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Picnic Table that Converts to Benches

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Free step by step plans to build a picnic table that converts easily to two separate benches. The tabletops rotate to form bench backs. Detailed plans give you step by step instruction to build this multi-use outdoor staple for your deck or patio.

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Ana's Adirondack Collection
 
Photo by STEPH99 
 
Here's one plan that easily goes from bench to picnic table, and back to bench - all very simply and easily.  
This is a great addition to a small space.
The benches are very comfortable sit at and generous sized.  Then easily move into a table set up.
 
 
 

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Picnic Table that Converts to Benches

Dimensions
bench picnic table convert plans
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 7 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 1/2" self tapping exterior deck screws (star bit recommended)
  • 8 - 4" long, 1/2 diameter bolts with washers and nuts
Common Materials
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

CUT LIST IS FOR 2 BENCHES CONVERTING TO ONE PICNIC TABLE

  • 4 - 2x4 @ 28 7/8" (Back Legs - Both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, parallel to each other, long point to short point measurement)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 27" (Seat Support - Short point to short point measurement - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 16 3/4" (Front Legs - Both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, parallel to each other, long point to short point measurement)
  • 12 - 2x6 @ 47 7/8" (Seat and Tabletop boards)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 17" long (Tabletop Supports)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 41" (bottom back support)
 
Cutting Instructions

Carefully cut all of your boards with a compound miter saw, or mark angles with a protractor and carefully cut with a circular saw.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Additional dimensions shown above. We found that this table/bench was most comfortable as a bench. If you are expecting to use the convertible picnic table bench mostly as a picnic table, I suggest you first review our free as always picnic table plans. The wide seat when converted to a picnic table makes for climbing into the seat a tad more difficult than traditional picnic tables - but let me tell you, the wide seat as a bench is quite nice.

 
 

Step 2

First things first. From your back legs, drill 1/2" diameter holes as shown above, centered on the top. Drill on all four legs.

Step 3

Lay the front leg over the bottom of the back leg, with bottom and outside edges flush. Trace the top edge - this will be the line that you will line your seat support top up with. Lay the seat support on top of the legs as shown above and predrill holes and attach the seat support to the legs with 2 1/2" galvanized screws and wood glue. You will need to make four of these. Make two with the seat support on the right and two with the seat support on the left - it does matter.

Step 4

Mark all of the seat boards 2" from the ends. The seat boards overhang the legs by 2" on the outsides. Attach the seat boards to the legs, using 2 1/2" galvanized screws and wood glue. Adjust for square. Leave 1/4" gaps between the seat boards. Use one left and one right leg for each bench as shown above in the diagram.

Step 5

Step 6

Now that you have constructed the top, line the holes in the back legs up with the holes in the tabletop supports. Thread your 4" bolts through, add washer and nuts, and tighten. Lay a level on top of the table, perpendicular to the tabletop boards. With the tabletop level (use a clamp to hold in place) drill holes through the back legs and the tabletop supports and insert a pin (you can just use another 1/2" bolt). Do this on both sides.

Step 7

Remove the pins and rotate the tabletop so it becomes a backrest. Sit in the bench, and determine a comfy backrest position. When satisfied, clamp the tabletop supports to the back legs and drill another 1/2" diameter whole. Insert the pin. Do the same on both sides. To convert the benches to picnic tables, simply remove the pins and rotate the backrest to a tabletop, and reinsert the pins in the correct holes.

Step 8

Add the back support piece to the back legs, with two screws per end, 6" from base of legs.

Longer Picnic table: for a longer convertible picnic table bench, above shows how you would use standard eight feet long boards for the tabletops, and simply add an extra leg in the center. You will also need to add a back brace as shown above.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Dining Table Plans
Bench
Outdoor Projects
Room
Outdoor
Style
Modern Style Furniture Plans

Comments

Ana White

Sun, 05/01/2011 - 21:25

You are going to be shocked at really how easy this table is to build! We are so pleased with it, we are building two more (benches) to surround our firepit!

Jessica Haines (not verified)

Sun, 05/01/2011 - 21:39

The other day I was driving down my street and I saw my neighbor lady building something. I drove back by later and saw she had built some awesome benches that seem to convert to a table....low and behold I open up facebook today and they are your plans! Awesome, I'm gonna have to go make friends with this neighbor and start some building parties! Thanks for all the free plans! You're awesome!

tracysmith

Mon, 05/02/2011 - 10:37

My mom was just asking me if I could whip up some of those neat picnic tables that turn into benches. I laughed and told her that I'm not quite that good ... yet. Now I can make some and really surprise her!! Thanks Ana! That's really awesome!!!!!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 05/02/2011 - 11:04

This design is amazing!
I just wanted to confirm the cut list vs. shopping list. You list 7- 2"x6"@8ft to purchase but the cut list says 12- 2x6@48 7/8 inches (that's 6 2x6@8ft) plus
4- 2x6@8ft for tabletop supports. That doesn't seem to jive with shopping list or the overall size of the table/bench.

I assume they should be 4- 2x6@17 inches- just want to get this right. I really love this plan.

thanks so much

Ana (not verified)

Mon, 05/02/2011 - 12:09

Cut list has an error should be 12 2x6@47 7/8. I am traveling today will fix when I get to my computer. Thanks for catching this. Ana

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 05/03/2011 - 05:58

sorry, I put 48 7/8, I meant 47 7/8 which is what you have- that part seems right. I wanted to clarify just the tabletop supports that are listed as 4- 2x6@8ft.

My apologies for making this more confusing by my error.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 05/03/2011 - 05:58

sorry, I put 48 7/8, I meant 47 7/8 which is what you have- that part seems right. I wanted to clarify just the tabletop supports that are listed as 4- 2x6@8ft.

My apologies for making this more confusing by my error.

Alisa (not verified)

Mon, 05/02/2011 - 15:59

Ana You Are Amazing!!!

I built this today using all scrap lumber that my boyfriend wanted to throw away. All I need to do is get larger bolts and decide on a finish. Yeah! I am obsessed with your website. THANKS!
Alisa

KeithBrown (not verified)

Tue, 05/03/2011 - 15:46

On the cut list I believe the following:

4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long (Tabletop Supports)

Should should be 4 - 2x6 cut ten degree off square not parallel on each end to 17"(long side) (Tabletop Supports)

Auto complete will get you every time hey Ana?

Trish (not verified)

Wed, 05/04/2011 - 13:31

My high school's football team mass produced these in shop class, painted them in school colors and sold them as a fund raiser. It was great to see them all out & about the community.

claydowling

Wed, 05/04/2011 - 20:15

I love that for a fund raiser. It helps get young people involved in woodworking and beautifies the community at the same time. It also helps that I love this design. Wish I'd been clever enough to think of it myself.

Zocco (not verified)

Wed, 05/25/2011 - 05:44

Great stuff here!

Should the horizontal brace shown on the back rest/table side actually be on the seat side of the legs? I'm no expert, but the current way it looks like if the horizontal brace is there and it is converted to a table, wouldn't that hit your feet?

Catherine McIsaac (not verified)

Sun, 06/05/2011 - 09:44

These are almost the Cottage Life Convertible Picnic Tables from April/May 2002.

The plan for this can be found at http://cottagelife.com/19841/diy/projects/our-top-10-projects - the plans include beautiful color photos of the projects (Bunkie, Outdoor Shower, Treehouse, BBQ prep station, Canoe/Kayak Rack, etc). The plans are free now thanks to Timbrmart.

Cottage Life has also put up a video of the Outdoor Shower with Wayne Lennox the author/builder at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxWUQKLzLaQ - very cool, especially the use of the pocket door.

Efl (not verified)

Wed, 06/15/2011 - 19:56

We made these recently and I'm a little disappointed. They are somewhat wobbly. We love, love, love the way they function, but were wishing they were a little sturdier. We are planning on adding a brace underneath the seats where the seat meets the legs at an angle (the wood would be cut at 45 degrees on both ends and screwed in the corner). We are hoping this will help big time.
This is our first Ana White project and even though they are a little wobbly, I have a feeling we will be using more of her plans in the future.

Sandra Godsey (not verified)

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 09:23

I have been a fan for awhile....and every project makes me a bit braver to try and make some of these wonderful pieces...I am at the point of buying some tools and starting with a simple project...this bench/table project is the final straw..I need to get over the power tool fear and jump right in! Thanks for taking the time to have this website and give confidence to us dreamers!

hcker2000 (not verified)

Thu, 04/05/2012 - 08:41

I noticed that in the Step 3 Image it says to cut only one side of the back leg and leave the top square.

In the cut list it says to cut both ends at 10 degrees. I think it would be better to leave it square on the end as I cut them both at 10 degrees and the top on hits a tinny bit.

4 - 2x4 @ 28 7/8" (Back Legs - Both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, parallel to each other, long point to short point measurement)

Cayleigh (not verified)

Wed, 05/16/2012 - 06:53

I love the idea of this plan. So much so, that I am going to convert it a bit and make only half of it, to use as a kitchen table up against my wall. We have limited space in our kitchen and if I can use something like this for the kids to eat on but also for others to sit at comfortably, then it's a win win situation.

Thanks for the plans ANA

Burntsider (not verified)

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 16:51

Per your instructions in Step 3, I attached the seat supports to the four legs using four screws per joint. I spaced the screws as widely as I could without being too close to the members' edges. The result is the joints are all insecure. I'm going to need to gusset them somehow to keep these joints from weakening further through movement over time.

franlewis

Sat, 06/23/2012 - 06:34

My husband and I made this table as a Father's Day gift for my dad to use at his lake house and he absolutely loved it. Now we are working on one for ourselves. On the first table we used a weatherproofing outdoor stain all over. Beautiful by the way. We want a little more color for our table so I was thinking...painting, applying a water sealer, distressing, then using the outdoor stain on the distressed areas. Does this sound like the right steps? Suggestions anyone? You rock Ana!!

Jimbond13

Sat, 06/07/2014 - 16:56

These worked great as benches but not so good as picnic tables. There was just not enough room to get your feet in. We removed the screws of the third 2x4 and then used a simple bolt as a pin from the side so that they can be removed for the picnic tables but replaced for the bench.

kdknowlden

Mon, 09/15/2014 - 12:02

Any guess as to overall weight for one unit (half-table)?

Any input as to using 1x lumber instead of 2x - for the purpose of weight reduction and mobility for use as a stage prop?

Thanks,

Keith

Paco43

Fri, 01/30/2015 - 10:48

I am working in this project. How do I make the 10 degrees angle cuts? I am new on this.

Lady Goats

Fri, 01/30/2015 - 19:28

Hi Paco, a 10 degree cut is made on either a miter saw, table saw or with a miter box. Those are easy to set to 10 degrees..

To be honest, I was able to do my first project with a jig saw and a protractor that I printed from online. If you don't have any of the bigger saws available, I'd suggest getting or printing a protractor, marking 10-degrees and cutting slowly along the line. Hope this helps!

Igniscient

Thu, 06/18/2015 - 21:10

I just finished today. I had to re-cut the back legs because when I tried to attach the tabletop/backrest, there wasn't enough room for it to swing down - it would hit the bench. I double & triple checked my measurements & everything was right. I had to go buy some extra 2x4s to finish.

I also noticed 2 discrepancies between the cut list & the directions. In the cut list, it says to make the back legs long to short, but in the plans it shows it long to square - you need to square the top or the tabletop won't swivel down, it will hit the point. The other discrepancy is the tabletop/backrest supports - the cut list doesn't mention cutting an angle on them, but the directions show an angle. Those ones didn't cause me too much hassle.

bignreel

Tue, 03/01/2016 - 05:07

I had seen this or another similar plan a few years back and had planned on making it for several of my family members. I never got the "plans" and lost the link to it...WOW!!! Now my year is gonna get busy!!! I'm planning on making 4 sets of these at VERY least! THANKS SOOOO MUCH!!!!

wayneout

Tue, 09/06/2016 - 10:34

Hello, I am retired and just getting into working on wood projects. Found this site and has some great plans.
I am going to buy a miter saw to work on this picnic table, but I don't understand the cuts.  I looked up how to do a 10 degree cut with a speed square but I am not sure of how to measure. It says length is 28 7/8"  from long to short.  Do I cut the board to that length and then cut off 10 degrees.  It is the wording of "from long to short or short to long that has me confused.  Remember I am a novice at this. Thanks.

ecasey11

Tue, 07/14/2020 - 12:08

Hi - is the top of the bench/table supposed to be able to be adjusted by hand by unscrewing the bolts and moving it to the other position? Or is a socket wrench always required? I'm not familiar working with bolts so wanted to confirm.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!