Lydia Queen Bed

lydia queen bed
Difficulty
Intermediate
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The Lydia bed in a queens size! This plan modifies the Lydia Daybed into a queen size. Recommended use with box spring.

VIRTUAL BUILDING
So to cure my case of the buildies for the Lydia Bed, I thought I would draw up plans for the queen sized bed.  The queen is a just a tiny bit different than the daybed, only in that the headboard is taller, and of course the dimensions are scaled for a queen.  Like this bed from Pottery Barn.

LYDIA QUEEN
The bed above is shown with a box spring and a mattress.  I love this bed!  

LYDIA DAYBED
Here is the original daybed in a twin sized.  Plans are here. In fact, because plans are so similar, just follow the Lydia Daybed Plans and I will give you a new cut list and shopping list (because I really want to get back to the pressure cooker  :)  ).

Dimensions
lydia queen bed plan
Overall Dimensions and composition are shown above. For a paint grade bed, use MDF and pine boards. For a stain grade bed (rustic) use A1 plywood and pine boards. For a stain grade bed, hardwood, use A1 plywood in your choice of hardwood for both the headboard and footboard panels AND the siderails, and hardwood boards and moulding for the trim and legs.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 – Pieces of 2 1/4″ moulding, 7′ Length 

4 – Pieces of 2 1/4″ moulding, 11′ Length (same as above, just longer)

2 – 1×10, 8′ Length (or cut your siderails from the plywood)

2 – Sheet of 3/4″ MDF or A1 Plywood

4 – 1×2 Boards, 8′ long

19 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ long

Wood Filler

Wood Glue

1 1/4″ Nails 2″ Nails

1 1/4″ Screws Pocket Hole Screws for Kreg Jig ( 1 1/4″ length)

Sandpaper

Finishing Supplies (paint, etc)

Cut List

1 – 3/4″ MDF @ 61 1/2″ x 27″ (Footboard Panel)

1 – 3/4″ MDF @ 61 1/2″ x 38″ (Headboard Panel)

2 – 1×2 @ 34 1/2″ (Footboard End Legs, ends tapered in step 1)

2 – 1×2 @ 45 1/2″ (Headboard End Legs, Tapered in step 1)

2 – 1×3 @ 58 1/2 (Bottom Panel Trim)

2 – 1×3 @ 34 1/2″ (Footboard Side Legs, ends tapered)

2 – 1×3 @ 45 1/2″ (Headboard Side Legs, ends tapered)

2 – 1×3 @ 63″ (Top of Panels)

2 – 2 1/4″ Base Moulding @ 58 1/2″ (Trim for outside of panel)

2 – 2 1/4″ Base Moulding @ 61 1/2″ (Trim for inside of panel)

4 – 3/4″ MDF @ 15″ x 15″ (Scalloped Sides)

2 – 1×10 @ 80″ (Siderails)

2 – 1×2 @ 80″ (Cleats)

14 – 1×3 @ 60″ (Slats)

4 – 2 1/4″ Moulding @ 78″ (Siderail Trim)

Cutting Instructions

MONEY SAVING TIP Because you will need to purchase 2 sheets of plywood or MDF for this bed, you could have your siderails cut from the plywood, cutting 1 siderail from each sheet of plywood. Remember that the plywood needs to be strong, and I would hesitate to use MDF for the siderails (unless you are using a box spring).

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please reference the Lydia Daybed plans for additional diagrams and step by step building instruction.

Instructions

Step 1

Comments

Carisa Knox (not verified)

Thu, 06/17/2010 - 02:20

Ihave been following your blog for a little while now and I have to say you are so incredibly talented. I love that you have done what I have always wanted to figure out how to do. Math is not my strong point but coming from a family of contractors it's in the blood to want to make everything vs buying expensive pieces. You make it so simple and enoyable.
This bed in particular is absolutely gorgeous!!! I'm thinking that we need it in our bedroom and our bed frame can move to the guestroom.
Is there any chance you would be willing to draw up plans for PB Classic Double Sink Console for the bathroom at some point in the furture? I would love to see what you come up with!
Again, great job on the bed. I can't wait to send you pictures of the projects I complete!

Galo Fab 5 (not verified)

Thu, 06/17/2010 - 07:05

I've been dying to make this bed for my little girl. Now to actually see it made just makes me want to even more! I'm in love!

Jana (not verified)

Thu, 06/17/2010 - 10:21

I'll trade you some chicken for some salmon :)
Jana

Gorgeous Bed....
My husband and I are making our first project Friday (tomorrow)..the farm table. I don't think I'll be able to sleep tonight-I'm so excited. the table he wanted was from Costco -$1000 for a high table and 8 chairs. I'm going to spray our existing chairs black and the table black too.

Donna@Affordab… (not verified)

Thu, 06/17/2010 - 17:24

Thank you so much for the wonderful projects and instructions. You truly are inspirational! Please don't ever stop!!!

Kylee (not verified)

Fri, 06/18/2010 - 10:13

Ana - Love your blog! I grew up in Washington state, now I live in California. My friends are shocked when I tell them that I'm OVER salmon! I think I've had enough to last a lifetime!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!