Reclaimed Wood Look Bedside Table

wood nightstand with drawers rustic farmhouse
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Rustic bedside table or nightstand - farmhouse style.  Free plans from ANA-WHITE.com

nightstand with three drawers

Featured photo by bRick

diy nightstand with three drawers small cute rustic wood

This rustic three drawer nightstand is easy to build with off the shelf lumber and basic tools.  

Dimensions
nightstand with drawers dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 10 feet long
  • 1/4" plywood for back
  • 3 knobs or pulls
  • 3 sets 16" White Euro style drawer slides like shown in this plan
Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 14" (Side Trim)
  • 8 - 1x4 @ 23 1/4" (Side Panels)
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 27 1/4" (Legs)
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 16" (Front/Back Tie ins)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 14" (Center Tie In)
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 19" x 23 1/4" (Back)
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 21" (Top)
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 21" (Top)
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 21" (Top Front) Drawer cut list in plan
Cutting Instructions

Dire to the success of this project is using straight boards that measure true to width as follows: 1x6 - 5 1/2" wide 1x4 - 3 1/2" wide 1x3 - 2 1/2" wide 2x2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" If your boards do not measure to these widths, you will need to adjust the plan. If your boards are not straight - namely the 1x4 side panels, you could have trouble with the drawers.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

 

For long term durability and more professional results, I recommend using a pocket hole joinery system for wood joints.  Here is a video with tips for using a pocket hole jig:

Instructions

Step 1

If you have a Kreg Jig, attach the panel boards to each other first with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, with your jig set for 3/4" stock. This will make the panel a solid piece. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue the panel trim, flush to top and bottom. Ensure that your panels are square (very important!)

 
If your panel boards are not coming out flat, do this sort of thing with additional 1x2s - lined up with the front tie ins.

Step 2

Now attach legs to ends of panels as shown in diagram, flush to tops.

Step 3

Whenever you build for drawers it is crucial that your project is very very square, or your drawers will not slide correctly. Attach the front/back tie ins, and check the entire project for square, measuring from opposite leg to opposite leg on both the top and bottom of the legs. You can also use 2 1/2" screws and wood glue to attach tie ins, with predrilled screws and wood glue.

Step 4

Add the center support as shown above.

Step 5

Step 6

Now the top, start at the back with the 1x2 and attach flush to the back, 1" overhangs on both sides. Continue adding 1x4s, and finally, the front is a 1x3 . . . Would be super cute to leave the top wood and paint the base a distressed finish.

Step 7

Now the drawers . . . Super important to build square drawers. Your drawer boxes should be built 1" less in width than the drawer housing (the interior of the project) to give clearance for drawer slides. The "perfect" measurements are shown here, but you may need to adjust for differing board thicknesses 6 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2" (Sides) 6 - 1x3 @ 15" (Fronts and Backs) 3 - 1/4" Plywood @ 16" x 15" (Drawer Bottoms) 3 - 1x6 @ 15 3/4" (Drawer Faces) Don't add the drawer faces quite yet. For a drawer with higher sides, you can also use 1x4s.

Step 8

Install drawer boxes as shown above, inset by 3/4" from the front of the project. Make sure your drawers slide well. Then position the drawer faces over the drawer boxes until there is an even 1/8" gap on all sides and nail drawer faces on. Be aware of hardware locations so you don't have to drill through nails later.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. 

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

deanna_g

Thu, 06/23/2011 - 11:26

I love this!!!! Once I have more money to purchase the lumber, I'm making 4 of these!!! 2 for the guest room and two for MY room!!!!

hook Fam

Thu, 06/23/2011 - 11:37

I'm so excited!! I just finished the reclaimed headboard and a footboard from the same pattern and just logged in to start a different side table. But I'm totally doing this one now!! Thanks!

ferbit

Sun, 06/26/2011 - 19:41

I agree with Apron Appeal - who needs all the wasted space under an end table! I love the idea of three drawers! This would be really pretty next to my storage daybed........ :)

Chelsey (not verified)

Thu, 07/14/2011 - 07:23

Almost done with this awesome night stand... just need to add the drawer fronts.. This is my first picture it was hard because i dont own my own saw so had to get it cut at home depot.... great project....and cheaper to make then MOST nightstands... Thanks for the blueprint!

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 07/31/2011 - 19:01

how and where did you install the drawer slides? Are they attached directly to the sides of the nightstand?

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 12/02/2011 - 09:34

Where do you put the finishing nails, do you just nail them in right on top or from the backside so they don't show? Do you have to countersink a space for them first, and then fill it in with wood filler?

James Shelton

Wed, 05/02/2012 - 16:21

Hello,
I wanted to get the pdf for this project as it would be great to surprise my wife with.
But I keep getting an error every time I click on the pdf.

Thanks,
James

Tori (not verified)

Tue, 05/08/2012 - 22:10

I've just finished Grace's bookshelves and now I have the woodworking bug. This is hopefully my next project but I am concerned about shrinking and warping with the vertical panel pieces being glued and nailed to the 1x2 trim pieces (Step 1). Is there room for movement with this so that there won't be issues with warping or cracking?

MCD (not verified)

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 14:06

Where do we attach the drawer slides? Half of each set goes on the drawer, but where does the other half go?

claydowling

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 15:33

The traditional advice is to put the other half on the cabinet side. The vertical positioning is the challenge. You want about a dime's width between the bottom of the drawer and the opening. I usually just set the drawer on a pair of dimes. I assemble the slides, put the drawer into place, and then mark where the parts touch at the front, either on the drawer or the cabinet frame, depending on which you attached the slides to.

Senathon

Mon, 03/04/2013 - 12:17

This project was great and easy to build. The thing I can not figure out is how do the drawers are supposed to stay in without any type of guide. If a guide is suppoed to be used, can you provide tips on when and how to install for this table?

q0987

Thu, 12/31/2015 - 13:11

Hello all,

I am not able to figure out how the drawer is supported by the frame. Do we need to install extra frame in order to support the drawer? Basically, I don't understand how the drawer can slide in and out inside the table bed because I don't see any structure that can support the box.

Thank you

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!