A pretty console table featuring cubby like shelves that you can make with standard lumber. This step by step plan has everything that you need to do it yourself console table. Features two drawers and is inspired by Pottery Barn Cynthia Console Table.
2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x12 @ 12 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1/2 Sheet of 1/4" plywood
11" drawer slides (available online)
2 - Knobs
2 - 1x12 @ 29 1/4" (Sides)
1 - 1x12 @ 41 1/2" (Top)
1 - 1x12 @ 36" (Bottom Shelf)
1 - 1x12 @ 25 3/4" (Center Divider)
2 - 1x12 @ 17 5/8" (Shelves)
1 - 1/4" Plywood @ 37 1/2" x 30" (Back)
2 - 1x4 @ 11 1/4" (Drawer Slide Spacers - Cut to width of 1x12s)
1 - 1x4 @ 37 1/2" (Footer Front)
2 - 1x2 @ 24 1/4" (Side Trim)
1 - 1x2 @ 37 1/2" (Top Trim)
1 - 1x2 @ 34 1/2" ( Center Trim)
1 - 1x2 @ 41 1/2" (Top Front)
PLUS - Drawer cuts, see in plan
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
I've included pocket holes in the diagrams for those of you with a Kreg Jig. You can also use countersunk screws with glue, or even finish nails, as this cabinet is fully framed.
Now the bottom shelf. It sits 2 3/4" from the bottom.
Mark the placement of the center divider and attach in place.
You will need a pocket hole jig to make these shelves fixed. But certainly, you could use shelf pins to make adjustable shelves. Here's a great tute on how you can use pegboard as a guide for drilling your shelf pin holes.
These are for your drawer guides. Use either 1 1/4" screws or nails to attach to the sides as shown in the diagram.
What really makes a cabinet like this one is the cutout footer. Use the diagram above to help you cut a pattern from the footer and attach. You can also start by attaching the footer, and then cut the footer out afterwards.
Use 2" finish nails and wood glue to attach the side trim.
Now the header. Attach to the center divider as well.
And now the drawer trim. You will need to either use pocket holes from the back or 2" screws and glue from the sides, outside to secure trim in place.
And finally the top front. Attach in place with glue and finish nails.
You will need to build two drawer boxes as shown above. Build the drawer boxes and attach 1/4" plywood leftover to the bottom. Don't worry about the plywood falling off - the drawer slides will hold it on.
Your drawers should be built to fit your cabinet. Be aware that lumber can differ in width AND thicknesses, so you should always build to the cabinet. Standard drawer slides require 1/2" clearance on each side of the drawer, so make your drawers 1" less than the overall interior opening - use the diagram above as a guide.
Install drawers into the cabinet as shown above with the drawer slides. Here's a tute on the type of slides you should use and also how I install a drawer. Remember that the drawer box needs to sit 3/4" inset from the face frame to allow for the drawer faces (see next step).
Now here's the fun part, cut your drawer faces to fit the openings, and center of the drawers. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails (careful about the hardware locations) and glue. Then remove drawer and attach faces to drawer boxes with 1 1/4" screws from the inside.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.