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Farmhouse Table - No Pocket Holes Plan

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Do you want a farmhouse table, but don't want to spend thousands of dollars?  Have you thought about building your own?  Check out this free, step by step plan to build your own with basic tools.  From Ana-White.com

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No Pocket Hole Plans
farmhouse table featured in country living magazine

reader submitted photo

The Farmhouse Table Story

Beloved for hundreds of years, the Farmhouse Table was usually made by the family that used it, from wood that was locally harvested, using basic tools.  Soft woods were easier to use, but the soft wood dents easily, and the tables showed wear, creating that authentic distressed look.

Today, a true farmhouse table is just that - built by hand by the family that uses it, using soft woods, and finished by hand.  The tables are meaningful, with each scratch and scuff having a story, each moment creating memory for the family that uses it.

Start your family's Farmhouse Table Story by building your own table, and gathering around it to share a meal, to fold laundry on and do homework on - to create the foundation of your family's home.

The Farmhouse Table Plans

Our Farmhouse Table plans have been built tens of thousands of times and are in homes all over the world. The extremely sturdy, rustic styling is easy to build and authentic to history.

Built out of all off the shelf lumber - builders spend between $50 and $100 making their farmhouse tables.

You just need a saw and a drill to make this farm table.  

Special thanks to ssshindler for the featured photo.

This table was also featured in Country Living Magazine!  Built by Michael and Emily Knotts, photo by Lucas Allen

The plans for this farmhouse table follow.  Also check out these other plans:

Thank you so much for using our plans.  If you build, please share a photo and let us know how your build went in the comments or a brag post.

Pin For Later! 

Farmhouse Table No Pocket Holes

Dimensions
farmhouse table dimensions
30″ High x 38 1/2″ Wide x 96″ Long

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 8 – 2x4 8 feet long
  • 6 – 2x2s  8 feet long
  • 1 - 2×8  8 feet long
  • 7 – 2x6s 8 feet long
  • 2 3/4″ Self Tapping Wood Screws (About 100) (try spax brand or similar)
  • 4″ Self tapping wood Screws (About 20)
Common Materials
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

A) 4 - 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Outside Legs)

B) 4 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Inside Legs)

C) 2 -2×4 @ 34 1/2″ (Bottom End Supports for the Stretcher)

D) 1 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Stretcher)

E) 2 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Side Aprons)

F) 2 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (End Aprons)

G) 2 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Overhang Supports, Ends)

H) 2 – 2×2 @ 78″ (Overhang Supports, Sides)

I) 10 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Under Tabletop Supports)

J) 2 – 2×8 @ 38 1/2″ (Breadboard Ends)

K) 7 – 2×6 @ 81″ (Tabletop Pieces)

Cutting Instructions

Start by cutting all your boards.  The best way to cut is with a compound miter saw.  You can also use a circular saw with a guide - good square cuts are very important.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Always use glue. Use the longest possible screws, and predrill with a countersink bit to hide the screw heads.

Instructions

Step 1

Notch out boards A, the Outside Legs, as shown above. If you do not know how to notch out boards, watch me notch the boards out for my table in my HOW-TO section.

Step 2

Notch out the inside leg as shown above. Make sure you notch both the top and the bottom as shown above. Use the measurements from step 2 to notch the bottom. See the below diagram for a closeup on notching the top.

Step 3

The above diagram show you how to notch out the top of the inside legs.

Step 4

Now screw an inside leg to an outside leg, using glue and 2 3/4″ screws. Be aware of where each leg is placed – it does matter on what sides the inside leg sits. Also, screw through the inside leg into the outside leg to keep your screw holes on the inside.

Step 5

Step 6

Screw the support, C, into the legs, as shown above. Make sure you use 2 screws on the inside leg and 2 screws on the outside legs per side of the end supports. NOTE: If you would like the support to be on the outside, rotate the legs, keeping the inside legs on the inside, and add 4″ to your stretcher, D. This will reduce your leg room for end chairs, but the notch out will be more visible, like my table and the Restoration Hardware table.

Step 7

Put your stretcher in place and screw down.

Step 8

Build your apron on a level surface as shown above, using side apron boards E and end apron boards F.

Step 9

Fit the apron frame into the base of the table as shown above. Use the long screws to screw at an angle through the apron into the legs. Use 3 screws per leg on all legs. Lots of glue here. Now is a good time to check your table for square. Visit the HOW-TO section if you do not know how to check for square.

Step 10

Mark the side apron every 5 3/4″ and place the 2×2 supports, I, as shown above. Remember that a 2×2 is 1 1/2″ wide. This does not have to be exact and the last support will not be exactly 5 3/4″ from the end. Use the 2 3/4″ screws here.

Step 11

Add the overhang supports, G and H, as shown above. Keep the top edges flush, use the 2 3/4″ screws. Make sure you screw these in good.

Step 12

Now the breadboard ends, J. See the below diagram for measurements:

Step 13

Use the long screws to screw the breadboard end into the legs. Then screw from the underside of the overhang support, board G, into the underside of the breadboard end.

Step 14

First mark all the ends of the tabletop boards, K, for the screw pattern. The screw pattern I used was 1″ from the end, and 1″ from each side and one in the middle. Predrill the ends on the marked pattern, as shown above.

Step 15

Then begin adding the tabletop pieces K, starting with the center piece. Screw the center board in place on the ends through the top, pre,drilled and marked in step 15. Then from the underside of the table, screw through the tabletop supports, I, into the underside of the tabletop boards, K.

Step 16

Add the next tabletop boards, K, as shown below. As you screw each board down, take special care to line up the edges with the existing boards. You do not want a gap between the boards on the tabletop. Remember to screw through the top on the ends and then screw through the bottom of the under supports to the underside of the tabletop boards.

After all the boards are screwed in place, then use the long screws to screw through the tabletop boards into the breadboard ends, as shown above.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
Fill any wood screw holes with wood filler. Use stain matched wood filler for best stain hiding. For a painted finish, any wood filler works. Overfill the screw holes. Let dry.
Sand the entire table with 120 grit sandpaper, working in the direction of the wood grain.
Refill holes with wood filler if needed.
Sand table with 180 grit sandpaper.
Stain or paint. If the table feels rough between coats, lightly sand with 180 grit sandpaper.
A final coat of poly on the top can help keep the top easy to finish and wipe cleanable.
Project Type
Table Plans
Dining Table Plans
Room
dining room
kitchen
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Smartmiltoys

Sun, 11/13/2016 - 09:40

This is gorgeous. I don’t have the room for one that big but will just make it as large as I can for the space. If I want a natural matte look and feel to the table (like a living edge top) does anyone know what type of stain and protective coating to use to avoid the shiny look? Want the stain to have some colour to it. Thanks.

Sue (not verified)

Sun, 12/06/2009 - 20:27

ARE YOU KIDDING ME??? OMG..I just went to Restoration Hardware and picked up their catalogue and drooled over these very pictures...that dried up real fast at the prices.! LOL
This is amazing. Now I have to find old wood. We have so much in the garage...there has to be some cool stuff.
THANK YOU!!!! I am going to sow this to my hubby tomorrow. I know he will be thrilled that I have discvered your blog via Shabby Nest

Attic Gal Alysa (not verified)

Sun, 12/06/2009 - 21:26

I'm came to your blog via Shabby Nest. I love your table. I can't believe you made this yourself and for what a price! How rewarding. Thanks for sharing and inspiring the rest of us.

Six in One Hand (not verified)

Sun, 12/06/2009 - 21:55

WOWZUHS!!!!!
I just stumbled upon your blog via Shabby Nest and I am in l-O-V-E with your blog!!!

I just became a follower and will be back...like every day....back....(kinda stalkerish?)

Funky Junk Interiors (not verified)

Sun, 12/06/2009 - 22:31

Ohhhh fabulous! Shabby Nest fan here too. Now I'm your fan as well. :) This girl with tools is most curious and will be following closely!

Donna

Victoria@Whims… (not verified)

Mon, 12/07/2009 - 05:50

Love this table! My husband is getting ready to build me a farm house kitchen island...we are doing a mahagony top, so there goes the idea of only spending $9 for us. lol I am so glad I found your blog, will be a follower now! Have a wonderful day and look forward to many more visits. :)

Hugs,
~Victoria~

Elizabeth (blu… (not verified)

Mon, 12/07/2009 - 12:10

Wow! Stopped by from the ShabbyNest too. What a beautiful piece you made, and to share the instructions- so very kind and generous of you. I'm off to become a follower and to check out more of your blog. Thank you Thank you.

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 12/08/2009 - 08:46

Victoria building an island - One of the tables pictured from Restoration Hardware is actually an island. I actually loved the island more than the table, so I built a hybrid of the two (island's design, no shelves underneath). If you would like to see modified plans to make a farmhouse island please comment.

You are smart to use the hardwood top - more functionality.

Thanks for reading my blog and commenting!

Ana

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 03/28/2011 - 05:34

I would love to see the plans for the farmhouse island. We live in a 120 year old house, and are making plans to renovate the kitchen.

You really have some super ideas on your blog- when do you find the hours in the day to do all of this???
Lynne H.

Kristy Ethridge (not verified)

Wed, 04/06/2011 - 08:55

I would love to see the plans for the farmhouse island!  I found an island from Lexington I fell in love with that has a hammered stainless steel top but it's really expensive.  I came across your blog and love all of these ideas and plans.  I love the table, but an island made similiar with a stainless top might just be what I'm looking for!  Thank you!

Rebecca (not verified)

Tue, 12/08/2009 - 09:02

Love your blog! I got here through Shabby Nest, and am now hooked. I think that given the proper tools, I would love working with wood as this is something that I always did with my Dad growing up. I've always had a mental list of "why couldn't I build that" things such as bookshelves, a console table, and coffee table. With your site to inspire, I KNOW that I could do some of it! Thanks for providing your talent as a resource - look forward to visiting your blog!

shelly (not verified)

Thu, 12/10/2009 - 05:00

That is AWESOME!!! I like yours hands down better then R.H.'s! (I never liked the little island thing on theirs...or the dried up old wood look.). Your instructions are great---after this Christmas rush, I'll be making a mini version as a coffee table...I've been drooling over the same design in the pottery barn catalog!

The Decorating… (not verified)

Tue, 01/05/2010 - 16:06

What talent! I think I can learn a lot from your blog. I hope I can go to the next level and do a project like that table.

Janet

Vike (not verified)

Sun, 01/10/2010 - 18:05

You are evil... Just, evil. I can't think about anything else in life right now except building your furniture! Not that my wife is complaining.

justlikelead (not verified)

Fri, 01/15/2010 - 10:15

Wow, that looks great! And I am one who usually doesn't like anything distressed (not even jeans). I discovered your blog via apartment therapy.

P.S. I'm sure you could get better lighting by moving a ton of lamps into the room...but then you have to move them back. Nevermind!

Maddy AK (not verified)

Fri, 01/15/2010 - 11:11

This is an amazing site! My roommate and I want to get a farm table but they're...well...expensive. Since I'm unemployed, I definitely have the time to make this. Also, I live in New York where we have Build It Green - all recycled wood for way cheap. I'm going to abuse them so bad.

Quick question though, would the table still be supported if you didn't have the beams underneath the table? I hate sitting at the end of a table and kicking your feet into the ends of the table.

Thanks! I'm so excited!!!

Ana White (not verified)

Fri, 01/15/2010 - 13:38

Table without stretcher. You can build the table without the stretcher supports, and it should be just fine. Just make sure you keep everything very square, because you won't have the underneath supports to square everything up with. Check out the Hyde collection of tables. They are all built this way. You could also use 4x4 posts instead of the notched 2x4s.

Maddy AK (not verified)

Fri, 01/15/2010 - 13:40

Yeah...I saw that after I looked around a bit more. I'm so excited about this project!

Keep this up! It's a fantastic site!

Brittany at Mo… (not verified)

Sat, 01/16/2010 - 04:39

I just found your blog and I love it love it love it! I spemd all my free tie building things and knocking off furniture so this is just perfect. Usually I just post what I have done once a week on the old bloggy blog you know! I was just in Restoration Harware last night and decided to build the coffee table of reclaimes wood along with this table, although I need it to be more like a trestle table since I have a banquette and people need to be able to slide in. My third baby is due on Tuesday so hubby has cut me off the saws as of yesterday (when he caught me ;)but I will be back! You are awesome! My new best friend!

Angela (not verified)

Sat, 01/16/2010 - 08:25

Ana, you mentioned modified plans for an island? I would LOVE to have them..we're going to be building our very own in the coming weeks and I would love the help. We're so excited and grateful to have found your site. Keep up the great work!

Anonymous (not verified)

Sun, 01/17/2010 - 17:06

Right on! I'm glad to see something honest and real instead of some cheap knock off that was made in China (like all of Restoration Hardware's "reclaimed" wood items)...Keep up the good work, I'm bookmarking your great site.

Anonymous (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 11:44

I, too, just discovered your blog and FB page. Please tell me how to make this an island. Sounds just like what I've been wanting. Great site!!!

Cynthia

Anonymous (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 13:00

I, too, just discovered your blog and FB page. Please tell me how to make this an island. Sounds just like what I've been wanting. Great site!!!

Cynthia

Erika (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 08:06

OK,now i'm addicted to your blog. got here via young house love and can't get away. I have wanted a farmhouse table for I don't know, forever!I immediately sent this link to my husband who I am going to partner with to make this! Thank you so much and can't wait to try all of your other plans, love them!!

banananutmeg (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 18:15

I'm in love. No really. Your blog is a total drug for a furniture junkie! I love it. I'll be back for another hit soon...like tomorrow.

ainhoa vega (not verified)

Sun, 01/31/2010 - 02:36

I found your blog via Apartment Therapy and I love it! I've wanted a solid wood table for my patio but all of them are really expensive. So after seeing this I think I'm going to try and make one myself with the help of my boyfriend! Our only question is what kind of wood should we use if it rains a lot where we live? I know we would probably be better of with a plastic/metal table but I really don't like them...

Bill K. (not verified)

Sat, 12/29/2012 - 09:05

Given the price listed for the wood pieces, I would assume it is pine. If the table will be an outdoor table, be sure to coat it with water sealant. Also, there are better, longer lasting, wood such as cedar, which is better suited for furniture exposed to the elements.

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 02/01/2010 - 16:59

For an outdoor table, I would recommend using cedar or teak or other outdoor woods. These are expensive options.

You can use pine or other hardwoods, but you will need to refinish the table every year if you live in a rainy area (think rotting picnic tables). Refinishing is easy if you keep up with it - just scrape and apply a new coat of poly or varnish.

bundle#1 (not verified)

Sat, 02/06/2010 - 08:47

Ana --- How many people does this table sit? We have a lot of family get togethers and that means a LOT of people.

Thanks!

Beth Bliss (not verified)

Tue, 02/09/2010 - 08:14

Love this table, but currently looking to do an island and would LOVE one w/this style, maybe w/ 2 shelves underneath vs just the one bottom? am in love with your site! :)

Anonymous (not verified)

Tue, 02/16/2010 - 07:06

Hey Ana,

One more time of begging you to tell me how to make this an island. Mt dd's bday get together is 3/5 and I'd like to have it in my kitchen by then. ;-)

Cynthia

Kelly (not verified)

Mon, 02/22/2010 - 15:39

Just finished building this and I LOVE IT!!! Never built anything before, but I'm quite in love with the feeling of a saw in my hand! This thing is HUGE for our big family of 7 and I have my grandmother's old dining chairs that will be added with a bench (our next build) and we'll have plenty of seating. About to head to the garage to apply my stain in Cabot's Peppermill and Tannery semi-transparent... Can't wait to see it. I have pics and will post them to my blog soon!!!!

KGJ (not verified)

Sun, 10/14/2012 - 17:23

What kind of wood did you use? Was it pine or something else?

Cottage Panach… (not verified)

Wed, 03/10/2010 - 10:45

Wow Ana ~ right now I am doing the ~ I AM NOT WORTHY bow to you! I googled "plans for a farm table" and found your blog ~
You Rock
Maureen

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!