Simplified 8' Barn Door Console Plans

8' long barn door console plans
Difficulty
Intermediate
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One of our most popular projects is this barn door console.  But we wanted to make it even simpler and easier to build - and in a longer length! - so more people can have this amazing project in their home for about $350.  The console in this plan is a whopping eight feet long, three feet tall and about 16" deep (it's BIG).  Paint or stain any color.  Free plans by Ana-White.com

Updated: 6' Version Now Available Here

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photo by Estate of Bliss LLC

Want to make your living room instantly gorgeous (and tidier)?

A barn door door console can change everything!

ana white barn door console

Instead of paying $1000+, have you thought about building it yourself?

  • No particle board - this will last as long as you want it to
  • Solid wood top
  • You choose the finish
  • Rustic look from using solid wood
  • Save hundreds of dollars - we estimate building it yourself will cost about $350
  • You only get to pick on piece in that spot - might as well make it the right piece!

ana white barn door console plans

 

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Simplified 8' Barn Door Console Plans

Dimensions
barn door console dimensions
This console is VERY BIG - about the size of a large sideboard - 8' long, 3' tall and 16" deep

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 sheets of 3/4" thick Hardwood Plywood, ripped into strips 15-1/4" wide x 8 feet long
  • 30 feet of edge banding in matching veneer to the hardwood plywood
  • 2 - 1x3 furring strips, 8 feet long
  • 5 - 1x4 pine boards, 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 pine board, 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 pine board, 4 feet long
  • 3 - 1x6 pine boards, 8 feet long
  • 1 - ¼” plywood half sheet (4’x 4’) for half back, or full sheet (8’x4’) for full back
  • 100 pack of 1-¼” coarse Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
  • 100 - 1-¼” brad nails
  • 100 - ¾” brad nails
  • 8’ barn door mini kit for cabinets like this one or DIY your own
  • Circular Saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig
  • 18 Gauge Brad Nailer
  • Palm Sander with 120 grit sandpaper
  • Measuring Tape
  • Safety Glasses
Cut List

Carcass Pieces, cross cut from the 15-1/4" wide strips

  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-1/4" x 45-3/4"
  • 4 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-1/4" x 22-7/8"
  • 4 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-1/4" x 35-1/4"

Trim, Top, Back and Door Pieces

  • 4 - 1x3 @ 22-⅞” Bay Supports
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 45-¾” Bay Supports
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 35-¼” - Face Frame Stiles*
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 87-½” - Face Frame Rails
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 28-¼” - Face Frame Mid Stile
  • 1 - ¼” plywood @ 48” x 32” - Back
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 16” - Base Ends
  • 3 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 29-½” - Door Stiles
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 15” - Door Rails
  • 2 - ¼” plywood @ 16” x 24” - Door backs

*Do not cut two 35-¼” pieces from the same 1x4 - instead cut | 35-¼” | 29-½” | 29-½” | so that all the cuts fit on your shopping list

 

Cutting Instructions

The best way to rip the plywood down to the 15-1/4" width is using a table saw or a circular saw with a track or guide.

You can request your home improvement store make the cuts for you too, but it is very important to make sure the widths are all precisely 15-1/4"

Cross cutting the plywood pieces can be done on a miter saw by cutting as much as you can, then flipping and cutting the remainder, but this is hard to do accurately.  A circular saw with a guide can be used for cross cutting.

Tools
Tape Measure
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Apply edge banding to all the plywood pieces, along the front edges.  Trim excess edge banding and lightly sand the outside corners, so it is smooth.

On all shelf (horizontal) plywood pieces, drill three ¾” pocket holes on each end.

Attach to the side (vertical) plywood pieces with 1-¼” pocket hole screws, spacing as shown in the diagram.

 

Step 2

Drill two ¾” pocket holes on each end of the bay support pieces.  Attach inside the bays with 1-¼” pocket hole screws as shown in the diagram.

 

 

Step 3

Drill two ¾” pocket holes on each end of the rails.  Attach to the stiles with 1-¼’ pocket hole screws. Repeat for the mid stile, centering.

 

Step 4

You can do a full back or half back as shown.

Cut with a circular saw, elevating the plywood off the floor with scrap wood pieces.  Make sure you adjust your circular saw so the blade is about ⅜” cutting depth.

Attach to back with ¾” brad nails and wood glue, to all shelves, sides, bay supports for maximum strength.

 

Step 5

Measure and cut the base trim ends from the 1x2 @ 4 feet long.

Attach with glue and 1-¼” brad nails.

 

Step 6

Measure and cut the front base trim.

Attach with 1-¼” brad nails and wood glue to the front.

 

Step 7

Attach the 1x6 boards together with ¾” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Position on top with even overhangs on the ends, flush to the back, and attach with glue and 1-¼” brad nails.

 

Step 8

Depending on your hardware specs, you may wish to size and build your drawers after hardware installation.

 

Attach the door rails to the stiles with ¾” pocket holes and 1-¼” pocket hole screws.  Then attach the back to the doors with ¾” brad nails and glue.

 

Step 9

Hang doors with 8’ barn door hardware kit.

 

Comments

Blndee217

Fri, 10/23/2020 - 09:24

I wanted to view the plans for the 6' version as indicated in the post; however, when I click the link it gives a 404 error that the page isn't available. I realize to reduce the size, I should reduce the measurements, but I am new to woodworking and want to have plans. Can you point me in the direction of the 6' plans? Thank you!!

cwatson

Sun, 10/25/2020 - 16:42

Hi Ana, just bought your book and I'm really excited to get started. Brand new to any type of woodworking. My wife and I just purchased our first house and we are so excited to fill it with your inspired designs. I was looking for the 6' version of this console and got the same 404 page not found error. Also, do you have any other books that I can check out and purchase? Thank you so much!

jmartinezorlando73

Mon, 11/02/2020 - 09:19

I just created this masterpiece and I cant thank you enough for the plans. I am VERY new to woodworking but your plans and site have made it easier for me to understand. I am waiting on my hardware, but I will brag about it this week when it comes in and I can install the doors. I did add 1/4 inch bead board on the entire back and gut out 2" holes with grommets to allow for wires to come through and plug stuff in.

jmartinezorlando73

Mon, 11/09/2020 - 09:18

There is an upgrade that I put into the plan. The mini cabinet hardware screws that came with the door hardware were very long and actually went through the facing. I actually put in a 1x2 on the inside edge of the facing across the top using glue and brads. This allowed for the screws to grab better and not have the screws go through the 1x4h

djtech2k2

Sat, 01/02/2021 - 13:33

I have been looking for a project to expand storage and counter space for the kitchen. I have been looking at this project as well as the Grandy. Other than dimensions and the material, is there any major difference? For example, is one a lot more sturdy than the other? I have not built anything this large that will hold this much stuff with pocket holes so I have been back and forth. I do see that the hardware for the Grandy seems to be harder to get too.

Jeff Richoux

Mon, 08/02/2021 - 10:29

Ana, can you recommend a site where I can buy the 8' barn door hardware kit? My wife found a new project on your site for me to do and the hardware kit is what I can't find.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!