Printer's Console Table

console table with storage
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This easy to build console table features large shelves behind doors.  The doors look like smaller drawers, for a vintage printers cabinet feel.  Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

Prepare yourself. You may have to drop everything you had planned for today. The dishes might just have to wait. Can you order pizza tonight? Because you are going to want to build this!!!!! This console was built by Ashley from Shanty2Chic from plans we worked on together that follow. From Ashley: I was so excited for Ana to get to work on the plans for this beauty! At about 10% of the cost, I was able to not only build a functional storage cabinet for our bedroom but I was able to customize it to our taste as well! This was a super easy build and I love how the planked doors give the illusion of drawers! Thank you Ana! Please stop over and check out Ashley's build post for tips, tricks, and lots more photos! Thank you Ashley! And if you can't drop everything today ... make sure you pin this plan for when you do have time to build it! Thank you!

Dimensions
dimensions for printer cabinet console table
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 2x2 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long
  • 2 – 1x6 @ 10 feet long
  • 2 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 sheet 3/4" plywood cut into strips 15 ¾” wide (referred to as 1x16 throughout plan) x 8 feet long
  • Optional back 1 ¼” PH screws
  • 1 ¼” brad nails
  • 2 sets euro style inset hinges or narrow profile hinges (installed in gap between door and face frame)
  • Optional ¼” plywood for back
  • 24 knobs or handles
Cut List

FACE FRAMES

  • 4 – 2x2 @ 35 ¼”
  • 2 – 2x3 @ 35 ¼”
  • 4 – 1x2 @ 26 ¼”
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 26 ¼”

DRAWER FACES

  • 10 – 1x4 @ 26”
  • 2 – 1x6 @ 26”
  • 10 – 1x2 @ 26”
  • 4 – 1x3 @ 30 ½”

BOX

  • 2 – 1x16 @ 56 ½”
  • 2 – 1x16 @ 33”
  • 1 – 1x6 @ 30 ¾”
  • 2 – 1x6 @ 27 7/8” (shelves)

TOP

  • 3 – 1x6 @ 59”
  • 1 – 1x3 @ 59”

BACK

  • 1 – ¼” plywood 58” x 33”
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

You'll want to build the face frames first so you can make sure those drawers fit in there good!

Step 2

And then build your doors to fit the openings. You can even attach with hinges and keep in place with catches. It will certainly be much easier to do this now than later!

REMEMBER what door goes in what opening :)

Step 3

IMPORTANT!!!! Before attaching ANY of the box pieces, drill ¾” PHs on front and back edges of all box pieces so you can attach face frame easily in later steps. Hide PHs on inside, underside or top of cabinet.

Step 4

Now attach those face frames to the box ....

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Add shelves if desired at desired locations.

Step 8

And then a back in desired.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

baklund

Mon, 08/20/2012 - 13:13

Any chance on adding plans to do drawers instead of doors?

Nicole 1016

Mon, 08/20/2012 - 14:44

I am wondering the same thing about thew drawers. This would be even more fabulous if all of those faux drawers were actually drawers!

lisah (not verified)

Mon, 08/20/2012 - 17:32

Oh my god. i might have to tweak the plans and only build it half-width to make bedside tables

Guerrina

Tue, 08/21/2012 - 11:12

Grabbed my attention RIGHT away! As with Lisah, I'd love for nightstands and with a bit more tweaking for a bathroom vanity in the full bath and a narrower version for my small dining room for linens and such! Ahhh! The possiblities!

Joni

Tue, 09/04/2012 - 17:12

I think the plans have a typo in them, and the last 2 items under the Cut List (for the box) should be changed from 1x6 to 1x16.

Crystal A (not verified)

Sat, 09/08/2012 - 21:34

I agree with Joni, the plans do look like they have a typo. Unfortunately, I've already made all my cuts, so I'm off to buy more 1x6's. Also, I think you will need 3- 1x3's, not 2. I made all the cuts as indicated, with little waste, and I'm short about 90" of 1x3 material
I'm excited about starting to put this together!

Runarc (not verified)

Sun, 11/18/2012 - 14:13

Also, don't you need to cut 4 2x2's at 26 1/4" instead of the 2 listed?

Brown (not verified)

Sun, 01/06/2013 - 15:54

I've only just started but I've noticed the typos as well. After my first two 2x2 cuts I only have 2 ends at about 25 inches left and the first cut list calls for two 26 1/4. Ha, I double checked with a calculator but it's right... they don't add up. So I think you'll need at least one more 2x2 or 2 longer than 8 feet. And I agree with the earlier comment... I think you need four 2x2's at 26 1/4, not two.

TeresaA

Sat, 03/23/2013 - 19:56

My husband is in the middle of the printer console. We made all the cuts together and according to plan, but now that we are putting it together, it seems that the center piece is too short and the front and back frames do not fit properly (step 4). When they are on, they are several inches off. Did anyone else come across this problem? We have double checked the cuts. We have run into a couple things on these plans, but I'd love some advice from a person that completed this project.

Jamaunzie

Sun, 03/24/2013 - 19:30

TeresaA
It is really hard to tell by your description but if I was to guess when you say to short on the center piece are you allowing for 2 ¼ inches space with your 1X16 @ 56 ½ off the Bottom of your box ? That could account for the Shortness. As for the Face frames go, The plans are a little confusing make sure you have the 1X2’s at the top and the 2X2’s on the Bottom of the Frames and there is a space from floor to bottom of 2x2 also. I not sure but from what I see there should be 4 – 2X2 @ 26 ¼ but the plans say just 2 I would double check
Hopes this helps

Weezie1987

Sun, 09/28/2014 - 07:21

Hi. I am currently building this cabinet as my first project. I'm wondering if I have gone wrong somewhere or is there a typo:

The space for fitting the door/drawers in the frame is  30 1/4inch in height, but the total of the planks that make up the doors come to 36 inch in height. (5 1x2, 5 1x4 and 1 1x6)

Has anyone else working on this project come across this, or have I been looking at it for too long that I've just comvinced myself that I've gone wrong (and that I need to go back to school to resit maths)?! haha!

Please help - it would be much appreciated as I am trying to prove to my boyrfiend that I CAN make this without his help haha! Thanks :)

Stephen Peters

Sun, 09/28/2014 - 15:49

Weezie, Your math is right on. The problem is with the "Lumber gods"!

The Lumber gods that sell lumber think that:

a 1x2 = 3/4" x 1 1/2"

a 1x4 = 3/4" x 3 1/2"

a 1x6 = 3/4" x 4 1/2"

They are selling you the lumber before it was cut with their saw and planed down to thickness.

Now do the math using "their" numbers and I think you will come closer. :) Even though it doesn't make sense.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!