Armoire with Open Shelves and Magnetic Doors

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build this armoire with open storage and concealed storage behind magnetic metal doors. Industrial chic with just a touch of metal, this cute kids room DIY project contains free step by step furniture plans to build!

Necessity truly is the mother of invention. 

Last Sunday, I was counting on my scrap piece of beadboard being just big enough for two doors for this armoire with open shelves.  But of course, it wasn't.  And of course, I live in a small town where beadboard isn't sold, and hardware stores are closed on Sunday.
What to do . . .  use plain old plywood?  
Fabric?
Nah, how about tin flashing? 
 Why not?  I thought I would give it a try. And tin flashing is magnetic, perfect for a kid's room.
I happened to have a roll of 20" wide tin flashing leftover from another project.  Simply cut to size with tin snips (just scissors for cutting tin with) and stapled on the backs.  I also filed edges smooth and covered with clear tape to protect Grace from owies.
Best part?  You've got a just-right-height magnet board on the cheap . . . and concealed storage!
Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

5 - 1x12 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 6 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
20" wide tin flashing roll, 4 feet long
2 sets of hinges
2 knobs
Optional 3/4" x 3/4" cove moulding
1 sheet 1/4" plywood

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

2 - 1x12 @ 71 1/4"
1 - 1x12 @ 36"
5 - 1x12 @ 34 1/2"
1 - 1x4 @ 36"
1 - 1x4 @ 34 1/2"
1 - 1x2 @ 36"
1 - 1x2 @ 37 1/2"
1 - 1x2 @ 39"
4 - 1x2 @ 11 1/4" (Width of 1x12)
4 - 1x3 @ 20 1/2"
4 - 1x3 @ 17 7/8"
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 72" x 36"

Cutting Instructions

If you can't find 1x12s that are straight or would like to build a wider width armoire (deeper storage) then replace the 1x12s with plywood cut into strips to your desired widths. Recommended widths to use up your plywood are 11 3/4" and 15 3/4" or 23 3/4". Choose PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood for a formaldehyde free alternative.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build the cabinet box as shown above, using either 3/4" Kreg Jig holes and pocket hole screws or 2" screws and glue, countersinking screws. Adjust the box for square by taking a diagonal measurement from opposite corners, ensuring measurements match. Bottom, middle and top shelves must be fixed, remaining shelves can be adjustable or fixed at different heights. You can also use 1x10s for the non-fixed shelves for a different look or inset doors.

Step 2

Attach the back as shown above, using finish nails and wood glue.

Step 3

Now the header, nail in place from all sides as shown above.

Step 4

The footer is attached on top with 2" finish nails and wood glue. If you wish, you can use a jigsaw to cut out a decorative pattern.

Step 5

Step 6

Use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue. I like to hold the top 1x2 in place to guide me as I attach these.

Step 7

Now the front - use 1 1/4" finish nails again.

Step 8

Now for the top, use 2" finish nails and wood glue.

Step 9

Here too.

Step 10

I wanted to soften my crown, so used 3/4" x 3/4" cove mouding, mitered around the top as shown above.

Step 11

I built door frames as shown above using the Kreg Jig, with pocket holes set for 3/4" stock, 1 1/4" screws. Then I finished the empty frame and painted. Finally, I stapled the tin flashing to the back with 3/4" staples. I also filed sharp points from the tin flashing and covered the edges with clear tape.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

hoffer5353

Tue, 08/23/2011 - 04:10

You do such amazing work, when do you find all that time? It seems as though you have a new project to share almost every day.
Do you have a place on your web page where we can have a photo tour of your house? I bet it is fabulous
How much of the furniture in your house is made by you or purchased?
Thanks for all the great ideas and plans!

MegShannon (not verified)

Tue, 08/23/2011 - 05:25

What a great idea. I vote photo or even better VIDEO TOUR!
Come on Ana, you are only building a duplex, creating furniture from scratch, taking care of a family, raising a kid and running your own online business/website-- I think you have plenty of time to do a tour!:)

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 08/23/2011 - 05:39

I think this might be my next project before building wall to wall shelving system in my kids playroom. My son needs something in his room for clothes and toys in a little cubby hole that nothing fits into. And this would be PERFECT! Need to make my dimensions a bit different but still.

ACraftyCauldron

Tue, 08/23/2011 - 05:53

Ana, how in the world do you always know the exact pieces I am needing in my house!?!? This is PERFECT for a little troublesome spot where I was needing some more storage. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

Crystal Fisher

Tue, 08/23/2011 - 09:26

This is exactly what I was trying to design in google sketchup...and a garbage/compost holder for our driveway...I never thought of tin! That is an excellent idea! and if you put a piece of glass in or clear coat it you can make it a white board, or maybe chalkboard paint!!!!!! Ohhhh the ideas. Thank you so much Ana, you make my day every time I come on here. It's like a breath of sunshiny hope :)

darlasowders

Tue, 08/23/2011 - 09:31

This looks perfect for a spot or two (or three or four) in my home too!

Might be a good idea to cover the (sharp) edge of that flashing with something though. Even just covering it with duct tape before tacking it on should do it, but if you cut it closer to the measurement of the inside of the opening, it could be covered with some narrow trim.

In reply to by darlasowders

Ana White

Tue, 08/23/2011 - 11:17

Totally agree on the edges - we simply covered all the edges with clear packing tape, on both sides before stapling on. Another thought - you may be able to get away with 14" wide roll of flashing instead of 20" - then you are only making one cut, and can place the cut at the bottom.

claydowling

Tue, 08/23/2011 - 13:09

You can get rid of the sharp edge by passing a mill or bastard file over it at an angle to relieve the sharp corner. Even under tape, that's a good idea.

kindlekat

Wed, 08/24/2011 - 14:36

Looking forward to one day building this, I see great plans for it in my dining room as a wine bar/alcohol storage. I'll just add some of those wine-glass holder thingys to under one of those shelves, and perfection! Thanks Ana! This great piece could go in anyone's house for so many things!

Craftycraftswoman

Mon, 08/29/2011 - 07:02

This is exactly the inspiration that I was looking for to flank a window seat I want to build in our dining room (for us piano room)! Any ideas on how to add a faux glass panel instead of metal and still have the doors close somehow?

Linda B

Wed, 08/31/2011 - 12:10

Modifying for glass inserts is an easy fix. Just build another door frame using a 2 1/4" width stile and rail. The length of stiles should be 19 3/4", and the rails 17 1/8". (I hope my math is correct!) Center the frame on the inside of the outer door frame 1/2" from the outside edge, and glue and screw together. This leaves you with a 1/4" "rabbit" on the inside of the frame for you to drop in your glass insert, and 1/2" for the door to close. Use glass "clips" to attach the glass to the door frame. An example of such is found at
http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=158-567&LARGEVIEW=ON

I hope this works out for you. Happy building! :-)

Guest keri (not verified)

Thu, 10/13/2011 - 17:57

Is there a way to make any of these armoires smaller for my princess' doll clothes ?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!