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Rustic X Coffee Table Top

I was wondering if anyone could elaborate on what the plans mean by connecting the 2x6s for the top? Do you drill pocket holes along every 2x6 and then connect them together one at a time?

If anyone could post a picture from the underside so i could further understand this that would be great!

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coachtom

Mon, 08/18/2014 - 20:32

Lay them out the way you want. Mark the approximent center and drill holes accordingly. I just finished mine tonite and put a glass top on it and it came out awesome.

quinonesm

Thu, 08/21/2014 - 11:16

Hi Bubba - I just completed mine 2 weekends ago and used the same 2 x 6 planks because the 2 x 10's are scarce (in Cedar) or expensive around here. What I used is a nifty tool used for Deck installations that allow you to mount your planks with no visible holes or need for wood filler. It's called the Camo tool and the one I used is the Marksman pro model which provides for accurate 3/16" spacing between planks (since mine is an outdoor table) for drainage. There is a version of the tool that uses 1/16" for spacing and if I were to do it again, I probably would use that for spacing between planks as it's only water we're trying to allow to drain.

http://www.camofasteners.com/hidden-deck-fastening-system/

http://www.homedepot.com/p/CAMO-Marksman-Pro-Tool-345001/203040672

It basically puts the proprietary screws in the sides of the planks at a perfect angle hiding them between planks. Now the plans on here did not account for the difference in plank sizes, so I had to work a little magic on my own. The issue I ran into was that I wanted to use 7 planks to roughly equal the same table width as if I had used 4 - 2 x 10 planks. The tops of the X legs do not extend enough to securely grab and hold the outside of the 2 x 6 planks, so I had to improvise. What I did was, I made 2 pocket holes per side at the top of X leg braces (at the end of the 2 x 4's), coming from underneath the braces in order to pull the planks down from the middle of the plank. Therefore, I used the camo tool to push down the inner portion of the two outer planks and pocket holes with Kreg screws to pull down the outer portion (or more accurately, the middle of the plank). I also built and added some cross braces parallel to the two X leg braces for the center of the table. I mounted these perpendicular to the top 65" center spine brace for the table (runs parallel to the planks), using pocket holes and also used pocket holes at the outer ends of the 2 x 4 braces to again pull the outer planks down. This worked very well for me and the braces are fairly secure. Now I wouldn't attempt to lift and move the table be either of the outer planks because I'm not sure it could support that weight, but the table was used for a BBQ with roughly 20 people sitting at it throughout the day and it worked well with various weight from people's elbows leaning on the end planks.

I know it sounds confusing, but if needed, I can try to take a few pictures to share. I'm new to the forum and signed up to respond to your post since I just experienced this same setup you inquired about. Not sure pictures can be posted, but I'll try if need be.

Marcus