Simplest Wood Chaise Lounge Chairs

wood chaise lounges built from plans and painted white
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Make your own wood outdoor chaise lounge for a fraction of the cost to buy! Free step by step DIY plans from Ana-White.com

Collections
wood chaise lounge plans side view
wood chaise lounge side tune reclined
wood chaise lounge plans one flat, one reclined
front view of wood chaise lounges
back rest for wood chaise lounge

These beautiful and inexpensive outdoor lounge chairs were designed by Ana White and built by Brook over at Being Brook 

We really wanted to make these chaise lounges very affordable, so they are 24" wide to conserve wood - made of 1x3s which tend to be significantly cheaper than their slightly larger buddies, 1x4s.

The frame itself is made of sturdy 2x6s, and we used a simple bolt for the hinge.  Can you see it?

To get the back to rest at different angles, there is notch-outs that fit a 2x4.

And then you can go into full recline mode and the stop block fits under the back legs!!!  

Of course we have the plans right here for you - but please, take a second and stop over and read Brook's post on building these lounge chairs and her tips and tricks!  Thanks Brook!

Dimensions
dimensional diagram for wood chaise lounge
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

2 - 2x6 @ 9 feet long (can be 9 foot studs)

3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

8 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long

2 – ¼” bolts 4” long with nuts and 6 washers

2-3/4” self tapping exterior wood screws

2” exterior screws or galvanized brad nails and glue to nail slats down with

Cut List

BASE

2 – 2x6 @ 85” - main frame sides

2 – 2x6 @ 21” - main frame front/back

16 – 1x3 @ 24” - seat slats

6 – 2x4 @ 14” - legs

2 – 2x4 @ 7” - legs

 

BACK

2 – 2x4 @ 32” - back frame

3 – 2x4 @ 17 ½” - back frame

7 – 1x3 @ 37 ½” - back slats

1 – 2x4 @ 24” (stop block)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Build your frames first. You can use 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws OR 2-3/4" countersunk screws.

I do recommend the PHs because it will hide your screws holes, making it easier to paint the pieces, and then attach later through the PHs.

NOTE: The diagrams show 2x4s.  We have updated this plan per user recommendations to use 2x6s for the frame.  

Notch out for the back support with a jigsaw.

Step 2

Next add your slats. You can also attach slats from underneath with PHs if desired.

Step 3

Attach legs, and then to front, attach second row of legs. Use 2 3/4" self tapping screws and glue here.

Multiple screws are recommended to keep the leg joints solid.

Step 4

These legs are just long enough to provide you a spot to put the stop block when chaise is fully reclined.

Step 5

Build the frame for the seat back as you did the main frame.

Step 6

Attach back slats to the frame.

TIP: Users have commented that it is easier to install the seat frame on the pivot bolt first, then add the slats later.

Step 7

Now we attach back to chaise with the pivot bolt.  The easiest way to do this for me was to clamp the pieces in place and drill through both the main frame and the seat frame.

 

NOTE: The diagram shows a 2x4 - we have upgraded this plan to recommend using a 2x6 instead. 

Step 8

Brook is also sharing with us her step by step finishing tutorial here to get this amazing finish!

Step 9

Here is the diagram for the stop block.

Comments

markw

Wed, 06/06/2012 - 12:33

What are the measurements/locations of the stop block notches in the base frame? The first step says to add them in a later step, but I'm not seeing that step - or did I miss something :)

Liquid6 (not verified)

Fri, 06/08/2012 - 06:37

You will need 2 - 1/4" bolts that are 4 inches long. You will need 2 nuts to match the threading on 2 bolts. You will also need 6 washers with 1/4" holes.

Start on the outside. Thread one bolt through a washer, slide the bolt through the whole on the outside rail, add one more washer, add the back of the chair, add another washer and then the nut on the end. This should allow the back to move independently.

May I recommend you use stainless steel hardware.

FlyingMatilda

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 11:59

Great plans! I'd love to see a modification for a little slide-out desk like the one from World Market! But if I had a great big stump, I'd use it for a side-table instead, too...totally cute. Great plans, wish I had time to do this this season...maybe next!

Theo Rioles (not verified)

Wed, 06/20/2012 - 04:19

hi--bought the 2.5" Kreg screws to affix the slats: went straight up through! set jig at 1.5"...

Theo Rioles (not verified)

Wed, 06/20/2012 - 05:23

hi--bought the 2.5" Kreg screws to affix the slats: went straight up through! set jig at 1.5"...

EleyAnn (not verified)

Mon, 06/25/2012 - 12:23

From someone whose big accomplishment this year was learning how to use a dremmel to build a pinewood derby car (cute but not fast), I have a few layman questions . . .

1. The plans provide specifications, but do not indicate the type of wood . . . does that matter?

2. Does the type of wood contribute to the life of the chaise lounger? Or do other things matter like stain/paint?

3. My husband is a big guy 220-240 lbs . . . provided I can actually build it correctly, will it hold his weight?

Thank youI love this site and if I can pull this off, I think I will double major in mommying and wood shop and build lots more stuff!

Tami220 (not verified)

Mon, 08/27/2012 - 10:15

These are great questions...was a reply ever sent? I wouold like to know the answers as well :)

Thanks
Tami

In reply to by EleyAnn (not verified)

jigganancy

Mon, 08/27/2012 - 11:13

1. The plans provide specifications, but do not indicate the type of wood . . . does that matter?
... usually, no.

2. Does the type of wood contribute to the life of the chaise lounger? Or do other things matter like stain/paint?
... if it's outdoor, yes. It's good to use cedar or pressure treated outside. Waterproofing staining is supposed to last longer than paint.

3. My husband is a big guy 220-240 lbs . . . provided I can actually build it correctly, will it hold his weight?
... when building your own furniture, sometimes its trial and error. My finance is about 200 lbs and sits on the chaise just fine. If you're really concerned, you might want to tweek the legs or the support with beefier wood like 2x4.

Tami220 (not verified)

Mon, 08/27/2012 - 10:16

These are great questions...were they aver answered? I would love to know myself...thanks :)

Tami

EleyAnn (not verified)

Mon, 08/27/2012 - 11:17

I am probably going to make this my winter project with my husband so that we have a lovely set come Spring/Summer out here in California.

If I get to it first, I will let you know Tami!

Eley :)

Elliott Strom

Tue, 06/11/2013 - 15:21

Hi Ana,
I just began working on this project for this week. And one thing I came up with that might be very helpful to anyone tackling this project is a detailed cutting diagram. Is there a way for me to post an image file or PDF file? This diagram helps to make sure all the pieces can be cut from the amount of lumber in the shopping list.
Thanks!

jennilynne16

Mon, 06/23/2014 - 12:54

I'm wondering what tool to cut the notches with? Specifically speaking, I don't have a jig saw, unfortunately. All I have is a circular saw and a sawz-all (sp?). I'm hoping that doesn't put this project on a "can't do" list for me. But I can't imagine how in the world to cut those notches with what I have.

papabear

Mon, 06/30/2014 - 22:07

all you need is a circular saw, a chissle, and a hammer.
Using circular saw cut through the wood in straight lines about a 1/4 to a 1/2 inches wide. next use hammer to knock out the wood t obe removed . finally use hammer and chissle to remove the rest of the wood in the notch and smooth it out with chssle for a good fit. i hope i have been of somehelp.

papabear

vickie458

Mon, 06/23/2014 - 16:12

hello can someone please help me I am stuck. I have the chaise lounge built, I'm having a hard time understanding how the stop block and notches work. Do you attach the block to the legs? The back of the chair? I'm really confused with the step.

dsipe

Sun, 05/17/2020 - 14:56

How do you get the stop block to fit when the chair is fully reclined with the new plans?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!