A simple bench gets stylish with some clever cross bracing and false notching. We love the easy nail and glue joinery. It's perfect for the entryway, end of the bed, or anywhere you might need ocassional seating.
See why so many have built this bench already! Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos.
- 4 – 1×3 8′ boards
- 1 – 1×2 8′ board
- 1 – 1×12, at least 54″ long
- A) 4 – 1×3 @ 17 1/4″ (Leg Pieces, notch out in step 1)
- B) 4 – 1×3 @ 11 1/2″ (End Aprons and Side Stretchers)
- C) 4 – 1×2 @ 17 1/4″ (Leg Pieces to complete the legs)
- D) 3 – 1×3 @ 45″ (Aprons and stretcher)
- E) 2 – 1×3 @ 25 3/4″ (Cross Supports)
- F) 1- 1×12 @ 54″ (Top)
Work on a clean level surface. Use good boards. Cut all of your boards first. Check for square after each step. Because this is a bench, I recommend using screws instead of nails. Always use glue. Predrill and countersink your screw heads. Have fun and be safe.
Cut the Cross Supports. Cut the cross supports as directed above. Use your square to determine the cuts and mark on the board prior to any cutting. The overall length, from the longest point to the longest point is 25 3/4″. This is by far the trickiest step. What you will need to do on the end cut at two different angles, is first mark out the 60 degree angle from the top corner (when imagining the board in place on the bench). Also mark and cut the bottom angle. Then cut these angles and fit on the bench. Center the bottom on the stretcher. Then mark off where the top overhangs the top of the bench and clip off. This cut does not have to be perfect – you will just need to make sure it sits lower than the top of the bench.
Top. Fasten the bench to the top, as shown here. If you wish to hide your screw holes, you will need to either predrill through the apron and screw into the underside of the bench or you can purchase small L brackets and fasten the top in place. If you are painting, you can simply predrill and scew through the top into the aprons.