4x4 Truss Beam Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 09/13/2018 - 10:03
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build the truss beam farmhouse table! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

ana white truss beam table farm style

This beautiful solid wood table is sturdy and substantial.  Built using off the shelf lumber, we love the truss beam detailing and angled legs.  It's a beautiful table that will add that rustic look to your dining room.

We also have available the matching Truss beam bench plans

farm table benches

My friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic loved our Providence Table, but wanted a bigger version for indoor use, built using real 4x4 beams.

Here's from Whitney:

"Oh how I LOVE a great DIY dining table.  Restoration Hardware wants $3000 for theirs, and I built mine for around $100 in wood.  This table is big and beautiful, and I can't wait to serve my entire family at it!"

There's a ton of different ways this table could have been put together, but Whitney choose to use a Kreg Jig HD.  Because the 4x4 is so big, it won't fit in the jig, so Whitney's solution was to use a clamp.  

 

Whitney has provided lots more details on how she built this table and lots more pictures right here - please take a second to stop over and check it out!

 

And of course, the plans follow!

 

Enjoy!

XO Ana

Dimensions
truss beam table dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

5 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long or stud length

2 - 2x10 @ 12 feet long (tabletop boards - can be cut in half at store for easier transport)

1 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long (cut breadboards out of this board - can also use a 2x8 or 2x12)

Whitney used 2 1/2" Kreg HD Screws and a Kreg HD to build this table

You'll also need 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to put the tabletop together and to attach the tabletop to the aprons

Cut List

2 - 4x4 @ 35"

4 - 4x4 @ 25 3/8" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 28 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends are NOT parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 65"

2 - 4x4 @ 26 1/8" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 2x4 @ 65"

4 - 2x10 @ 68 1/2" (tabletop boards)

2 - 2x10 @ approx 37" (cut breadboard ends to fit)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build two of the leg sets out of the 4x4s. Once you get one built, built the other on top of it so they match perfectly.

Step 2

Attach the two legs together with the center beams.

Step 3

Position the cross supports inside the table and attach to the top and bottom beams.

Step 4

Add the 2x4 aprons underneath for added support.

NOTE: We kept these flat to keep the look the Shanty girls were after, but to make this table stronger (especially if you were modifying the table to be longer) I recommend attaching the 2x4s vertically instead of flat. If you go this route, make sure you predrill 1 1/2" pocket holes facing upward in the aprons to attach the tabletop in the next step.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

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Comments

Ravin1keys

Wed, 01/24/2018 - 05:33

My space isn't big enough for the actual length in the plans. How do I go about altering the plans for a shorter table ? 

New to building furniture. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated. :)

AndyAlva

Tue, 02/20/2018 - 12:47

This plan is incredible. I love the simplicity of the build both in the aesthetic and the actual process. My only beef, though, was the lack of direction with pocket holes. I ended up adding four extra PHs per 4x4 when I noticed the beams slightly bending away from each other when under weight. Something to potentially note, S2C. Otherwise, everything was easy and inexpensive! Keep killing it, gals! 

aderosa

Tue, 03/27/2018 - 07:44

This table is my next project and I'd like to get started soon.  I am debating on the wood.  My husband wants me to find some good wood, like at a specialty lumber shop.  But I was planning on using pine from Lowe's for a few reasons:  it's convenient for me to get, if I screw up a cut it's not too expensive to get a new piece, it saves money to use pine, and if I sand it well enough it can look very nice.  Thoughts on type of wood for this table....

Thanks!

Brian Famous

Tue, 03/27/2018 - 20:13

My outdoor version of this table, which I built about 4.5 years ago, is made from cedar.

http://famousartisan.com/outdoor-farmhouse-dining-table/

It cost me about $400, but was well worth it.

 

I wouldn't recommend cedar for indoor use though.  I'd also, personally, skip on pine.  It will dent, scratch, and just generally not wear well over time.  I think you might be able to get away with it for the base (particularly if you're open to painting it), but would use a better hardwood for the top. 

Though, if it's your first table build, doing a pine top first may be a good idea.  You can always replace it in a few years and wouldn't have that much money invested in it.

bclute

Fri, 05/18/2018 - 13:15

I am not a professional builder at all, but I will say I have done a couple projects with the pine from HD or Lowes.  We had a farmhouse table custom built and I am pretty sure the guy just bought his wood from big box as well.  The table was sturdy and looked great, but after a couple months the wood started to shrink and/or dry up.  Spots that were covered when he stained, now show and are unstained. Not sure if better wood will fix these issues.

erniegeneva

Mon, 10/14/2019 - 18:22

Thank you for the plans to this table.  I used a mix of Kreg, biscuit, and mortise and tenon joinery to assemble the parts.  Also used a router, jointer and planer to mill the boards prior to assembly.  I've made the table in cedar, douglas fir, pine, and now oak.   

rico

Mon, 10/28/2019 - 09:34

Truss is backwards.  FYI

I am a concrete furniture fabricator and made this base for a customer for a concrete dining table.  This design probably suffices for a wooden top but if you are making something heavier reverse the 45 degree supports.  The weight from the center of the table needs to be carried down to the legs, not the center of the bottom 4x4 stringer.   Aesthetically the plans might look nicer reversed but as a former general contractor I couldn't bring myself to build a backwards truss even if my top wasn't 400 pounds.  That said, as designed here the two 45's do provide the the second function of sheer bracing (think rocking from end to end) so you want them installed securely.