4 Cubby Bookshelf or Nightstand

Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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How to build a cubby bookshelf. Free easy plans with diagrams, cut list, shopping list and project video.

10 Reasons Cubbies Rock

You don't need bookends.
Everything has a place.
Clutter looks like it's on display.
Removing an object means disrupting only that cubby - not the entire bookshelf.
My five year old can be organized.
They are sized just right for baskets, bins, and buckets.
Display the pretty, disguise the ugly in coordinating containers.
They tidy up any room of the home.
They make Mama happy.
Cubbies are fun to build!!!

Thank you everyone for the positive feedback on the 9 Cubby Bookshelf I posted last week. Today, I am sharing a smaller version, more suitable for perhaps under a window or as a bedside table or in a child's room. I also love how Pottery Barn Kids lined up a few of their sold-out Morgan Cubby Bookshelves to hold books and toys in. The top becomes a great tabletop for a lamp, photo frames, or even more storage.

The 4 Cubby bookshelf is smaller, so by default, is going to be easier and faster to build. The construction steps are pretty similar, so I went ahead and added the video of the 9 Cubby Bookshelf if you would like to watch.

I'd also like to add a 6 Cubby Bookshelf Plan if anyone is interested. And of course the 4 Cubby plans follow! Enjoy!

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long
3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
Optional 2 1/4" base moulding (5 feet)
Optional shelf pins for adjustable shelves
Use either 1 1/4" pocket holes (with Kreg Jig) or 2" countersunk screws (with countersink bit)
Jigsaw is for decorative cuts
Mitersaw is for mitered corners on decorative base moulding

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

2 - 1x12 @ 31 1/4" (sides)
1 - 1x12 @ 28 1/2" (center divider)
1 - 1x12 @ 30 1/4" (top)
1 - 1x12 @ 28 3/4" (bottom shelf)
2 - 1x12 @ 14" (shelves)

FACE FRAMES
2 - 1x2 @ 30 1/4" (top)
4 - 1x2 @ 30 1/2" (sides)
2 - 1x2 @ 27 1/4" (bottom)
1 - 1x2 @ 27" (back, center - optional)

Cutting Instructions

Mark your boards because it will be very easy to mix up boards on this one!

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building your box. You can either use 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws or 2" countersunk screws and glue.

Step 2

Shelves can be added fixed or added with shelf pins as done in the video. The side notch outs are optional, and you can actually do this later on as well.

Step 3

Add back face frame.

Step 4

And then the front face frame. If your shelves are adjustable, do not nail to shelves.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 03/19/2012 - 05:38

I would be interested in seeing a 6 cubby as well as doors. I am looking to make something to replace an ugly hutch and was hoping for something about 35" high, 17" wide and 9' long (but can make multiple ones). This or the 6 cubby might work if it had doors.

Dr Watson

Mon, 03/19/2012 - 08:04

Thank-you. My partner loves cubby shelves, and keeps wanting to buy the retail, paticle-board versions. With your plans, I can convince her that doing it ourselves will provide higher quality and value. I was excited to see the 9 cubby version, but I knew I'd have to modify a build of it to be smaller. I'd certainly have interest in seeing a 6 cubby version of these plans as well.

Sammi (not verified)

Mon, 03/19/2012 - 16:17

Thank goodness! I was this close to making a trip to buy a similar one but made of that modular particle board stuff. Hopefully I can convince my hubby to assist in the build.

Mary B Robinson (not verified)

Tue, 03/20/2012 - 17:22

Hooray - I also want a 6 cubby shelf - it will be perfect for what I need!

Thanks!

imadok

Mon, 03/19/2012 - 19:28

I love love love all the cubby plans! I would love to see plans for an 8-cubby shelf, especially one that could be upright or on its side depending on changing needs. I know you already have a 6-cubby shelf plan somewhere on the site. Would this new one be very different? It seems like each cubby hole is a little bigger in this batch of plans than in the older batch, right?

Adam (not verified)

Sun, 03/25/2012 - 21:58

So, a 1x12 is 11.25" wide, and I'm only finding baskets around 13.75" deep. Is there someplace you can find baskets that aren't as deep, or do they stick out from the front of the shelf by a couple inches? Does it look funny? This is just what I'm getting drawing it in Sketchup. Also, I'm drawing a 12 basket unit (4 wide by 3 tall) to go under a bar height counter that we don't use as a bar.

In reply to by Adam (not verified)

leejae76

Thu, 06/28/2012 - 18:47

Pottery Barn Kids has some cute baskets in three colors - "Sabrina" is the name. They are 12x12 at the top, and I believe 9.5" at the base. They are pricey, but well made, and you can get cute liners...

Marrie C (not verified)

Sun, 05/27/2012 - 17:39

Hi love this design of the cubby storage. I had my own go at it, made it smaller for shoes, I am very pleased the way it came out, not perfect, but functions for what I need it for. The next one will be more like the one you made, with bigger cubbies. Love your site!!!

pilot1910

Sat, 11/17/2012 - 16:21

I had a tight space in the girls room. This plan worked out well with 4 inch boards for a shallow cubbie shelf. It holds small books and CDs.

pilot1910

Sat, 11/17/2012 - 16:22

I had a tight space in the girls room. This plan worked out well with 4 inch boards for a shallow cubbie shelf. It holds small books and CDs.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!