4x4 Truss Beam Table

ana white truss beam table farm style
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Build the truss beam farmhouse table! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

This beautiful solid wood table is sturdy and substantial.  Built using off the shelf lumber, we love the truss beam detailing and angled legs.  It's a beautiful table that will add that rustic look to your dining room.

We also have available the matching Truss beam bench plans

farm table benches

My friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic loved our Providence Table, but wanted a bigger version for indoor use, built using real 4x4 beams.

Here's from Whitney:

"Oh how I LOVE a great DIY dining table.  Restoration Hardware wants $3000 for theirs, and I built mine for around $100 in wood.  This table is big and beautiful, and I can't wait to serve my entire family at it!"

There's a ton of different ways this table could have been put together, but Whitney choose to use a Kreg Jig HD.  Because the 4x4 is so big, it won't fit in the jig, so Whitney's solution was to use a clamp.  


Whitney has provided lots more details on how she built this table and lots more pictures right here - please take a second to stop over and check it out!


And of course, the plans follow!



XO Ana


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4x4 Truss Beam Table

truss beam table dimensions
Dimensions shown above


Shopping List

5 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long or stud length

2 - 2x10 @ 12 feet long (tabletop boards - can be cut in half at store for easier transport)

1 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long (cut breadboards out of this board - can also use a 2x8 or 2x12)

Whitney used 2 1/2" Kreg HD Screws and a Kreg HD to build this table

You'll also need 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to put the tabletop together and to attach the tabletop to the aprons

Cut List

2 - 4x4 @ 35"

4 - 4x4 @ 25 3/8" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 28 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends are NOT parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 65"

2 - 4x4 @ 26 1/8" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 2x4 @ 65"

4 - 2x10 @ 68 1/2" (tabletop boards)

2 - 2x10 @ approx 37" (cut breadboard ends to fit)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Build two of the leg sets out of the 4x4s. Once you get one built, built the other on top of it so they match perfectly.

Step 2

Attach the two legs together with the center beams.

Step 3

Position the cross supports inside the table and attach to the top and bottom beams.

Step 4

Add the 2x4 aprons underneath for added support.

NOTE: We kept these flat to keep the look the Shanty girls were after, but to make this table stronger (especially if you were modifying the table to be longer) I recommend attaching the 2x4s vertically instead of flat. If you go this route, make sure you predrill 1 1/2" pocket holes facing upward in the aprons to attach the tabletop in the next step.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Mon, 09/23/2013 - 16:16

I already have a partially finished table in the garage. But with what we need to buy to finish it I feel like making this one would make more sense. If I can convince him this will be on my "to do within this century" list. Whitney never ceases to amaze me and these look so much easier (not that the others are complicated) than some of the other tables. I have 4 kids so we need a sturdy table, no question.


Sat, 10/26/2013 - 19:16

I LOVE the Truss Beam Table! It's exactly what I've been looking for. However, I would love to build it wider than 37". I was thinking of using 3-10" boards and 2-8" boards for the top, plus 10" breadboards on the ends with more support underneath. I was planning to add 2 more 2x4s underneath for support of the wider width. Do you think this is doable? I've never built anything of this size before and I'm nervous to change the plan without more direction. I'd love any advice you could give... Thanks so much for sharing this!


Wed, 04/07/2021 - 12:21

I built a table for my dining room similar to this one with one of Ana's plans and I am building another for my sister like this one. On mine and I plan to do on hers as well, I took and notched out the 4x4 out 1.5"x3.5" for the 2x4's to run past the 4x4 leg support and provide support for the bread board. Stop about 3 or 4" from the end of the table and I also cut the end of the 2x4 at a 45 to dress it up if someone looked under the table lol


Fri, 07/18/2014 - 13:31

Can you please tell me the color and brand of paint used in this dining room pic? It's beautiful! I am going to make this table too :)


Wed, 12/03/2014 - 18:07

We are looking to build this table soon. Has anyone had problems with the top expanding and contracting? We live in the Midwest and it tends to be dry here in then winter and humid in the summers. Thanks for any help. 


Tue, 01/06/2015 - 09:56

Yes, it is. Biscuits are great for alignment. Just make sure the edge jointing and glue up is done well. But just for the top. The biscuits would not work well strength wise for the butt joints used in this table.


Mon, 02/22/2016 - 11:50

I love the idea of building a table so that it will be exactly the size I want.  I'm hoping to seat 10 people around it, so the interweb tells me it will need to be 120" long. Obviously the top will be longer as well as the center beams and aprons. How about the cross supports? Leave as is? Change the angle to make them longer?



Thu, 04/21/2016 - 11:56

How many chairs can sit at this current size of table? I would also like to fit 10 at the table, and was wondering how to change the plans to fit that accordingly. I am going to make this in a wood shop class.


Thu, 06/23/2016 - 08:05

Where do you get your wood from for all of that material to only cost $150? Everything I find is way more expensive than that.


Wed, 09/07/2016 - 05:39

Just curious if jointing/planing  the table top boards so that it's completely flat and also so that there are no gaps between the boards (I have 4 kids 7 years old and under, lots of crumbs) would distract from the otherwise rustic / primitive appeal of this peice. Obviously you could still distress the top and round off the edges of the comleted top. I suppose one could joint/plane the entire project as well. Obviously this increases time and costs as you're likely not buying standard dimensional lumber, but that aside - thoughts?


Sat, 10/15/2016 - 23:34

I totally love this rustic table. Will make a great addition to our dining room! Thank you for the plans!


Thu, 11/03/2016 - 22:51

The breadboard ends are supposed to be more than an asthetic detail - in practice they should allow the table top to expand/contract/move without cracking. This is normally done using more complex joinery, gluing and screwing the ends most likely defeats this entirely since the entire top would be held rigid.

Romptimus Prime

Tue, 01/10/2017 - 16:36

I just built this table, and it depends on how you do your screws.  I used the Kreg jig to make a pattern on the table top that gives it a bit of dress up.  I tend to over-engineer things, so with my table top alone, I'd say I used about 60 screws.  I didn't bother with the 2 x 4s under the table, and I also left off the 45 degree pieces off the center truss... It is more than sturdy enough without all that.




Tue, 01/10/2017 - 06:24

I love this table and plan on starting it this weekend. If I want to get some extra support for the breadboards what would you suggest? Also, is there plenty of room to put chairs on the ends or should the breadboards be extended?

Thank you in advance for any replys.

Romptimus Prime

Tue, 01/10/2017 - 16:40

I used all 2 x 10s and there was no need to extend the breadboards.  I'm a big guy (6'3") and with the way the trusses are designed, my knees fit with no problem without extending them.  I ran two screws top and bottom into the breadboards from each of the lengthwise 2 x 10s, and as long as no one tried to push themselves up using the table, they are rock solid.  I had debated reinforcing them with bolts from underneath, but with the way I lined up the 4x4s underneath, I had enough support.  I also used true 4 x 4 (eastern white pine), not 4 x 4s from the box store that actually measure 3.5 x 3.5".  


Best advice I can give anyone doing this table:  Spend the extra money and go to a real lumber yard and get nice wood.  It will save you time, effort and money in the long run when you're not stuck fixing warps, twists, cracks, etc.  


Wed, 02/22/2017 - 20:59

Awesome plans! These plans just specify to "build" the leg sets but I've seen a lot of videos where people use 6 inch torque screws to attach the legs, and the kreg jig like the Shanty girls did. I would love to know the measurement of how far to position the jig from the end of the work piece as well as what setting to use for the depth collar for the 4 inch material? No matter where I look I can't seem to find either of these settings for 4 inch material. Should I also use 2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws for the 4 inch material as well? Would help me out a ton! Thanks a bunch =)


Mon, 12/11/2017 - 00:18

A friend of ours helped us with this table and after reading so many comments about the breadboard ends and the possible lack of strength we decided to frame the table top in. I was upset at first because I really loved the look of the breadboards but we wanted to make sure that this table lasted through our big family dinners and our little girl who is going to be putting this table through the ringer once she gets older. So happy with the results. We LOVE this table and the plans were great. We adjusted the size a bit to fit our benches. 

The only small issue we are having is the smell from the polyurethane coats on the table itself. Not sure if we used the wrong product or not but oh boy the smell is strong. We brought the table in our house yesterday but we are taking it out today because the smell is so strong and we don’t want our 1 year old to be exposed to the strong odour. Did anyone else have this issue? If so, what did you do about the smell, if there is anything you can do? If you didn’t have this isises, What product did you use to seal the table?

Thanks again for sharing such beautiful plans with us!! Can’t wait to tackle more projects...hopefully next time on our own!


Fri, 01/12/2018 - 14:04

Has anyone had any issues with this table cracking over time? A video I watched with a woodworker stated that the breadboards on the ends don’t allow the wood in the middle of the table to expand thus leading to the wood cracking over time. I dont want to spend all the time making this if it is going to break. Thanks for any guidance! 


Wed, 01/24/2018 - 05:33

My space isn't big enough for the actual length in the plans. How do I go about altering the plans for a shorter table ? 

New to building furniture. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated. :)


Tue, 02/20/2018 - 12:47

This plan is incredible. I love the simplicity of the build both in the aesthetic and the actual process. My only beef, though, was the lack of direction with pocket holes. I ended up adding four extra PHs per 4x4 when I noticed the beams slightly bending away from each other when under weight. Something to potentially note, S2C. Otherwise, everything was easy and inexpensive! Keep killing it, gals! 


Tue, 03/27/2018 - 07:44

This table is my next project and I'd like to get started soon.  I am debating on the wood.  My husband wants me to find some good wood, like at a specialty lumber shop.  But I was planning on using pine from Lowe's for a few reasons:  it's convenient for me to get, if I screw up a cut it's not too expensive to get a new piece, it saves money to use pine, and if I sand it well enough it can look very nice.  Thoughts on type of wood for this table....


Brian Famous

Tue, 03/27/2018 - 20:13

My outdoor version of this table, which I built about 4.5 years ago, is made from cedar.


It cost me about $400, but was well worth it.


I wouldn't recommend cedar for indoor use though.  I'd also, personally, skip on pine.  It will dent, scratch, and just generally not wear well over time.  I think you might be able to get away with it for the base (particularly if you're open to painting it), but would use a better hardwood for the top. 

Though, if it's your first table build, doing a pine top first may be a good idea.  You can always replace it in a few years and wouldn't have that much money invested in it.


Fri, 05/18/2018 - 13:15

I am not a professional builder at all, but I will say I have done a couple projects with the pine from HD or Lowes.  We had a farmhouse table custom built and I am pretty sure the guy just bought his wood from big box as well.  The table was sturdy and looked great, but after a couple months the wood started to shrink and/or dry up.  Spots that were covered when he stained, now show and are unstained. Not sure if better wood will fix these issues.


Mon, 10/14/2019 - 18:22

Thank you for the plans to this table.  I used a mix of Kreg, biscuit, and mortise and tenon joinery to assemble the parts.  Also used a router, jointer and planer to mill the boards prior to assembly.  I've made the table in cedar, douglas fir, pine, and now oak.   


Mon, 10/28/2019 - 09:34

Truss is backwards.  FYI

I am a concrete furniture fabricator and made this base for a customer for a concrete dining table.  This design probably suffices for a wooden top but if you are making something heavier reverse the 45 degree supports.  The weight from the center of the table needs to be carried down to the legs, not the center of the bottom 4x4 stringer.   Aesthetically the plans might look nicer reversed but as a former general contractor I couldn't bring myself to build a backwards truss even if my top wasn't 400 pounds.  That said, as designed here the two 45's do provide the the second function of sheer bracing (think rocking from end to end) so you want them installed securely.


Tue, 02/11/2020 - 06:59


I was just wondering if I don't have a HD Jig, can I add pocket holes on both side of the beam? 

I just have the R3 jig right now. 

Thanks in advance.


Sun, 08/09/2020 - 20:43

I didn’t have a good night for it either. I drilled 5/8s hole through different places and then screwed into the different beams. Then to cover it up I glued a 5/8s dowel in the hole. I did sets of 2 and three. Dowels will be visible though but I like the look a lot.


Fri, 03/06/2020 - 03:26

I love this table! However, my space is smaller. Can someone help me to make it a 6ft table instead of the size it is now? 


Mon, 05/11/2020 - 11:51

Hi i love this table and would like to make mine 10' long by 4' wide. Can anyone help on updating the wood dimensions/cut list or provide me with insight as to how best to do this? Thanks for any help. love this site!

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