Modern Farm Table

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Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 11/23/2009 - 11:59
Difficulty
Beginner
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This easy to build modern farm table plan will add that touch of rustic modern to your contemporary space. Plans also available for matching modern farm bench and square modern farm table. By Ana-White.com Reader submitted photos.

grey modern farm table
modern farm table

30" High x 66" long x 32" wide (approximate)

Preparation

Shopping List

6 - 2x6 boards (make sure these boards are VERY straight) (about $2.50 each)

5 - 2x2 board (under tabletop supports) (about $1 each)

2 - 2x4 boards (about $1 each)

2 1/2" wood self tapping screws

Sandpaper, ranging from coarse to fine

Wood Filler

Stain or Paint of choice

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

A) 4 - 2x6 cut at 30" (Legs)

B) 2 - 2x2 cut at 33" (Inside End Supports)

C) 2 - 2x4 @ 63" (Side Apron)

D) 2 - 2x4 @ 25" (End Apron)

E) 7 - 2x2 cut at 33" (Under tabletop supports)

F) 6 - 2x6 cut at 63" (Tabletop pieces)

Cutting Instructions

It is very important that you measure the width of your boards and make sure they are 5 1/2" wide (tabletop boards) otherwise, your aprons could be short or long. See the Square Modern Farm Table Plans for a tutorial on how to build the tabletop first with pocket hole screws, and then attach the legs and aprons. That way you can adjust your aprons as necessary.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Start by taking 2 of the leg pieces, A and marking 1 1/2" down from the top, and 1 1/2" in from the outer edge. Then screw one of B, the outside end support, to the two legs as shown above. Do the same for the other set of legs.

Step 2

Now add the side aprons, C, as shown above, screwing into the end support, B. Also, screw through the outside of A, the legs, into the end edges of C, the side apron. Now is a good time to check for square. If you do not know how to check for square, see the HOW-TO section for a tutorial.

Step 3

Now add the end aprons, D, screwing into B, the end supports. Again, check for square.

Step 4

Measure down 1 1/2" down from the top of the side apron, and mark all the way down the length of the apron. This will be the top side of the tabletop support pieces, E. Then mark every 6" and place a board E, keeping the top edge 1 1/2" below the top of the table, as shown above. Do not worry about the last support piece not being exactly 6" from the end - this does not matter. Make sure your project is square.

Step 5

Step 6

Screw pattern for the tabletop pieces shown above.

Step 7

Flip the table over on it's top and predril through all the 2x2 support pieces, drilling two holes per tabletop piece, per support piece. You will drill a total of 108 holes. Screw the top to the 2x2 support pieces through the predrilled holes.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill holes with putty and finish as desired. If you are staining the table, you may wish to fill the screw holes after staining, as wood putty does not stain the same color as natural wood.

Comments

Jeff (not verified)

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 14:02

I'm going to try my wife into letting me make this. But I do have one question that I can't seem to figure out.

The plans calls for six 2' x 6' board. On the cut list, A 4 - 2 x 6 cut at 30" so that leave four 2' x 6' boards left. But cut list F, it calls for 6 - 2 x 6 cut at 63" for tabletop. I can't quite figure out the match here. How I get six pcs cut at 63" each with only four 2 x 6 remaining? I know I'm missing something here. Can someone help?
Thanks
Jeff

Jeff (not verified)

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 14:40

I think I just answered my own question above, can't believe I didn't see get it.

Tiffany n (not verified)

Wed, 07/04/2012 - 17:58

I am looking for the dimensions to change the table to seat 8 people. Where can I find that? I can't wait to get started!

Brian Dysart (not verified)

Fri, 11/23/2012 - 17:40

I was wondering, what is the thickness are you using for the 2x6, 2x2, 2x4 boards? 1"?

Thanks

Kamilyn

Mon, 01/21/2013 - 21:04

I'm as beginner as they get as is my husband. We've been attempting to build the Modern Farm Table. Those instructions lead me to use the SQUARE Modern Farmhouse Table to build the table-top first with the kreg jig (I bought the kreg jig jr). I've struggled as I really need things spelled out for me.
Here are my questions so far:
I've been confused going between the 2 instructions. Modern Farm Table materials list had me buy 2-1/2" screws, but Sq. Mod table uses 2, 2-1/2, & 3" screws. Can I just stick with the 2-1/2" screws?
Any idea how many screws I will need for a project like this? I only bought a small amount and now realize I need much more.

When using the Kreg Jig Jr to join my 2x6 table top pieces together...how many screws should I use...& about how far apart? I have the Kreg's adjustable sides as far as they adjust (1-1/2")...will 2-1/2" screws be good?

And last question is about attaching the aprons to the table top. Is that also done with the Kreg Jig Jr from the under-inside of the table (bottom of the table top pieces into the aprons)? I'm having a hard time figuring this part out and have this image in my head of about 24 visible screws drilled in from the outside of the apron into the table top pieces, which is how I understand it from Step 5 in the Modern Farm Table instructions. That doesn't seem like it would look normal though, so I'm sure I'm confused.

Which screws should be "visible" from the outside of the table?...Maybe just the 4 screws in each leg?

We did make a bench first...and it's a lovely first project with all sorts of noticeable mistakes & lessons learned, but still happy with it!

crafty girl

Thu, 02/07/2013 - 07:02

Hello, I'm in love with this table and really REALLY want to make it. Our friend is going to let us use his garage and his tools because we live in an apartment and don't have the space or tools to do it with. The only thing is he doesn't own a Kreg Jig. I'm just wondering if this is something we just absolutely HAVE to have or if any of you have made this table without one. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated because my husband and I are both furniture-making virgins:) Thanks!

johnnywharris

Sat, 04/05/2014 - 05:51

Hi there. Very excited to try this. What kind of wood did you use? Is the Kreg Jig totally necessary (meaning are the pocket holes necessary)?

Thanks!

Johnny

johnnywharris

Sat, 04/05/2014 - 06:33

Hello,

You say "It is very important that you measure the width of your boards and make sure they are 5 1/2" wide " But if these are 2x6 boards. How will they be 5.5 inches wide. Clearly I am missing something.

Thanks!

Johnny

JoanneS

Sat, 04/05/2014 - 07:12

Hi Johnny,

Most of the standard sized lumber you find is actually a little bit smaller than the measurement it is "tagged" by. For example, a 2x6 is actually going to be about 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" wide. The 2x6 number is the size of the wood before drying, but it shrinks down from the drying process. In this plan, if your 2x6 happened to be a little different in width it would impact the width of the table, and you would need to adjust your measurement slightly on the end aprons and the support pieces that go underneath the table top.

This link (Ana's 'getting started' page) has a good explanation about what you'd find in the standard lumber sizes.

http://ana-white.com/2011/03/how-do-i-get-started

Good luck with your project!
:) Joanne

monicadcooper

Wed, 06/11/2014 - 13:55

I am also looking for the bench plans and can't seem to find them. Can you send me the link please?

Thanks a million,
Monica

monicadcooper

Wed, 06/11/2014 - 14:03

I am also looking for the bench plans and can't seem to find them. Can you send me the link please?

Thanks a million,
Monica

Cbrides

Sat, 01/17/2015 - 11:41

Hi i am going to build this this weekend and was wondering if i changed the legs to 4x4 what would be my new measurements for plans. Thank you any help would be greatly appreciated.

inouryellowhouse

Mon, 07/06/2015 - 07:40

We recently finished building this table and two matching benches and are working on finishing. Now, we are certainly not experts by any means and are just proud to have a piece of furniture that stands and holds weight! LOL!
Our current problem: we had a lot of issues finding lumber to match the required dimensions exactly (small town Texas hardware stores, y'all....not the best) so we ended up with small gaps between almost all of our slats on the tabletop and bench seats. What that means is food and dirt will collect in those crevices. We thought the poly would most likely build up and seal the gaps but that is not working. We tried putting painter's tape under the cracks and pouring poly down into them but that is not working either.
Does anyone have a solution for filling the cracks??

Raygan

Tue, 10/27/2015 - 13:34

Why is a Kreg Jig listed on the tools list? Maybe I'm missing something, but I didn't see any pocket holes in the plans. Do I actually need this, or is the Jig just on the tools list for everything they do? 

reedmccashland

Tue, 11/17/2015 - 09:36

Hi Ana - 

In looking at these plans, it looks like there are three screws being put through the top and two more through the bottom?  Wouldn't putting two screws through the bottom per undertable support work just as well?  It would save from having holes in the top that need puttied and sanded.  Thanks!

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