
Thank you! My favorite & first is from your mud kitchen! I put in running water!😂 For the GrandLuvs!”
@penny.vanderlugt
Thank you! My favorite & first is from your mud kitchen! I put in running water!😂 For the GrandLuvs!”
@penny.vanderlugt
Thanks for the simple plans Anna, they worked out great!. I resized the table to make maximum use of the material, still within the same quantity you specified in your plans. I glued the legs along the lengths of the table, and kept the table top and shelf screwed in, for easy dismantling, if necessary.
Finally I added pop down heavy duty wheels allowing me to move the table (not shown in this pic) easily. When the wheels are not being used they pop up, making the table very stable. The height of the table is about 1/2” lower than the table saw, making it an ideal outfeed table as well.
Great design, and fun build.
I recently built this for a fundraiser for a friend, who suffered from a stroke, people loved it.
The project was used using the same plans but I extended the floor to be 6 feet wide vice 4 feet the additional 2 feet provided the perfect amount space I wanted. I also added an extra windows to get cross ventilation. I also insulated the coop and put paneling on the walls and lenolium on the floors. I dropped the back wall sheeting 1.5 inches for additional airflow since the shed doesn't have a ridge vent. The plans are easy to follow and easily adaptable.
Thu, 07/02/2020 - 11:29
Great job! We are getting ready to build a coop for our chickens which arrive in 3 weeks!
I built this outdoor daybed to add a cozy and inviting space to my backyard. It was a fairly easy build, which I managed to tackle by myself. Head over to the blog for more details.
My wife had begged and begged for something like this, so I took the plunge. This was my first build and I’m getting the itch to try other things! We built the ship lap wall and sign together as well!
I went from a 6 x 8 Harbor Freight Greenhouse to this one 10 x 12. I added a few windows...
This is my more traditional take on the modern craft table (I guess that means it isn't technically "modern"!). We call it the "Lego Table" at our house. I doubled up the ends like others have so that my two daughters can have their own sides. My wife asked that the there be backs on the side shelves so that items aren't pushed off. I also added trim around the tabletop and molding to give it a bit more traditional appearance. Finally, I made the shelves adjustable.
I recently published my first foldable farmhouse table last week here: http://ana-white.com/2013/06/foldable-farmhouse-table The first one I made was very heavy because I used 2x6 tops and 4x4 legs. I decided to make another one that would be lighter and easier to transport. The plans are basically the same just instead I used 1x6 for the top and put 2x4s together for the legs. I also shorted the length by about a foot. The only issue with making the table shorter length is that the legs don't fold completely flush. You could easily make the legs short enough to fold flush, but then the table was a little too short from the ground up for us. The same as before I simply used kreg joints to join the top boards together. I then made a 2x4 frame and attached it to the bottom. I made each of the legs separately by joining 2x4s together and sanding everything down. Everything was stained before putting the legs on using Miniwax Dark walnut stain. I used 2 coats of Miniwax water based clear coat to seal it. A notch was cut out on each of the bottom 2x4 supports on the legs and I glued in a small piece of wood cut to size. These are so I can put in a 2x4 support board under the table so that the legs do not fold in on themselves when it is standing up. The legs are just attached using door hinges you can buy in packs in the hardware section. Be careful when screwing into the 1x6 top not to use too long of screws or else you will over screw and have them come through into your table top. Table design was by Amber Veatch Designs and photographed by Andi Mans Photography
Tue, 07/07/2015 - 06:41
We have built something very similar and we have a good bit of wobble at the top, even though the stretcher down the center of the table is holding solid in there and secred with clasps. Were thinking of some sort of sliding pin into the top of the leg to the apron. Anyone run into this before?
Entire wall fireplace built-in!
Loving this furniture! We modified it slightly by raising the height of the couches. Added some height and a slight tilt in the back. The chairs are super comfortable as the plans are done. We used 6” 25x25 cushions. We plan on staining soon.
Jaime Sallis
Am a big fan of Ana's work, and have used several of her plans in prior builds including the more traditional Adirondack chairs. Those stayed with my old house, and I wanted something different for my new house. Really liked her Modern Adirondack design with the floating arm rest. However, plans are like recipes to me--a guideline. I wanted the back boards to run up and down, and I am a bit more robust than the lovely and petite Ms. White, so they would need to be wider after I built the first one at 19 1/2" wide per plan. The next three I made 22" wide and that worked well without throwing off the geometry and angles of the other parts. Since I ran the backboards up and down, I needed some cross beams for stability and to give an attachment point for the middle of the boards. Cut some 2x4s at 15" wide, drilled pocket holes in both ends, and attached in between the back supports with the pockets facing up to be hidden by the back boards. All of the 2x4s were leftover cut-offs from the houses being built in my neighborhood. Since the frames were free, I splurged and went with cedar boards for the backs and bottoms. With the wider frames, I had to use 1x12s ripped down to 10 3/4" to get the right look (about a board's width in between). Needed some color, so I painted the frames Teal Seaglass from Menards. Cedar was stained with a natural deck stain from Sherwin Williams. I experimented with salt paint (mixing unsanded grout with the paint) to give a heavily textured and weathered finish but this was unecessary--the wood was distressed enough and I am a terrible painter. It also toned down the color so I skipped that step and just went with 2 coats of plain paint. It looks like outdoor furniture should up close. As always, am pleased with Ana's plans. Thank you for doing all the hard work!
Fri, 08/21/2020 - 16:59
I absolutely love how the back was done!! Thank you so much for sharing!
Ana doesn’t have a plan for a catio but she does for a playhouse and a cedar shed made from 2x2’s. I sort of combined my knowledge from making her plans over the last 10 years and came up with this for my cats. It was fun to make!! My baby kitten is loving it. I used garden fencing and stapled it to the outside and pocket holes for the walls. I made each wall individually like the playhouse then connected them once in place.
Wed, 06/09/2021 - 12:36
Thank you for sharing! My daughter wants a cat for her birthday but it can't be inside due to our son's allergies. Roaming outside isn't really an option because we have coyotes. We are going to use one of these in combination with an underground electric fence.
Great plans - thanks so much! Started with two chairs, and kept going...
MODS: Once built, we felt there wasn't enough back support, so added a 2x4 then 4x4 on top. Also added a 2x2 in back of the seat bed, so our 25" x 25" seat cushions didn't float around.
Recommend paint gun vs. painting by hand.
We modified the plans for the Camp Loft Bed to accommodate a full size mattress. We also extended the platform so that the bed spread wall to wall in the bedroom. Since the platform was extended, we added a short railing to prevent falls. The height was pushed up to make it taller than the junior size of the original design. This way we were able to place a desk and add 2 pine shelves underneath the head of the bed.
We added a board along the long side at the bottom to take out some wiggling. The bed itself still seemed a little shaky until we attached the platform and now it is rock solid. We have had 1-2 adults and multiple kids up there at the same time with no problem.
The bed itself could have been built in a weekend. However, the time it took to sand, stain, and clear coat added many more hours. Those hours were definitely worth it for a finished product.
Fri, 10/02/2015 - 10:43
Thank you so much for posting this. My oldest wants a loft bed, but has a full right now. I am building my 2 youngest the junior loft this fall and the oldest was jealous. I was scared to build one. Afraid it would not hold up. Thank you for showing that it does. Great job!!!
Used the plans for the twin bed, just added the difference in mattress size to the measurements. Pretty simple really. Used a cam lock centered above the door and a sawtooth picture hanger on the inside as a locking mechanism.
Tue, 09/30/2014 - 14:16
Hello,
I have been scowering the internet... I too would like to have my murphy bed raised off of the ground and be a full size murphy bed. But everytime I try to do "adjustments" and get "creative" it ends in disaster. I am better at following instructions. Is there anyway that you could give me the exact measurements for your fullsize bed and let me know how it is that you propped the bed up at the end?
Thank you.
Thu, 06/18/2020 - 20:22
I would also love the exact measurements for a double...is there a copy of the plan for that?
thank you
Weekend swing project
Tue, 05/07/2019 - 10:42
We don't currently have this plan available, although I'd be happy to draw it with the author's permission.
I have linked a few plans above that could be used to create this plan. Just make sure you bury the arbor uprights underground on concrete pier posts or similar (like building a fence)
My closet system is four separate units that I butted up together and attached to the wall with a "decorative" 2x4 railing around the entirety of the closet. The main unit looks the closest to the real design but is 8 feet long and 8 feet tall to avoid extra cutting of boards. The smaller unit only has one area for hanging up clothes and is around 5 feet long which is just the length of the wall. I also built a unit for holding sheets and towels and another for my wife's shoes.
The plans are really easy to follow but I would suggest a few things:
-Do stain and boards before cutting; this would have been a nightmare otherwise.
-If you use the metal clothing rods (if I could go back in time I would have used wooden dowels) make sure that you put those in before you attach any boards between the support structures. I ended up having a 35 inch gap instead of a 36 inch gap and it killed my momentum.
-I made mine 8 feet tall because it was less to cut and then re-stain; time wise it probably was a scratch cause I had to build it in place and at the end it was very tight to work in the space.
DIY Greenhouse by Trenton Kirby on Facebook!