Featuring three drawers, one cupboard and a large changing area, this changing table will meet the needs of your new baby, while still looking beautiful. Works with the rest of the Madeline Changing Wall. Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos.
2 Sheet of 3/4″ MDF or 3/4″ A1 Plywood, cut into 1×16 boards
3 1/4″ Floor trim or base moulding
Shelf Pins (for adjustable shelves)
Cutting List for Box
Work on a clean level surface. Use necessary safety equipment and precautions. Always check for square after each step. If you are working with MDF, use drywall screws and predrill the entire distance of you screw shaft to avoid splitting the MDF. Always predrill and countersink your screws. Mark joints on both sides of the joint so you know where the joint is and where to fasten the joint. Keep outside edges flush. Do not forget the glue
THIS IS AN ADVANCED PLAN and will be easy to make a mistake. Please do not attempt as a first project.
Build the Box. Begin by attaching the inner dividers together, as shown above. Start on the inside and work outward. It always is a good idea to mark out your joints on both the inside and the outside of your boards so you know where to line up your boards, and where to fasten. Also in this step, if you would like to add a shelf to the right compartment, cut the shelf (or shelves) at 15″ from 1×16 scraps. You can also attach later using shelf pins to create adjustable shelves. Remember that your boards are 3/4″ thick. Use 2″ screws and glue.
Back. Square up your project and add the back. The easiest way is to use lots of glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails (either with your pneumatic nailer set on a lower pressure setting to keep the nails from shooting through) or with a good ole hammer. You can use the scraps from the back as your door and drawer face rails and stiles.
1×2 Inner Boards. Begin by building the top drawer divider system by fastening the blue, green and pink boards together. Use 2″ screws (you won’t need many). Then fasten the Green and Pink boards to the box, usine 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Fasten the boards from underneath to hide your screws. Don’t forget the bottom board!
Base Moulding. Cut your bottom moulding and attach, using 1 1/4″ nails and glue. Then cut out the moulding as shown above using a jigsaw.
Small Top Drawers
Because these drawers are so small, I have decided to not add drawer slides to the drawers. If you would like to add drawer slides, you would need to build the drawer 1″ less on the sides to account for a 1/2″ side mount drawer slide. Build 2 Drawers.
Construct your drawer by first fastening the back to the bottom using 2″ screws. Then fasten the sides to the bottom and the back using 2″ screws and glue. Then attach the face. I like to fit the drawer into the drawer housing without the face attached, then line the face up with the drawer and fasten in place centering the face on the opening.
Large Bottom Drawers
These drawers are quite a bit larger, and you will need to use drawer slides. I have designed these drawers with undermount slides to make them easier to install, but you could also use side mount slides. You would then need to make your drawer 1″ less wide to accommodate 1/2 clearance side mount slides.
1. Drawer Face. Build your drawer face as shown above. Use glue. Clamp and let dry flat, stacked on top of each other, on a level surface, with a heavy object on top.
Drawer Box. First cut your drawer bottom using a 1×16 @ 21″, and then trim the 1×16 down to a finished size of 21″ x 14″. By doing this, you will get a more square drawer bottom. Then fasten the back to the bottom using 2″ screws, then the sides. Use glue. Mount the faceless drawer onto the undermount drawer slides. Push the drawer all the way into the drawer housing, adjust so that the faceless drawer is inset 3/4″. Set the face on the drawer box and screw in place, centering on the opening.
Build the Large Door Face as you did the large drawer faces.