Benchmark Media Console

pottery barn knock off media console diy
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Build your own tv media console with our free woodworking plans!  Stain or paint any color.  You can also build the matching side towers with these free plans.

Photo by KATIE0910 

 

 

Build the Matching Bookshelf Towers to Make this a Media Suite

diy media wall

Free plans to build the matching towers to make this project an entire media wall.

Photo by DGROSECLOSE

 

 

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Benchmark Media Console

Dimensions
media console dimensions
Dimensions shown in diagram

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 and a half sheets of 3/4" Plywood, cut into strips 15 3/4" wide, 8 feet long, cut with the grain. For the half sheet, cut into strips 4 feet long, with the grain.
  • 1 sheet 1/4" plywood for the back
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 sheet acrylic glass 1/4" thick, 30" x 24"
  • 6 knobs
  • 4 sets Euro Style Hinges
Common Materials
3/4 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 26 1/4" (Sides)
  • 3 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 55" (Main Shelves and Top)
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 17 1/2" (Center Divider)
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 27 1/8" (Shelves)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4" (Side Trim)
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 29 1/4" (Legs)
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 26 3/4" (Bottom Trim)
  • 8 - 1x2 @ 26 3/4" (Top Door Area Trim)
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 19 3/4" (Top Breadboard Ends)
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 55" (Top Front)
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 55" (Top Back)
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood 58" x 26 1/2" (Back)

DOOR/DRAWER FACES

  • 2 - 1x6 @ 26 1/2" (Doors - CUT TO FIT)
  • 4 - 1x3 @ 17 1/4" (Door Frames - CUT TO FIT)
  • 4 - 1x3 @ 21 1/2" (Door Frames - CUT TO FIT)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Go through the plan and mark and predrill all Kreg Jig pocket holes prior to assembly.

Glue and nail side trim to outsides of the sides, flush with top and bottom edges as shown in diagram.

Step 2

Through predrilled pocket holes, attach legs to sides with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Do this on both sides.

Step 3

Mark the sides as shown in diagram and attach two main shelves with pocket holes.

Step 4

Carefully mark location of center divider and attach with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Step 6

Attach bottom trim, flush on top.

Step 7

Top trim needs to be added on front and back.

Step 8

Build your top on a flat level surface, using clamps to ensure a smooth, even joint.

Step 9

Mark the top 1" in on front and sides. Attach as shown in diagram.

NOTE: You may wish to install the 1x6 doors BEFORE adding the top if you do not have a right angle drill - or at least the hinges. See step #12.

Step 10

Shelves can be installed with either 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws for fixed shelves, or you can predrill holes for use with shelf pins for adjustable shelves.

Step 11

Cut the back from your 1/4" sheet of plywood. Tack on with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Step 12

Cut your 1x6 boards to fit the door openings. Install with the Euro hinges, shown below:

Step 13

Measure the openings of your cabinet and build doors 1/4" smaller overall. Attach acrylic glass to backs and install in cabinet with Euro hinges.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Lynn P (not verified)

Thu, 10/13/2011 - 08:21

This looks beautiful Ana. Thanks for another great project.

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 10/14/2011 - 21:23

Does anyone know where to get knobs like the ones in this collection? I have been eyeing the coffee table too, would love those plans...
Thanks!

Megan W

Sat, 10/15/2011 - 09:14

Hey Ana, how do we attach the top piece? the diagram points to a screwhole being used for the side pieces, right? thanks for your help and the plan...it is turning out beautiful so far!

Jean-Léo Gagnon (not verified)

Thu, 11/03/2011 - 16:42

Bonsoir,

Vous avez un super beau site, seulement, si on pouvait avoir un peu de français, ça serait exytaordinaire!!!

Merci

storchinsky

Sat, 11/12/2011 - 06:04

I have the same question as Megan W. above and I'm really hoping to build this this week. How do you attach the top? The diagram points to a screwhole which is used to attach the side pieces. I know the easiest thing to do would be to attach with nails from the top, but I had hoped to avoid the visible holes. I know you are busy with the Momplex (Awesome job, by the way, I can't believe what you guys are capable of!) but would appreciate the clarification.

Thanks for all the great plans!
Sherry

nicwolford

Thu, 01/26/2012 - 05:59

I just drove a couple 1 1/4" self tapping pocket hole screws up through the top rail (the piece above the top doors) into the top. You're really just holding it in place since picking the whole unit up by the top would not be recommended (mine ended up being VERY heavy).

storchinsky

Thu, 01/26/2012 - 06:10

Thanks! I actually already built it, and did something similar. I predrilled holes at a slight angle through the top rail and used regular wood screws (countersunk). I still don't love that solution. We move frequently (husband is in the Cdn. military) and I am totally expecting that it will get lifted by the top at some point when I'm not watching! I do love the look of the finished piece!

stmartin84

Wed, 03/07/2012 - 13:01

This is exactly what my wife and I have been looking for. My question is where can I find the plans for the bookcases on each end? Also, does the remotes work with the electronics through the smoked glass when the doors are closed?

JessieAileen (not verified)

Sun, 05/27/2012 - 08:40

My husband wants us to make this really bad. We have been enjoying your site more than you can know. I was wondering if you were going to go the plans for the book shelves also? I think that I could figure something out that would look nice without plans, or make my own plans... it would not be the first time. But yours look amazing!! :D

Austin D (not verified)

Wed, 10/31/2012 - 08:14

Hello Ana, :) i am wondering about the kreg Jig not sure what one to purchase for these projects, which one would work best for all projects?

am building the whole Tryde collection including the media center and 2 towers for the entertainment center, help with what kreg jig to buy that would work for all projects so i don't have to buy more than one KREG JIG, would really help, thanks.
Austin.

mikejoe13

Tue, 12/03/2013 - 17:04

I've built a couple of your pieces already following your detailed instructions. They are very helpful. Planning on tackling this tv stand this weekend. Do you also have plans for the book cases, they look great as well. Thanks.

Bev.Waltrip

Tue, 08/05/2014 - 17:11

Ana, my daughter used this plan for her first project and purchased all the supplies she needed with one exception: an authentic kreg jig. She purchased an off shoot and now she knowers why you use the real deal. The screw holes were too close to the edge and the wood broke away from the screws. She now has a true kreg jig and she said she will not go the knock off route any more.

paarlberg

Fri, 07/31/2015 - 08:12

Mine is 100 wide across the top. To secure the top properly, I used cleates on the bottom side of the top and were attached prior to installing the top. I predrilled the cleates for pocket screws to attach to the end panels and the legs. This allowed me to get the top nice and tight and then set it into place and then used screws to attach to the frame. It was my first furniture build (100% by myself). I haven't done the doors yet, just finished the rest a couple days ago and not sure if I want glass or solid panels..

I have been having issues uploading pics to ana-white.com, so no pics at the moment.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!