Frequently Asked Questions
Wood Questions
What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!
Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.
What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.
What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.
Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.
Cutting Questions
Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.
How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.
Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.
Joinery Questions
What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.
Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.
How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.
Finishing Questions
Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.
What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.
How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.
Plan Questions
Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.
Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.
Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.
General Questions
What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.
Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.
What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!
What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.
I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.
Care & Maintenance
How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.
How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.
How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.
Want to Build with Confidence?
Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.
Still Have Questions?
Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!
Comments
Guest (not verified)
Tue, 03/13/2012 - 12:41
Doors?
Do you think it would be terribly difficult to add doors? We moved into a townhouse with an itty, bitty kitchen and I need some overflow storage. I like that these are adjustable. :)
DH is a bit OCD though and will not be ok with my crockpot and cans out for all to see!
engineering guide (not verified)
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 06:45
re
no it would be easy
michael_b101
Wed, 02/03/2021 - 06:01
doors & adjustment.
might need to add 1x14" as top and bottom to get that 3/4" overhang for the doors to fit well?
Also seems like all of the 40-ish boards would require quantity 4 not 3?
babysteps
Tue, 03/13/2012 - 13:18
Lovely Photo
Is the photo going to be featured in your book? It should be.
Oregon SuNsHiNe (not verified)
Tue, 03/13/2012 - 13:57
Ana White TV Show in the future?? :-)
Amazing! I love how you know what I need at the moment I need it. And a video like this is wonderful, and you're very tv-genic :-).
how fast is 4g (not verified)
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 06:43
re
Youre so cool! I dont suppose Ive learn something like this before. So very good to locate somebody with some exclusive concepts on this subject. realy thank you for beginning this up. this internet site is something that is needed on the net, somebody with somewhat originality. valuable job for bringing something new to the internet!
claydowling
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 06:55
Nailing options
I've experienced the pain first hand of nails from a brad nailer that pull out. I didn't know about glue coated nails. Those might be necessary for a future project.
If you don't have a nailer, I read a good article a couple weeks ago about using cut nails: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/…
They're supposed to have a better gripping power than a regular nail. The article also has some good points about how to choose the right nail for the job, something I'd never known before. I'll be picking up a box of the trim nails with my next Lee Valley order.
Guest (not verified)
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 07:49
The color purple
You really like your purple long tee don't you?
Cindy from Indiana (not verified)
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 09:56
Any color looks good on Ana!
Listen, Ana could present these projects in a potato sack and look fabulous!
There aren't too many who can wield a power tool or two, build great looking stuff with seemingly no effort and still look drop dead gorgeous.
Love ya, Ana! Love your site! Love your projects! Keep up the great work.
In reply to Any color looks good on Ana! by Cindy from Indiana (not verified)
Ana White
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 10:38
Hi Cindy, thank you! Really
Hi Cindy, thank you! Really appreciate the nice comment!
In reply to The color purple by Guest (not verified)
claydowling
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 10:31
Power tools are the secret
She had us all at power tools. At least the guys. We never look past the drill.
In reply to The color purple by Guest (not verified)
Ana White
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 10:36
Living up here in remote
Living up here in remote Alaska, all my clothes has to be ordered, and I own like maybe 10 tops I wear repeatedly ... and I tend to stick to the same colors because sending clothes back is so inconvenient :( And yes, I like purple :)
Guest (not verified)
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 13:37
I apologize, I didn't intend
I apologize, I didn't intend to sound mean. It was just an observation, in that purple must be in your top favorite colors.
It just goes to show that I visit your site often enough to make comments on your clothing.. apparently you're doing something right..
Ana. (not verified)
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 16:27
I apologize too did not mean
I apologize too did not mean to come off so defensive! What is up with me??? Thank you for reading and visiting!
Lol I'm actually wearing the purple top right now!
bhoppy
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 19:08
I love purple:-)
You always look like a supermodel Ana:-) Even in cold weather gear!!
Guest (not verified)
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 19:20
Ana I find that when I use my
Ana I find that when I use my kreg jig pocket hole thingy that the wood splits when I am attaching the screws. Am I putting the holes too close the end or am I putting the screws in too far? Thanks for you help.
claydowling
Thu, 03/15/2012 - 04:38
Over-tightening
Chances are you're over-tightening the screws. If that's a persistent problem for you, try switching to a doweling jig and use dowel tenons to attach your joints. It's a little harder than a pocket hole jig, but not a lot, and it won't split out the wood. Most hardware and home improvement stores sell doweling jigs.
If you want to go really hard core, you could learn to cut dados and rabbets to capture the uprights in the top and bottom. That takes more expensive tools, but is very strong and will look very sharp. You can cut those with a router, which is expensive, or a hand saw and a chisel or router plane. I've done both and found the hand tools easier for getting a good accurate cut. Plus, it's just fun to watch the wood roll away from the chisel.
bhoppy
Thu, 03/15/2012 - 07:42
RE: wood splits
My wood split on the dream dollhouse project that I made... Like you, it was normally when the holes were drilled too close to the end. I just put wood glue where it split and clamped it til it was dry. Then sanded it down before painting it. I redrilled the holes on the second floor so they were about 2 inches from the end and it made a world of difference.
Tina Garza
Thu, 03/15/2012 - 11:18
No need for Ikea
I was just about to buy the cube self from Ikea but I wasn't happy with the thought of that. I love your version so much better. I love the adjustable selves. And I can make it the exact size that I want it to be. You always come up with what I need. First I need to build a storage self in my daughters room for her books, tv, and toys. That should be really easy with this same method. BTW I love your new videos!! You are so encouraging!!
MarisolinAustin (not verified)
Thu, 03/15/2012 - 14:22
Too Cool!
Seriously, could you be any cooler? Awesome website! Can't wait to try this!
Daly @ ShadeSeed (not verified)
Fri, 03/16/2012 - 07:49
Instead of doors
I would simply put a nail at each side of the opening and tie a piece of rope on them, so that I can hang a cute little curtain to cover the inside.
Guest (not verified)
Sat, 03/17/2012 - 12:46
Thanks for the videos!
I really appreciate you posting videos here and there about the projects. It really gives me the visual boost needed to accomplish jobs. I recently bought a kreg jig but have yet to use it. Seeing someone else handling one really helps me see how its done. Maybe I can attempt something when the kids go to bed tonight :) Thank you so much for your site.
Guest (not verified)
Sat, 03/17/2012 - 14:42
Cut list error?
Ana,
Great project, I'm hoping mine turns out as nice. Just a note, your cut list doesn't mention the two inside 1x12's, it looks like they are 42 3/4 long?
ferbit
Fri, 03/30/2012 - 09:44
Ana, what kind of wood...
Ana, what kind of wood did you use for the 1x12 boards? In your video, you mentioned using poplar for the trim - which I'm definitely doing.
Did you use poplar for the 1x12's as well or did you use a softer wood there? I am heading to HD (either today or tomorrow) to buy wood for a tall version of this (2 cubbies wide x 4 cubbies tall). So kind of a mix of your two plans put together. :)
Pine is cheaper, so that's why I was wondering. :) The whole thing will be painted so mixing the woods won't be that big of a deal. Just curious what you used in your video.
solomonson
Fri, 04/13/2012 - 12:33
Does anyone know how I could
Does anyone know how I could attach this to the wall?
claydowling
Fri, 04/13/2012 - 14:56
A cleat
If you want to hang it on the wall, there are a couple of things you can do:
1) A french cleat makes it easy to move. http://www.newwoodworker.com/frenchcleat.html These are great for cabinet systems in workshops or craft rooms, because it's easy to rearrange your cabinets as your needs change.
2) You could screw through the back and into studs with very long screws. There are special cabinet screws that are designed not to pull out easily. I think I've seen them at Lowes and Home Depot, but I'm not sure.
solomonson
Sun, 04/15/2012 - 11:58
Thanks for the link, I took
Thanks for the link, I took at it and it looks like something to add to the arsenal. I assume for the second option that you're talking as if I added a back to it.
ktkadoo (not verified)
Tue, 05/22/2012 - 09:34
Is it possible to just make
Is it possible to just make this without a pocket hole drill? Can you just use regular screws? I definitely can't afford to buy one right now, but we do have a regular drill.
Joyful (not verified)
Sat, 12/29/2012 - 17:44
Smaller KregSet
I just wanted to let you know I use a small Kreg jig that only cost around $35' I have to use separate clamps but until I can get the mack daddy master set I will use this one.
Doris R (not verified)
Mon, 06/04/2012 - 20:44
How do you think you would modify to do a step cubby bookcase?
You are so inspiring! We want to build a couple of step cubby bookcases (something like this: http://fromthesourceny.com/blog/2010/05/railroad-step-shelving/). the plan is to have a left and right shelfing unit with a space between to divide our loft into an office area and a sitting area.
Can you give a few pointers on how you would modify the plans to do the steps?Thanks again for your great website!!
Doris
Saved By Grace (not verified)
Sun, 11/25/2012 - 11:34
Shelf Pin Jig Holes
Did anyone else build this using the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig? I am in the middle of building this project now, and on the two 1 x 12's in the middle of the bookshelf, you end up with holes that go all the way through the board when you drill both sides. I didn't see anything about this issue on the Kreg site or in this post, so I was wondering if this happened for anyone else? Maybe no one else considers this an issue? Or maybe it won't really be very noticeable?
Saved By Grace (not verified)
Sat, 12/22/2012 - 10:19
Just wanted to let people
Just wanted to let people know that I "solved" this "issue" by adjusting the fence on the jig. I used the 1" inset for the two outer columns, and the 2" inset on the middle column.
Eric (not verified)
Fri, 12/21/2012 - 16:24
Help! What Am I Missing??
First, I love this website!
Second,
I purchased the materials and tools listed above, made all the cuts and was ready to start pre-drilling holes using the Kreg Jig when I noticed something.
None of the steps ever mention the two center vertical boards. The ones the shelves actually need to sit on. I was looking around like I had lost a whole 1x12 wondering what I did wrong. The materials list says you only need three 1x12x8 and none of the cuts listed mention the two 42 3/4 inch center boards. Did I read something wrong or do I need to go buy a fourth 1x12x8? I hate having to stop right in the middle when it was going so smoothly.. Thanks!
Saved By Grace (not verified)
Sat, 12/22/2012 - 10:15
Hello Eric, Yes, you do need
Hello Eric,
Yes, you do need four 1 x 12 x 8's because the cut list does not include the two inside boards. I ran into the same problem and I tried to send Ana a message through the Facebook page, but I probably should have left a comment on here as well, sorry!
cubroadcastgrad
Tue, 03/19/2013 - 07:31
Ditto!
I ran into this problem as well, but it was a quick fix and got everything went smoothly after that. Finished assembly yesterday, and will begin sanding and painting tonight!
Love the site Ana!!
Joyful (not verified)
Sat, 12/29/2012 - 17:37
Love this site!!!
I am totally loving this site. Way to go Ana! I am in the process of building this cubby shelf and I love the plans available. Thank you for all you do!
Rajesh (not verified)
Wed, 01/02/2013 - 19:33
Joining instructions
The box frame picture seems to indicate that the top rests on the side panels , however the pocket holes seem to attach from the top towards the side panel. Should it not be the other way around?.
In reply to Joining instructions by Rajesh (not verified)
Saved By Grace
Wed, 01/02/2013 - 19:37
Yes, you should put the
Yes, you should put the pocket holes on the vertical boards, not on the top.
Rajesh (not verified)
Sun, 01/06/2013 - 09:53
Pocket hole on vertical board.
Hello Saved By Grace.
Thanks for the suggestion. Just wondering if the joint would last long if the pocket hole were put on the vertical board. The reason I say that is because
the pocket hole will be the direction of pull (if one were to lift it move etc..)
I am considering reducing the lenght of the top horizontal board to 431/2 inches
and also reducing the middle vertical boards by 42 inches. Will update when
done.
In reply to Pocket hole on vertical board. by Rajesh (not verified)
Saved By Grace
Sun, 01/06/2013 - 11:08
I hadn't thought of that, and
I hadn't thought of that, and I am not sure if one way is better than the other for that purpose. I built it with pocket holes on all vertical boards, and I also used glue. Because the unit is also fully framed, it is extremely strong/sturdy.
Vblunt
Wed, 10/30/2013 - 01:36
Shelf size
Hey Ana...not sure if I missed it but what are the measurements and size of wood used for the actual shelves?
ant17r
Tue, 02/18/2014 - 19:41
Shelf-Pin holes and Paint???
Can anyone who painted this project lend some advice as to which you did first and why...paint or drill the shelf-pin holes? My concern for painting first is the possibility of maring the painted surface when drilling the holes. Conversely, I'm worried about drilling the shelf-pin holes first and then having the holes get "filled" with paint and having to take the time to clean each and every one of them out! Not sure if this is really an issue but I've never used shelf pins so I just want to make sure.
By the way...for a beginning woodworker (and advanced woodworkers I'm sure) this site is incredible! Thank you so much for the valuable tips, videos, and plans. Top notch!
Kate_14
Wed, 01/03/2018 - 12:30
Shopping list error
Hello,
When I plan my cutting list, I calculate 4 1x12 instead of 3...
Can't wait to build this!
jen12
Mon, 01/15/2018 - 16:04
I started the large cubby
I started the large cubby bookshelf project and the shopping list calls for 3 1x12 @8 ft long. By the time I made the required cuts 2 @ 45 1/2", 1 @ 45", 1 @ 43 1/2" and 2 @ 42 3/4" for the box I had used up all 3 1x12's. Is that a typo and you're suppose to have 4 boards? Now I don't have wood for the shelves and I'm hoping I didnt do that wrong.
johnnnnn
Fri, 08/09/2019 - 19:09
carpentry
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eimomma
Wed, 11/18/2020 - 10:34
ran out of wood!
I had to go buy another 1x12 for the shelves. Perhaps the buy list should read 4-1x12's instead of 3?
roaddawg3
Sat, 06/26/2021 - 12:26
Buy an extra 1X12
The plan shorts you one 1X12X8. Three 1X12s will make the unit, you need an additional 1X12 to make the shelves.