Modern Adirondack Chair

modern adirondack chairs painted green
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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This modern style Adirondack chair plan features clean lines and simple materials.  The base is sturdy and substantial 2x6s, so it will hold heavy weights and won't blow away in the wind. You'll love our step by step plans and diagrams.  

Reader submitted photo by HARLEYANDCHRISTINA 

 

 

 More Free Adirondack Chair Plans from Ana White

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Modern Adirondack Chair Features

  • Modern Styling
  • Deep recline for enhanced relaxation
  • 2x6 base framing for increased strength, durability, and weight
  • 2x4 legs will last longer and hold more weight
  • Simple angle cut construction that is easy to build

 

Modern Adirondack Chair Plans

This is an updated plan.  If you need the old version of this plan, you can find it here.

Dimensions
dimensions diagram for modern outdoor chair
Dimensions are shown in the above diagram

Preparation

Shopping List
  • Cedar wood or other exterior appropriate is recommended.  You can use whitewood or spruce - just make sure the wood is finished well.
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 9 feet long or 9 foot stud length
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 8 - 2-1/2" pocket hole screws (recommended but can substitute for 2-3/4" self tapping wood screws)
  • 25 - 2-3/4" exterior self tapping wood screws
  • 70 - 2" exterior self tapping wood screws

 

 

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • 2 – 2×6 @ 29-1/2″ (Stringers, cut in step 1)
  • 1 – 2×6 @ 21″ (Front Apron)
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 18" - (Base Support)
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 18″ (Legs, ends cut at 20 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 24-3/16" - (Arm Supports, both ends cut at 20 degrees off square, long point to short point measurement, ends ARE parallel)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 24" - (Back Support)
  • 3 - 1x6 @ 32" - (Back Slats)
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 18" - (Seat Back Top)
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 21" (Seat Slats)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 23-1/2" (Arm Rests)

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Mark out the stringer pattern on 2x6 stringer boards.

Cut angles with a circular saw.

Cut two matching.

Step 2

Attach stringer to front apron.  Pocket holes would be hidden and recommended, but you can also use 2-3/4" self tapping wood screws.

Step 3

Add the back aprons support between the stringers.

Step 4

Cut legs on compound miter saw.

Attach to the base with 2-3/4" screws.

Step 5

Attach 2x2 side supports with 2-3/4" screws, making sure the 2x2s are level all the way back.

Step 6

Use 2-3/4" screws to attach the back support between the arm supports.

Step 7

Add the two outside back slats with 2" self tapping wood screws.

Step 8

Attach top with 2" self tapping wood screws.

Step 9

Center remaining back slat in between and attach with 2" self tapping wood screws.

Step 10

Lay seat slats and screw down with 2" self tapping wood screws.

TIP: Attach the front and back slats.  Then attach the center slat.  Then center the remaining two in between.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
We recommend pre-finishing boards.

Comments

Little Birdie … (not verified)

Mon, 05/24/2010 - 14:00

Love it!

Clear thinking (not verified)

Mon, 05/24/2010 - 14:26

My advice is to have wider boards on the arm rests!!! We live in these chairs all summer and I LOVE LOVE LOVE having the wide boards to put eveything on. Thus not having to have things sitting on the ground or be reaching for my purse or something all the time. With the wide boards I can have my drinks, cell all the goodies etc.

Laura PARING DOWN (not verified)

Mon, 05/24/2010 - 15:32

I heart Adirondack chairs...and that header!!!

:) Laura

Susan (Between… (not verified)

Mon, 05/24/2010 - 16:52

Ana, You're amazing! You design/build amazing furniture, playhouses, etc...AND you have a beautiful garden, too!

Lacking Productivity (not verified)

Tue, 05/25/2010 - 04:30

Yippee! My porch is in desperate need of one of those Adirondack benches!

MommyKate (not verified)

Tue, 05/25/2010 - 10:24

I am planning on doing this project on Saturday... two chairs and the bench... big goal but I am soooo excited! Thanks Ana!

Stephanie (not verified)

Sat, 10/16/2010 - 16:42

I have never built anything in my life but really want some Adirondack chairs for our porch. I've read through your directions and it seems very doable- thus making me very excited. However, I am wondering if you have made the child-size plans yet? I would want one of those too since we have a two year old who loves to have his own size item that looks like the adult version.

lunadaat (not verified)

Sat, 01/01/2011 - 21:28

Are there plans for the foot stools and side table in the pic with all the colored ones? I was wanted to build a sofa size and 2 of the chairs but I would like the side tables and foot stools too.

razvan (not verified)

Tue, 01/11/2011 - 12:18

Dear Ana,
I appreciate very much your articles and most of all your achivements . I am from Europe (Romania)and as a beginer I try to do a Sharp Adirondack Chair following your instructions. I notice that if I cut the front legs to 15 degree ,paralel to each other , the high of the chair will not be 19 3/8 ( 48,4 cm) but much shorter .
It's really 15 degrees cut off , or maybe 1,5 degrees ???
Thank you in advance for your answer.
Regards
Razvan

razvan (not verified)

Mon, 01/17/2011 - 11:19

Dear Ana,
Sorry , I want to say ............." the high of the legs will not be 19 3/8...."
Regards
Razvan

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 04/14/2011 - 20:40

I guess I have a question and a comment.  First, the comment.  I made the chair the other day and it was rather simple and looks very nice.  Thanks for all the detailed instructions.  Now for the question.  For the sofa, I see where you add the additional support for the seat, but I'm not understanding what you are saying about the back.

Helga from Austria (not verified)

Sat, 11/12/2011 - 17:07

I'm in love with your Adiron Chairs... :-)

and wanted to be able to make also such as one, (I'm
a absolute beginner)
Unfortunately your drawings are not in metric measurement.

Kind regards :-)

Helga

In reply to by Helga from Austria (not verified)

claydowling

Sat, 11/12/2011 - 18:25

I'm from the U.S., but I've bought a couple of plans from a Canadian woodworker that have measurements in a mix of imperial and metric units. While I'm comfortable working in both systems, conversions are always prone to inaccuracy, and his plans are as much engineering as woodworking.

My solution is to use metric measuring equipment. For the most part I have to mail order it from Canada (although perversely my nice metric ruler is made in the U.S.).

You could do the same in reverse. Some woodworking supplier in Australia will be selling measuring tools marked in imperial units. A folding rule would probably be sufficient, since a good one can measure two or three meters, which should be sufficient. I would check out Japanwoodworker.com, which sells to both Japanese and American woodworkers, and I think they have a presence in Australia.

I think your lumber there is actually marked in imperial units, probably because a significant portion of lumber in the world comes from the U.S. and Canada. I've seen the dimensions given backwards though. I don't know if that's Australians having some sport with Americans, or legitimately what is done. In any event, if you see lumber marked at 4x2, it's equivalent to our 2x4 lumber.

Helga from Upp… (not verified)

Sun, 11/13/2011 - 02:21

Thank you Claydowling, thats very nice, I'll try
to find a woodworker because I'm beginner.....

I live in the small country Austria not in Australia :-)

Have a nice day :-)

Helga

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 11/15/2011 - 17:53

Cut ends off square so that they're parallel... Cut ends off square so that they're perpendicular... You have a lot of plans, but all of them have errors.. Slow your posting down, and correct the errors first, rather than rushing to get a lot online

jimmyp (not verified)

Thu, 05/17/2012 - 10:54

hello , question , for us old folks with stiff backs is there any way to make the angle not so steep ,, its mighty rough getting outta these boys ,, Thanks

Hailey-Guest (not verified)

Wed, 07/04/2012 - 14:17

Are there plans for the foot stools yet? I couldn't find any but they would really complete the look!

swenson68

Wed, 11/14/2012 - 22:11

Would like to save this plan but there is in an error in opening the pdf file link

dallynd

Wed, 05/01/2013 - 12:00

Beautiful and I want to make it, but I can't seem to link to the PDF. All others are working fine for me.

CptChris

Thu, 06/19/2014 - 06:43

Just out of curiosity...would it be bad to build these chairs out of cedar...is it too soft? I can only assume these plans are made out of pine? Is there a stronger but more cost effective wood to build these out of?

Also...any reason to not use 2x8's or 2x4's for the major structural weight bearing parts? Other then cost? Might last longer?

sprucegoose

Sun, 06/07/2020 - 15:39

Do you recommend sanding each of the cut pieces prior to assembly or do you recommend assembling the entire chair and then sanding at that point?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!