Mini Armoire Cabinet

mini armoire cabinet
Difficulty
Advanced
| Print this plan

Free easy plans to build a DIY cabinet, inspired by Pottery Barn's Avery Cabinet. Simple vintage styling, pretty turned legs. Step by step plans include a cut list, shopping list, and detailed diagrams.

 
Photo by SRODGE1 
Dimensions
mini armoire cabinet plans
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 4 - Turned Feet, 6-8" in length (or extend 
  • 2 sets of Euro Style Inset Hinges (see step 9)
  • 1 - set 16" Drawer Slides (see step 8)
  • 4 - Knobs or handles
  • 1 - full sheet 3/4" plywood
  • 1 - half sheet of 1/4" plywood
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 24" long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 48" long
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 4 feet long
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
Common Materials
2 inch screws
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
2 1/2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x16 @ 32" (side panels)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 15 1/2" (width of side panels above)
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 32" (Legs)
  • 1 - 1x16 @ 23" (Shelf)
  • 1 - 1x16 @ 28" (Top)
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 23" (Shelf Trim)
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 28" (Top Trim)
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 28" (Top Trim)
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood or beadboard @ 32 3/4" x 26" (Back)
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 23" Drawers
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 22 3/4" (Face)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 16" (Sides)
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 22" (Back)
  • 1 - 1/4" Plywood @ 16 3/4" x 22" Doors
  • 2 - 1x12 @ 21 1/4"
Cutting Instructions

To get 1x16 boards, simply cut the plywood into strips 15 1/2" wide by 8 feet long.

Don't want to use plywood? You can also use 1x12s for the sides, but your cabinet will be 4" narrower. You will then need to use 12" drawer slides instead of 16".

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Nail the 1x2 trim to the tops and bottoms of the side panels.

Step 2

Now add the 2x2 legs to the side panels as shown above. Pocket hole screws set for 3/4" stock, 1 1/4" screws would be best, from the inside. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, carefully glue and screw in place as shown in diagram.

Step 3

Once the sides are done, attach top in place, in line with the 1x16 side panels. Nail down with 2" finish nails and wood glue. Then mark 9 3/4" up from the bottom of the legs. Attach the shelf, above this mark (so there is a 9 3/4" gap BELOW the bottom shelf). You can use pocket holes, nails or screws and glue. IMPORTANT: Width of cabinet is designed to use 1x12s that measure 11 1/4" wide for the doors. If your 1x12s are not 11 1/4" wide, you will need to adjust the width of the cabinet. Here's the math - each 1x12 is 11 1/4" wide plus 1/8" clearance on both sides to equal 11 1/2". 11 1/2" x 2 = 23". Adjust these measurements to fit your 1x12 widths. You will need to adjust all horizontal boards if you do make an adjustment.

Step 4

Attach top trim to top, glue and clamp in place for an even joint between the top board and trim. Do the same for the shelf trim. Measure down 5 3/4" from the shelf trim and attach the last trim board. We'll be adding support to this guy in a bit. IMPORTANT: This measurement assumes that your drawer face 1x6 is 5 1/2" wide, with a total of 1/4" clearance to equal 5 3/4". If your drawer faces are "off" adjust accordingly.

Step 5

Step 6

I find attaching first, and then cutting is easiest for me. Attach in place - should strengthen up that last trim board quite a bit - and then mark a pattern and cut out with a jigsaw.

Step 7

Now things are getting fun! Attach the legs per instructions with the feet.

Step 8

Build the drawer as shown above. The bottom is 1/4" plywood, sides are 1x4s and face is 1x6. The face overhangs sides by 3/8" and drawer face conceals the entire drawer box. Adjust for square. Once drawer is complete, attach to cabinet using 16" drawer slides like these: 

 
 
Available at both Blue and Orange in 16" lengths.  I have a tutorial on these drawer slide here that might help.

Step 9

Doors - per step three, should fit nice, with an even 1/8" gap on all sides. Attach with hinges like these: 

   
 They are available here at the Home Depot.  I find them also at Lowes and online.
Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

mandylynn523

Tue, 06/14/2011 - 12:06

Great Plan Ana! I will put this on my to-do list when I get back from Deployment! Who needs R&R when I am dying to get home to build LOL!!!!
Mandy

In reply to by Jami H

mandylynn523

Tue, 06/14/2011 - 23:56

Thank you so much Jami! It truly means a lot to me. I defiantly will. My husband has already made sure we put a weekend aside and build lol! It will feel so great to be go home and do it as a family project for once! Have a blessed day!

Michelle L. (not verified)

Tue, 06/14/2011 - 12:17

I love this one! Where did you get the feet? At one of the big box stores because I can't find any that short online? They're either bun feet or table length legs. Thanks! :)

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 06/14/2011 - 15:05

I definitely want to try this! It might be my imagination but I think you may have missed the 2x2s on the cut list??

rindymae

Wed, 06/15/2011 - 07:28

I love this so much I could pee myself. I have hundreds of pictures ripped out of magazines of this exact style. Thank you thank you thank you!

rindymae

Wed, 06/15/2011 - 07:29

I love this so much I could pee myself. I have hundreds of pictures ripped out of magazines of this exact style. Thank you thank you thank you!

Ayla (not verified)

Wed, 12/28/2011 - 08:31

It's official! I need this cabinet! Why? Because my name is Ayla! Ack!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!