How to build a sink base cabinet - free plans from Ana-White.com. Part of the Momplex Vanilla Kitchen Plans.
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves)
3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves (for top supports)
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - we used cheaper plywood here)
1x2s for face frames
1/4" plywood (for backs)
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails
edge banding for shelves
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 34-1/2" (side panels)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 28" (bottom shelf)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 28" (bottom supports)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3-1/2" (can vary) x 28" (top supports)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 29-1/2" (back)
3 - 1x2 @ 27"
2 - 1x2 @ 30"
1 - 1x2 @ 21"
3/4" plywood @ 22" x 27-3/4" (measure and adjust to fit shelf pins/edge banding)
DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4")
5 1/2" x 29-1/2" (drawer face)
2 - 22-1/2" x 14-1/2" (door)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Start with the SAME side panels that you use on all of the base cabinets. But remember that the side panels should be made up in mirror - meaning you will place 3/4" pocket holes on outsides (for attaching face frames in later steps) and shelf pin holes (for adjustable shelves) on insides, with the toekick at the bottom front.
Attach the two bottom supports to the side panels, using the 5" wide strips of plywood. These guys will get covered up with toekick material or hidden under cabinet, so don't worry about using cheaper plywood or placing pocket holes hidden.
Remember to drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching bottom shelf, about every 6-8 inches.
Top supports are attached as shown. You may wish to use a smaller board at the top front support depending on your sink type/size - or when you cut out for your sink, just plan on cutting through that top support.
You could also just leave out the top front support, but you will need to be extra careful when attach the face frame in later steps to make sure the sides are still 28" appart.
Build the face frame seperately, using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then attach to front of cabinet through the predrilled pocket holes on sides and top using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. The bottom won't have enough room to fit a drill in, so we nailed and glued along the bottom.
We used full overlay doors (purchased from Cabinet Now) in the above sizes. When cabinets are assembled, this leaves a 1/2" reveal of face frame between all doors and drawers. For these door sizes you will need 1-1/4" Concealed Euro Hinges, 2 per door.
For the false drawer front on the sink, simply nail and glue in place from back.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.