Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

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Queen Size Farmhouse Bed

diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"


Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit


2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit


3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.



Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.


Calyn (not verified)

Fri, 08/10/2012 - 14:04

Just was wondering if you'd thought of doing plans for a matching dresser and chest of drawers? This bed plan is fabulous and will be perfect for the look of my master bedroom!

Lisa Bruchac (not verified)

Thu, 08/16/2012 - 11:30

Hi Ana, this is an amazing site.....I am so grateful I found you....I have one question: is this bed a platform bed or can you use box springs and mattress? Thank you...


Wed, 08/29/2012 - 12:12

Should I use Pocket holes to attach the legs to the panels? We recently built a bed for my son so I'm really into using the Kreg Jig if possible.

Byron Young (not verified)

Wed, 09/19/2012 - 17:33

Ana (or whoever might can help):

I'm having trouble when screwing my 4x4 posts to the panels. I'm getting a gap between them, and it might not be extremely noticeable, but I can actually see the screw in the gap. I am putting one end of the panel against a door, then I'm using a drill and pushing from the outside of the post into the panel. I thought by having a backstop and putting pressure against the post while drilling, I would avoid making a gap. I'm fairly certain I'm doing something wrong.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

USMCamp0811 (not verified)

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 06:55

Not sure exactly where the gap is but sounds like maybe your panels were not a full 6". I had a similar issue and just used some 1x2s to bridge the gap. If its not that big of a gap then you may also be able to use some wood filler to fill it. Hope that helped..

ONI (not verified)

Wed, 09/19/2012 - 20:37

Curious when screwing in post for legs do you drill 6 screws I'm line going down or in groups of 2s and does it matter ... Never built anything like this and willing to try can't find a twin bed I like for my girls

tjroll123 (not verified)

Fri, 09/28/2012 - 14:40

We are working on this bed right now. We have a king so we went with 1x8 (which are really only 7 1/4) but did 11 panels. It will work out perfectly because you need a little extra space for the side rails to go on the inside of the headboard. I am thinking of getting some side rail brackets so it makes taking apart and putting back together easier (although I never plan on moving but we will be replacing our carpet sometime in the near future). We are also making our headboard just a few inches shorter so it will look better under our window and making the footboard a little taller so the top of the footboard is above the mattress.

Jarod (not verified)

Wed, 10/10/2012 - 16:59

My wife found this and had me go to work, hasn't been to hard, although the more precision and high quality wood you put into it the better the result. Looking forward to finishing soon, can't wait to start the next project

Terra (not verified)

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 17:44

Hi! We are in the midst of building the king size bed and we are at a total loss. How do you attach the bed rails to the 4x4 posts? The actual pictures we saw, had the rails perpendicular to the 4x4 posts. How in the world did you do that? We want to finish this tomorrow so there is no time to order specialized products.

We are using slats because we do not have a box spring.

Suggestions? Attach to the inside of the post instead? Help... Pretty please.. and thank you for the great site!

Monica P. (not verified)

Tue, 11/06/2012 - 07:51

I'm no expert, but I think if you attach the rails to the inside of the post, your box spring (if you are using one) would not fit properly. The only thing I can think is to cut out space from the post large enough to nestle the siderail into, or (like you stated you don't want) get some hardware. I think you should order the hardware, it's easy to attach and it make your bed mobile if necessary.

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