Toddler Farmhouse Bed

Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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You will be amazed at just how easy it is to build these cute little farmhouse beds. And how inexpensive! Designed to fit a toddler sized mattress, please read comments as your mattress size may differ and you will need to make slight adjustments for the best fit.

Collections
Dimensions
Toddler

Preparation

Shopping List

10 – 1×2 Boards, 8′ Long (about $1 Each)
1 – 1×3 Board, 8′ Long (about $1.50 Each)
2 – 1×4 Boards, 8′ Long (about $3 Each)
2 – 1×6 Boards, 8′ Long (About $5 Each)
2″ Screws
1 1/4″ Screws
1 1/4″ Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Putty
Sandpap

Cut List

Cut List for the Headboard
A) 6 – 1×4 @ 18 1/2″ (Center Panel)
B) 2 – 1×3 @ 18 1/2″ (Side Pieces for Center Panel)
C) 1 – 1×2 @ 26″ (Cut to measurement, headboard trim – cut 2 if you do not want a arch)
D) 1 – 1×6 @ 26″ (Cut to measurement, headboard header, use 1×2 if you do not want arch)
E) 2 – 1×2 @ 18 1/2″ (Inside Leg Pieces)
F) 2 – 1×2 @ 30″ (Full Legs)
G) 1 – 1×2 @ 29″ (Top of Panel and Legs)
H) 1- 1×3 @ 30″ (Top of Headboard)
I) 2 – 1×2 @ 6″ (Cut to measure, Inside bottom Leg Pieces)
Cut List for Footboard
J) 6 – 1×4 @ 9″ (Center Panel)
K) 2 – 1×3 @ 9″ (Side Pieces of Center Panel)
L) 2 – 1×2 @ 26″ (Trim for the center panel, cut to measure)
M) 4 – 1×2 @ 15″ (Legs)
N) 1 – 1×2 @ 29″ (Top of the Panel and Legs)
O) 1 – 1×3 @ 30″ (Top of the Footboard)
Bed Frame
P) 2 – 1×6 @ 54 1/2″ ( Side Rails)
Q) 1- 1×6 @ 26″ (Endplate)
R) 2 – 1×2 @ 53 1/2″ (Cleats)
S) 18 – 1×2 @ 26″ (Slats)

Cutting Instructions

Please read comments and be aware that I designed this bed off of crib sized measurements from my daughter's mattress. Your mattress may be of a different size, and you will need to modify the plans to fit your mattress. Many people have done this successfully - please take a second to read comments.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface. Check for square after each step. Predrill and countersink your screw holes. Measure and cut all your boards. Use straight lumber. Wear eye and ear protection. Always use glue.

Instructions

Step 1

Headboard Panel. Fasten the center panel boards, shown in green and blue above, to the bottom trim piece, as shown above. I recommend using the 1 1/4″ nails and glue, and fastening from the back into the back side of the bottom trim piece. Measure and cut the bottom trim piece to fit. Then if you are choosing to have an arch, cut out the arch and fasten the header to the center panel. If you do not want an arch, you can use a 1×2 board for the header.

Step 2

Inside Legs. Fasten the inside leg pieces to the sides of the center panel, as shown above. Use the 2″ screws and fasten to the header and the bottom trim, and the side panel piece.

Step 3

Outside Legs. Use the 1 1/4″ nails to fasten the full leg piece to the inside leg piece from step 2. Then use the 2″ nails to fasten the outside leg piece to the header and bottom trim.

Step 4

Top of the Panel and Legs. Use the 2″ nails to fasten the top piece, G, to the headboard. Measure and cut to fit.

Step 5

Step 6

Bottom Leg Pieces. Measure your 1×6 board to make sure it is exactly 5 1/2″ wide. Then use the above diagram to create a notch for the side rails. Use the 1 1/4″ nails and glue.

Step 7

Footboard Panel. Build the footboard panel, shown above, as you built the headboard panel in step 1.

Step 8

Inside Legs. Attach the inside legs using screws to the footboard panel as you did with the headboard panel in step 2.

Step 9

Outer Legs. Fasten the outside legs in place, as you did with the headboard panel. Use 1 1/4″ nails, and 2″ nails where there is more than 2″ of backing.

Step 10

Top of Footboard Panel and Legs. Measure and cut the top of the panel and legs, and fasten in place using the 2″ nails and glue.

Step 11

Top of Footboard. As you did with the headboard, fasten the top piece to the footboard as shown above.

Step 12

Side Rails and End Plate. Begin by fastening the side rails to the end plate using 2″ screws. Then use the 1 1/4″ screws to fasten the end plate to the footboard. Then use the 2″ screws to fasten the siderails to the headboard. The siderails will fit into the opening on the headboard.

Step 13

Cleats. Fasten the cleats to the inside of the siderails, as shown above. Use glue and the 1 1/4″ nails.

Step 14

Slats. As directed above, lay the slats on top of the cleats. Fasten in place with screws.

Comments

kim mangum (not verified)

Sat, 02/19/2011 - 20:42

Just built the farmhouse toddler bed. . . . . the 1 X 3 X 8 comes to 96 inches but the cuts come to 115 so be sure to buy a 10 footer instead of an 8 footer! undefinedBRYLEE QUILT AND BED 2 19 2011

shortermama (not verified)

Mon, 08/13/2012 - 17:31

We just finished this bed yesterday. We love it. I can't seem to find any bed-rails that would work though. Are there any plans or does anyone know of any that would work for this bed? Thanks so much!

Wood Worker (not verified)

Fri, 08/17/2012 - 15:27

This is a nice and easy toddler bed. After reviewing your assembly instructions; illustration 1 and 7 have considerable expansion and contraction issues. You never want to glue and screw or nail a perpendicular piece of wood to a vertical solid wood panel. This will not allow the panel to expand and contract during climate change and moisture variances. Which will lead to catastrophic damage to the toddler bed. When the wood finally gives, it will sound like a gun shot. Since this is a bed, theres a good chance it could happen during sleeping hours. One it will wake your child and two it will be frightening, plus you may or may not be able to use the bed again. Wood has tremendous force built up inside its grain; and when it cant move freely- disaster strikes.

You can correct this problem easy; only if you have not built the bed yet. You will need-
Head board
2 - 1" X 2" @ 26"
1 - 1" X 3"ish @ 26"
Instructions for head board only-

Attach both 1 X 2 to the 1 X 3 to form a 'U' shape when looking at the end grain (Glue and Screw). Slide the panel into the groove (Do not glue panels into the groove). Repeat steps for top of header. Attach sides only to the two U shaped caps with screws.

Repeat steps for Foot Board

This process will solve the expansion and contraction issues.

Take Care

Cazra

Thu, 08/08/2013 - 23:00

We made four head boards, and attached one set of the top finish pieces to the bottom of the legs. Then screwed through that to the bottom headboard set. My kids adored it and everyone we know wanted us to build one too!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!