A Letter Shelf

Difficulty
Intermediate
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How to build a giant letter A Shelf with free plans from Ana-White.com

Hey builders!

I have a special treat for you today!

It's actually kind of a treat for me to.

I know you already know my friend Beth from Home Stories A to Z, right?

Just in case you don't, you can meet her here.

Well, Beth and I have been wanting to work on a project together for so so so long! And finally, we made it happen!

Beth wanted to create large letters A and Z above her children's beds (yes, their names start with A and Z). We've had a ton of requests for the giant A and Z letter shelves from you, so I suggested shelves!

So Beth went to her workshop ...

And made this!

I'll be sharing the plans for the standard sized A shelf below. But Beth wanted bigger letters to fit her space below, so she modified the plan and documented everything in her post. And she also posted step by step photos of the build, so please, go check it out!

And of course, we'll be adding the Z shelf soon too!

Thank you Beth!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown for A Shelf

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1/4” plywood 23 ½” x 29”
(for both A and Z letters buy a 1/2 sheet of 1/4" plywood)
1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
2” (could get away with smaller) finish nails and wood glue
Hanging Bracket/Hardware that attaches to back (try heavy duty hooks)

Cut List

1 – 1x6 @ 8” (long point to long point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
2 – 1x6 @ 4 1/2” (long point to short point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel)
2 – 1x6 @ 6” (long point to short point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel)
2 – 1x6 @ 30” (long point to short point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel)
1 – 1x6 @ 7 1/4” (long point to long point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
1 – 1x6 @ 10 5/8” (long point to long point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
1 – 1x6 @ 16 3/4” (long point to long point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
2 – 1x6 @ 5 1/4” (long point to short point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel)
1 – 1x6 @ 7 5/8” (long point to long point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
1 – 1/4" Plywood @ 29” x 23 7/8”

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

TIP - If you cut your back plywood first, you can use it as a template for assembling all the pieces! So lay the back plywood down, and then build on top of it - just be careful not to drip glue and stay inside the rectangle. I'd suggest marking centers as well to keep everything square and symmetrical.

Start by attaching the center to the two short legs.

Step 2

And now the leg bottoms - we are just working our way outward.

Step 3

And now the sides.

Step 4

And finally the top. Adjust here for square.

Step 5

Step 6

Now build the center piece.

Step 7

And attach it in place.

Step 8

Trace the letter on your plywood and cut out with a jigsaw. Attach to back.

Shelf will be heavy, so make sure you attach to a stud in the wall. My recommendation would be to add an additional 1x2 support at the very top and also very bottom, and screw directly into the wall.

Step 9

For hanging the shelves, I highly recommend adding some 1x2s inside the letter to give you something to screw directly into the wall into a stud in the wall. These shelves will be very very heavy and we don't want them falling off the wall! When you do hang it, it is very important to secure the structure of the letter (the 1x6s or the added 1x2 cleats) into a stud in the wall and use the appropriate hanging system for the weight of your shelf. Also consider added weight of shelf objects in hanging this shelf.

DISCLAIMER: This shelf will be heavy. Hang and use at your own risk.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Chris Sheppard (not verified)

Fri, 09/14/2012 - 09:31

Great job!!!!! I love this plan and will be making one for my Isabel. One small thing in the video….. The way that you crosscut the board initially is very unsafe. On a table saw of that size I don’t see a crosscut sled working out very well (At least not with mine). The only way to use a table saw fence and crosscut is to attach a small block of 3/4" plywood behind the blade and set your fence for 3/4" more than the required cut dimension. Start with your work piece against the plywood and push the wood through the cut with the miter gauge. This will make sure that the cut piece does not get pinched between the blade and the fence causing kickback. This is a pretty eye opening video that I found on the Kreg channel. It is not my intention to tell you what to do but I have seen what kickback can do to a person and would hate to see it happen to anyone. Here is the video it shows what happens when the work piece get caught. http://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4

Chris Sheppard (not verified)

Fri, 09/14/2012 - 09:32

Great job!!!!! I love this plan and will be making one for my Isabel. One small thing in the video….. The way that you crosscut the board initially is very unsafe. On a table saw of that size I don’t see a crosscut sled working out very well (At least not with mine). The only way to use a table saw fence and crosscut is to attach a small block of 3/4" plywood behind the blade and set your fence for 3/4" more than the required cut dimension. Start with your work piece against the plywood and push the wood through the cut with the miter gauge. This will make sure that the cut piece does not get pinched between the blade and the fence causing kickback. This is a pretty eye opening video that I found on the Kreg channel. It is not my intention to tell you what to do but I have seen what kickback can do to a person and would hate to see it happen to anyone. Here is the video it shows what happens when the work piece get caught. http://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4

Ali Smith (not verified)

Tue, 09/18/2012 - 10:00

Hi Ana,
I have discovered your blog and am officially addicted! I especially enjoy reading the updates on the Momplex.
But today I am glad my name starts with an A so I can make this shelf! I can't guarantee it will turn out anywhere close to your A or Beth's A but I will give it my best shot and hope for the best!
Thanks for your creativity and willingness to share it.

Ali

Deborah Lester (not verified)

Tue, 10/09/2012 - 12:14

Hi Ana:
LOVE the letter shelves! Would you consider creating plans for the letters G and N for my two little boys Nik and Gregor who share a room?

I am re-doing their rooms with your Storage Collection beds, built-in cubbies in their closet that I ripped out (my kids have no use for hangers so might as well make better use of a closet!). Have already redone my mudroom with your smiling mudroom plan with a few modifications. Ripped out my daughter's closet and did a built in desk, storage bench and wall shelves using your Brookstone collection for part of the plans. Love all of them. Now, if I didn't have to sleep, I'd get so many more of your projects done! Thanks for inspiring us moms to try something new!
Deborah

JK (not verified)

Fri, 12/21/2012 - 17:44

Curious as to how sturdy this would be without the plywood backing? I like the look of the shelves, but thought that might cut down on the weight. Not sure if you'll see this, but thought I'd ask! Thanks!

Bill Campbell (not verified)

Fri, 12/28/2012 - 06:24

Without the plywood backing, the shelf would be extremely weak. You would be much better off cutting down the weight by using 1/2" rather than 3/4" wood. Also, use glue along with the nails to attach the back; and since the whole thing is getting spray-painted anyway, don't use coated board for the back, as glue (and the paint, for that matter) may not stick anyway. Finally, I second the poster above who noted that the way she uses her table saw in the video is unsafe. The danger is compounded if the blade is tilted, because the workpiece is all the more likely to get jammed between the blade and the fence, and then thrown back in your face. It's shocking, really, that 3M's lawyers didn't step in, because there's a lot of liability involved. There are some really good table saw safety videos on the website of Fine Woodworking magazine.

*Silky* (not verified)

Fri, 01/18/2013 - 01:44

Right now I'm planning the redecoration of my sons' room. I will definitely using this idea! Their names start with an A and a B. I can use the A instructions and for the B I'm going to use the shape used in this font:

http://www.cubeecraft.com/blog/punched-out-font/

Check it out if you want to build a shelf for a curved letter.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!