Easiest Parson Chair Slipcovers

Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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The easiest slipcover pattern ever! Make the chair too!

Hi everyone!!!

 I hope your Mother's Day was lovely and full of appreciation. As a mother myself, I have huge respect and admiration for all mothers. Mom's give so much, give up so much, Mother's Day is a very special day for us to make sure our own Mom knows how much we love and appreciate her.

We had such a great Mother's Day weekend!

My present isn't quite done yet, so I can't spill all the details yet .... but I think you will be as excited about my gift as much as I am!  Oh I can't wait!

I've been wanting to share a little sewing project I did a while back.  Now I'm no pro at the sewing machine, but I think that's what you may like about this project.  It's so fast and easy anyone - even me - can make a parson chair slipcover in ten minutes.  And that's with directional fabric!

I made these parson chairs a year or so ago, and we love them!  But after a year of constant use, the fabric was starting to look a little dirty and old.  I didn't want to spend a ton of time making a slipcover, just something quick and easy to refresh the chairs.

So what I did was use one piece of fabric to make the seat/back/back and then another for the skirt!  So easy!

Once I figured out the pattern, the second chair slipcover only took me ten minutes to make!  And the stripes matched up perfectly!

You could use this pattern to make ruffled slipcovers, floor length slipcovers, or just little short ones.  

This slipcover is designed to fit the parson chairs linked to in the plans. You can adjust for any parson chair with a straight back.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 yards fabric per 2 chairs, 45" (I use decorator weight)
thread and notions
sewing maching
cutting board and rotary cutter
pins

Cut List

Per chair:

1 - 20" x 48 1/2" Fabric
2 - 45" x skirt length

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

UPDATE: The first, FIRST thing you have to do is make the chair.

The first thing is to cut your fabric. I made two chair slipcovers, and because I used directional striped fabric, I layed out the pieces as shown in the diagram. If your pieces do not have a direction, you could lay them out differently. Also, I made my skirts 12" long - you can make your skirts any length with 18" being floor length. From 45" wide fabric, you will need to cut two strips per chair.

Step 2

Take the main seat/back piece and fold it over with right sides together so the fold overlaps 16 1/4". Pin and stitch with 1/4" inseams along edge.

At this point, I recommend fitting the slipcover over your chair to make sure the fit is right. If you are satisfied, remove and then clip in 1" at base of fold over as shown in diagram.

Step 3

Then fit slipcover back on chair, still with wrong side facing outward. The corners will come to a point as shown in picture. Pin and draw a line over the excess fabric as shown in photograph. Remove and stitch over line. Clip off excess fabric leaving 1/4" for seam allowance.

This completes the seat/back! Turn so right sides are out and fit over chair. Now all we need is the skirt!

Step 4

For the skirt you will need a long strip. Sew the two strips together to create this long strip using 1/4" inseams as shown in diagram.

Step 5

Step 6

Now we just got this back piece of the skirt to figure out. No biggie. What I did was sew the two skirt ends together first. Then I found the center of the back piece and matched up with center back seam of skirt and pinned. Then I pinned excess fabric into a kick pleat with right sides together. And then I just stitched it all up. Super easy.

Step 7

And then I just hemmed the entire skirt by pressing under and stitching. You could even hem before attaching skirt to seat/back but I wanted an opportunity to adjust the hem if necessary.

And that's it!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Moppet

Tue, 04/26/2016 - 10:05

I'm confused by the 1" cut that has to be made. What is this for? I am covering a different chair so I guess it needs to be a different length cut?

CSaintD

Wed, 04/27/2016 - 08:04

The 1" cut is so you get a box shape at the corner of the chair. If your chair is wider, you may want to stitch in further giving you a bigger box shape. I would suggest trying it on a scrap piece of fabric and seeing how it works before sewing and cutting the actual piece.

Paticohairs

Wed, 07/27/2016 - 12:57

do I have to cut a separate pattern piece for the place where one sits? (Square piece). I'm a little confused. Or do I make the back piece of chair long enough so that the back piece reaches over to the front? Thanks so much!! 

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!