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18" Doll Mattress Sewing Tutorial

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Make your own doll mattress for American girl doll furniture and beds with this simple step by step sewing tutorial designed for beginners.

I'd be the first to tell you that sewing intimidates me.

Because a board does what I tell it too. And it stays straight when I cut it. Fabric, well, doesn't. At least not for me.

I've sewed doll mattresses before in the traditional "box cushion" style, which means cutting six different pieces of fabric, and then accurately sewing them together in a 3D box, with corners matching. It was never a fun or easy process.

But this time, Grace Grandma showed me something really neat. And 10 times faster. All you do is sew two squares of fabric together, and then you clip the corners with seams, and you've got a box cushion without all the fuss!

I could not believe how easy this doll mattress was to make for Grace's American girl doll. In this tute, I've included how to size for any size doll mattress (or even a dog bed or nap mat or floor cushion!) and you can skip the tufting to save steps.

Cut to size

Preparation

Shopping List

For one mattress finished size 10" x 19" I used:
1/2 - yard of fabric
Thread
Stuffing from recycled pillows and stuffed animals
Mix-matched buttons

Cut List

2 - Pieces of Fabric 2 1/2" wider and 2 1/2" longer than the desired finished mattress size (for 2" thick mattress)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Determining Size

Determine the desired length and width of your doll mattress. For Grace's American Girl, we decided to make the mattress overall 10" x 19" finished dimensions. This also fits the doll bunk bed (shown in photos and plans available here).
Then add 2 1/2" to each of these dimensions. For Grace's American Girl bed, the dimensions are 12 1/2" x 21 1/2". Cut two pieces of fabric to the determined measurements.

Sewing the Edges

Sandwich the two piece of fabric right sides together and pin. Baste with 1/4" inseams around all sides, leaving a 3" opening for inside/out-siding the doll mattress.

Step 2

Clip Stitching Corners

Now this a little tricky, but once you "get" it you'll breeze through. Open up the corners so the seams you stitched in step 1 are matched up, and the corner forms a 90 degree angle, with the seam down the center. Pin. Then line a ruler up with this seam and mark a 2" clip off the corner. Sew a seam right on the mark you made.

Grandma did the sewing on this one.  We are giving these mattresses away as a gift, and her sewing is so much better than mine.

Step 3

Seam Check

If done correctly the seam will look like the above diagram, and you can see the mattress taking on a box cushion like shape.

Step 4

Finished Corners

Once you have clipped seamed all four corners, inside outside the mattress and check your corners.  They should look like this corner.

Filling

You can fill the mattress with 2" thick foam, bean bag filler, or in our case, recycled pillow and stuffed animal stuffing. If you use pillow stuffing, fluff and fill but don't overfill.  Hand stitch opening closed.

Step 5

Step 6

Layout Buttons

Next, lay the buttons out in a desired pattern. Note that you will need twice as many buttons, for the top and bottom. Once you are happy, mark the location of the buttons on front and back.

Step 7

Pin Mattress

You will want to pin the mattress in multiple locations just to keep the mattress tops and bottoms from "moving" as you sew buttons on and ending up crooked.

Step 8

Sew Buttons

Then just start sewing the buttons on, one on top and one on the bottom.

Step 9

Admire Your Hard Work

Oh yeah, looking pretty!  Keep it up!

Step 10

Pillows and Blankets

With the remaining fabric scraps, Grace's Grandma made a blanket.  From her scraps from the 80's she found this quilted fabric and made a few pillows as well.  Just figure the finished dimensions, add 1/2" to length and width, cut and sandwich right sides together (step 1), inside outside and stuff.  

Step 11

No Buttons

And I wanted to show you that you don't have to have the buttons. You can make this mattress in just two simple step.
Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Doll Furniture
Room
Kids and Toys
Style
Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans

Comments

Tsu Dho Nimh

Fri, 08/12/2011 - 06:29

Oh yeah! Fake boxes. My favorite cushion technique.

If you are a perfectionist, you can sew a small tuck into the fabric from corner to corner to enhance the boxed look.

I combine that with an "envelope back" cushion cover, like used for pillow shams, where the back just overlaps. It makes nice couch cushion covers.

Cherie Heltne (not verified)

Fri, 08/12/2011 - 08:39

What fabric is that? It's amazing!

nealandlori

Sat, 08/13/2011 - 10:06

This project is more where my talent lies although I have high hopes of making the beds to put them on too. Last year I made all my girls in daycare baby doll diaper bags full of clothes, changing pads, etc. I love the idea of making them beds with mattresses and maybe blankets and rag dols to go with it. I'm very new to woodworking so we will have to see if I can figure it out well enough for gifts. I love your plans, so far on my first project very easy to follow. I can't wait to start on the baby doll stuff!

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 08/18/2011 - 13:06

This is how I made my Grandaughters (x4) mattress for their doll beds, except I did NOT use buttons. In the place of buttons I used embroidery thread and make tucks. The reason I did this is because of their ages, 4 - 14 months. I am in the process of making the beds to go with the mattresses. Did it a bit backwards because of the heat in my state. Trying to plan ahead for Christmas gifts!!!

Thanks for all you do Ana!!!

Loretta (not verified)

Wed, 10/12/2011 - 13:27

At our daughter's request my husband made the bunkbed for our granddaughter for Christmas, so of course I got out my sewing machine and made the mattresses -- twice!

For the first 2 mattresses I used your dimensions: 12-1/2 x 21-1/2. Got the mattresses all stuffed and found them to be too short for the bed by about 2 inches! Well, I wanted the mattresses to fill the entire space, so I made another set using my dimensions: 12-1/2 x 24, and they fit perfectly.

I think what you forgot to figure was those nice boxy corners actually take up an extra 2-1/2 inches on each end of the mattress. Anyway, just thought I'd pass this along for anyone else making them.

The first set of mattresses won't go to waste, as I figure that our granddaughter's dolls will need a place to sleep when they come down with her to spend the night! It's all fun isn't it?! Thanks for the pattern!

Dianne (not verified)

Sat, 11/10/2012 - 17:07

Hey Loretta,
I know what happened because I almost did the same thing. At first I printed out the PDF format which does not show pictures. I realized my mattress was going to be the wrong size. I went back and looked at the pictures. On step 2, you place your ruler across the triangle and slide it down until the bottom of the triangle from side to side measures two inches - not from top down. When you do this, from top down only measures one inch. Does this make sense? Look at the picture and you see the two inches are across the bottom not up and down.

ChelleWeezie (not verified)

Wed, 10/12/2011 - 14:29

Lorretta.. I just started these this morning, same day as your post. I have them cut and everything, one even sewn completely... then I get on and see what you wrote! Now I am in a panic. My husband hasn't built the bunk bed yet.

Loretta.. will you do me a favor and measure your beds inside length. :-)

Loretta (not verified)

Thu, 10/27/2011 - 14:53

Oh ChelleWeezie, I didn't realize that you asked for these dimensions, so I'm really sorry to take so long to reply.

Inside dimensions of the bunk beds are 19" x 9.5"

I made my mattresses extra fluffy, so that may be why the first ones I made were too short. (I'm really surprised that no one else ran into this problem.)

You could just not stuff them quite so full and that would probably work. Or maybe add a nice big doll-size pillow, or even roll up the doll's blanket and place at the foot of the bed if you want to fill up the space. Your daughter will love the bunkbeds in any case!

kyliandkatelinsmama

Sun, 10/16/2011 - 08:09

My husband built the bunk beds last night for our oldest daughter for Christmas. Thankyou so much ! It was an answered prayer to find your sight ! Money is so tight this year and she was just dying to have an American girl Christmas. I was able to get the doll but when I looked at the accessories I almost cried in the middle of the store !!! But we found this site when looking to see if we could find someone who builds them and sales them. It was his first project EVER and he did awesome, I am quite fond of him but I think he may even have a talent for this. But the part that brings me to tears is this custom doll bed which was sturdy enough for my husband to sit on set us back a whopping 15 dollars ! Now for the scarrey part, I am going to have to try to sew for the first time ! lol Thank you so much and God Bless you ! You saved Christmas for my eight year old !

Denise Wittenbach (not verified)

Tue, 01/03/2012 - 19:43

I just made the 'fancy' crib, bunk bed and mattress for all :) The girls couldn't decide on the fabric, so I used a pink fabric for one side and purple for the other! Super easy and quick!

susanr

Fri, 03/02/2012 - 06:27

I sew a lot and have never ever seen this!! This is going to be great for pillows on my bed, too!!

Andie Nichols (not verified)

Mon, 03/26/2012 - 11:52

if I was going to use an 1 1/2 '' thick matress instead of a 2 '"matress like the direction are shown - should I just subtract a 1/2 inch and only cut 2 pieces of fabric 2 inch wider and 2 inches longer than the desired finished matress instead of the 2 1/2 that is suggested for the 2" thick matress

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 04/10/2012 - 07:27

This is so cute. My hubby just made it for our grandaughter. I will be making the mattress and pillows and then ship it to her. Hubby was so proud of himself after he finished it. We will be painting it to match her decor in her bedroom it is Disney colors. Thanks Anna

K Coake (not verified)

Tue, 10/16/2012 - 20:54

Hi -
I wanted to first Thank you for this tutorial. It was really helpful to me and my mom as we worked on making bedding for my daughters American Girl Doll beds. I also wanted to let you know that I am doing a post about our making of the bedding and mattress we just made. I will be linking to this post as it was the inspiration for how to make our mattress. Here is the link if you want to see the reference to your site. http://realcoake.blogspot.com/2012/10/american-girl-doll-bedding-patter…. Once again, thank you very much for your helpful tutorial. Have a great night.

marcia siluch (not verified)

Mon, 12/17/2012 - 05:27

thank you for the awesome tutorial, just completed 2 of them.
marcia

Lauren Grimshaw (not verified)

Wed, 01/02/2013 - 20:47

I just finished making these mattresses for the bunk beds my husband is making. Thank you for such a simple method - I could not believe how quickly they were completed. I wanted to mention that I used coordinating bundles of 5 fat quarters (one bundle for the top bunk and one for the bottom) and used a different fabric for each side of the mattress so my daughter can flip it when she wants to. The fat quarters are 21", not the 21.5" required, so to compensate I just measured 1 3/4 inches for the clipped corners instead of 2 inches. They came out perfectly, and I used the other 3 fat quarters from each bundle to make both a double sided blanket and a pillow for each bed. It was an easy way to get a coordinated look!

gmom karen (not verified)

Sat, 01/19/2013 - 12:49

My son is making the bunkbeds and I the bedding from my grand-daughter's birthday. If you want to make this even easier, go in your linen closet and find those pillow cases that you hate to toss even though they don't match anything else. The width of case was perfect for the length of the mattress, I just cut off the right size and had only one seam to sew.

ladams1221

Sun, 11/15/2015 - 10:05

Hi, Ana - Love the doll bed & bedding. I just made them for my granddaughter. The bedding took about two hours total for two beds. As a professional dressmaker of 30+ years, (and a woodworker for about 20), I wanted to suggest an amendment to the instructions for the mattresses. If you measure down from the corner 2", and mark a line across the corner, that line/seam will measure approximately 4", thus making a 4" thick mattress - not the 2" one that is mentioned in the tutorial. Measure down 1" for a 2"-thick mattress, which fits the little bed nicely. Also, I changed the cut size of the mattress, adding 2" for the 2" you're taking away in height, plus the 1/2" seam allowance, plus an extra 1/4" just for good measure. My dimensions were 12" x 21¾" for a 2" high mattress. For the original 4" high mattress, add 4" plus the doubled seam allowance. After filling all the nail & pocket holes, I sanded, then I spray painted the bed using Zinsser 123 spray primer, followed by Krylon all-surface spray paint. It looked gorgeous! Thanks for the darling bed and bedding. It was the hit of the birthday party with all the little girls!

ladams1221

Sun, 11/15/2015 - 10:05

Hi, Ana - Love the doll bed & bedding. I just made them for my granddaughter. The bedding took about two hours total for two beds. As a professional dressmaker of 30+ years, (and a woodworker for about 20), I wanted to suggest an amendment to the instructions for the mattresses. If you measure down from the corner 2", and mark a line across the corner, that line/seam will measure approximately 4", thus making a 4" thick mattress - not the 2" one that is mentioned in the tutorial. Measure down 1" for a 2"-thick mattress, which fits the little bed nicely. Also, I changed the cut size of the mattress, adding 2" for the 2" you're taking away in height, plus the 1/2" seam allowance, plus an extra 1/4" just for good measure. My dimensions were 12" x 21¾" for a 2" high mattress. For the original 4" high mattress, add 4" plus the doubled seam allowance. After filling all the nail & pocket holes, I sanded, then I spray painted the bed using Zinsser 123 spray primer, followed by Krylon all-surface spray paint. It looked gorgeous! Thanks for the darling bed and bedding. It was the hit of the birthday party with all the little girls!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!