Narrow Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 02/21/2010 - 23:13
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Some dining spaces (or even work spaces) require a long thin table. This rustic simple table is easy to build, yet sturdy and stylish.

Special thanks to Deux Maison for sharing their amazing photos. Make sure you stop over to see more photos and read about their building experience.

96" x 30" x 30"


Shopping List

2 – 2×2 Boards, 8′ Long ($2 Each for pine)
4 – 1×8 Boards, 8′ Long ($7 Each for pine)
2 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ Long ($1.50 Each for pine)
1 – 1×4 Board, 10′ Long ($4 Each for pine)
2 – 1×6 Boards, 10′ Long ($6 Each for pine)
1 1/4″ and 2″ Finish Nails
2″ Wood Screws (about 100)
2 1/2″ Wood Screws (about 20 screws)
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Finishing Supplies

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

4 – 1×3 @ 29 1/4″ (Table End Legs)
4 – 1×4 @ 29 1/4″ (Table Side Legs)
2- 1×6 @ 88″ (Side Aprons)
2 – 1×6 @ 23 3/4″ (End Aprons)
2 – 1×3 @ 23 3/4″ (End Stretcher)
8 – 2×2 @ 23 3/4″ (Under Tabletop Supports)

Cutting Instructions

This table is highly customizeable to fit your needs. Note that the tabletop expects your tabletop boards (the 1x8s) to be 7 1/2" wide. If your 1x8s are not 7 1/2" wide, adjust accordingly.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface. Check for square after each step. Use straight lumber. Measure and confirm your cuts before cutting. Dryfit your boards before fastening. Always use glue. Predrill and countersink screws. Use saftey precautions and protective eye and hearing gear.


Step 1

End Legs. Taper your end leg pieces as shown above. Cut the taper in a straight line, starting 5 1/2″ from the top, and tapering in 1″ at the bottom. This is shown above. Do this on all four legs. The end legs are made of 1×3 boards.

Step 2

Side Legs. Taper the side legs as you did the end legs from step 1. The side legs are made of 1x4s . Use the measurements above to guide you.

Step 3

Leg Assembly. Assembly your legs as shown above. Be aware of the leg postion on the table as you assemble, as the legs will be assembled different depending on the position. Remember, the 1×3 leg sides are on the ends, the 1×4 leg sides are on the sides of the table. This is shown above.

Step 4

Side Aprons. Fasten the side aprons in place as shown above. Make sure you take a square of the legs as you do this. This is shown above.

Step 5

Step 6

Under Tabletop Supports. Attach the tabletop supports as shown here. Use the measurements above to guide you.

Step 7

Tabletop Pieces. Start by finding the center of your table. Mark and place your table top piece, using the center mark for your first boards. Only attach on the ends in this step, using the screw pattern above. DO NOT ATTACH IN THE CENTER. Attach the remaining tabletop pieces on the ends only.

Step 8

Tabletop Pieces. From the underside, fasten through the under tabletop support pieces into the tabletop pieces. Start with the middle boards and work your way out. Minimize any gaps between the boards. Predrill and countersink your screws. To further strengthen the table, you can add simpson strong tie corner brackets to the corners.


Guest (not verified)

Mon, 05/09/2011 - 11:42

I learned long ago to double check measurements before cutting and was reminded why with the aprons and stretchers.

Both are 23.75".

However, the apron is 23.75" inside both the side apron and the front facing leg. The stretcher is only inside the front facing leg and should be longer.

Measure accordingly.


Other Josh (not verified)

Wed, 04/25/2012 - 05:48

Bingo, I decided to reproduce the drawing in Google Sketchup and discovered this little discrepancy.

By my measurement, if the end skirt is 23 3/4" then the end stretcher should be 25 1/4".

karin thompson (not verified)

Mon, 05/30/2011 - 15:53

Can anyone give me some guidance on how & what saw to use to taper the lags correctly. I am stuck. :)

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 05/30/2011 - 19:28

The tool list says to use a circular saw, but I thought my jigsaw would be easier to keep stable on a 1*4. You can use either and remember that this isn't fine furniture so they don't have to be perfect; no one will notice if they are a little off.

karin thompson (not verified)

Tue, 05/31/2011 - 13:20

Thanks so much for the advice with tapering the table legs! I am going to do my best and remember that this is a One of A Kind piece!


Mon, 05/30/2011 - 20:15

I've never really found a happy solution for tapering legs outside of a table saw. I've got a series of desk and table builds coming up though, and I'm hoping to experiment with using hand saws for it.

I have a lovely Disston rip saw that I will probably use to get a rough cut on the taper, and then clean it up with a hand plane. If I didn't have that saw, I'd pick up a japanese pull saw filed for rip cut at blue or orange and use that for the cut, and still clean up with a hand plane.

Even with a table saw I'd clean up with a hand plane. Unless you have a very expensive table saw (which I don't), there will be saw marks that you'll want a plane to clean up. The upside is that I just found #4 Stanley smoothing planes and decent quality Arkansas stones for sale at Blue.


Sun, 06/19/2011 - 12:47

If you are going to be doing more than a couple of the same taper cuts, it makes sense to build a jig for it. Here is a video on building a relatively simple jig for doing it on a table saw. I tried this and it worked really well, even considering that I've got the worlds crappiest table saw (about 60 years old with a horrible rip fence).

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