Dynamic Raised Garden Bed Plans

DIY raised garden beds large
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Straightforward plans for “dynamic” raised garden boxes that allow easy reach at convenient height. The beds provide a wooden backdrop that you can line with chicken wire or similar to provide support for tomatoes, vines, and other plants. The garden beds are large - approximately 14’ x 7’ The plans are forgiving, so if you’re hardware store cuts your lumber, their accuracy should be good enough.  Finished photo submitted by Doshepherd

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Dynamic Raised Garden Bed Plans

14' length x 7' width x 3' height (5' height optional backdrop)

Preparation

Shopping List

Chicken wire or hardware cloth is optional but not necessary. A box of 3" screws.

Common Materials
3 inch screws
Cut List

Cut list: • 12 – 2x12 at 4’ (front) • 3 – 2x12 at 6’ (front) • 6 – 2x12 at 6’9” (left and right sides) • 6 – 2x12 at 7’ (back) • 1 – 2x12 at 3’ (joint support for back wall) • 6 – 4x4 at 3’ (mounting posts) • 2 – 2x4 at 3’ (joint supports) Optional backdrop: • 5 – 2x4 at 5’ (backdrop posts) • 2 – 2x2 at 7’ (backdrop top)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Drill
Circular Saw
Level
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Lay the 4x4’s on the ground and then lay the 6’9” panels on top of them. Align the edges of the panel boards on the 4x4, and carefully attach them into the 4x4 post, using six screws per panel board (three screws for each side). Then repeat for the other side. You should end up with something that looks like this:

Step 2

This is probably the trickiest step. First, you’re going to need to align the panel boards (2x12’s) along the 4x4. Attach the 2x12’s to the 4x4, just like you did the last one.

Here’s where it gets tricky. You’re going to lay the 4x4 on the ground so the panel boards are sticking up in the air. Then you’re going to lay the 2x4 along the top of the panel boards (it will help a lot if you have someone there to hold the boards in place). Make sure that the 2x4 is sticking out in the opposite directio of the 4x4 (see below). Carefully screw the 2x4 to the 2x12’s. This will provide necessary joint support in a few steps.

Step 3

This is probably the trickiest step. First, you’re going to need to align the panel boards (2x12’s) along the 4x4. Attach the 2x12’s to the 4x4, just like you did the last one.

Here’s where it gets tricky. You’re going to lay the 4x4 on the ground so the panel boards are sticking up in the air. Then you’re going to lay the 2x4 along the top of the panel boards (it will help a lot if you have someone there to hold the boards in place). Make sure that the 2x4 is sticking out in the opposite directio of the 4x4 (see below). Carefully screw the 2x4 to the 2x12’s. This will provide necessary joint support in a few steps.

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Start by aligning the front panel edge with the side panel as shown below. It will
help if you have a friend hold up the panels as you attach them. You will use 6
screws to attach each front panel board to the side panel. Start with the top panel
board. Drill three screws along the edge of the panel board so that they pierce the
front panel board and the side panel board. Then drill a parallel set of three
screws through the panel board so they pierce the front panel board and the 4x4
post (see arrows). This will make your garden boxes more secure. Repeat for the
other two front panel boards. Then complete the other side in similar fashion.

Step 7

Draw a line down the center of the 3’ 2x12. You will line your panels up along this line as shown below. Keep in mind that, for this step, it is easier if you place your 6 panel boards on the ground, line them up, and then place the 3’ 2x12 joint support on top of them, then drill through the 3’ joint support board and into the panel boards to attach them. Use 3 screws in a zigzag to attach each panel board to the support joint.

Step 8

Start by aligning the edge of the back panel along the side of one of the side panels. You will start by attaching the top panel board from the back panel to the side panel. To do this, you will use two rows of screws (similar to Step 5) to attach the back panel to both the side panel boards and the post. Work your way from the top panel board down to the bottom panel board and then repeat for the other side. When you finish, you should have your complete garden boxes!

Step 9

Start by marking each of your 5’ boards. You will measure 2’ from one end, and draw a line. This is the line you will line up with your garden boxes. You can either line it up so that 3’ stick up for the backdrop or so that 2’ stick up for the backdrop. Just make sure you’re consistent and do them all either 2’ or 3’.

For now, we’re going to do the easier one: 2’ sticking up from the back of your box. Start by aligning the 2” edge with the left side edge of your back panel. Align the line you marked with the top of the garden box so that 2’ stick out of the top. Have someone hold this, while you attach it with at least three screws spaced somewhat evenly.

Now go to the other side of your garden box and align the edges similarly. Using your line level, make sure the top of this backdrop post is level with the post you just attached. Once you’ve made sure it’s level, attach the post.

Leaving the line stretched between the two posts, align the third post with the center joint on your back panel and attach. Now, measure 3.5’ from the left side and make a mark. Measure 3.5’ from the right side and make a mark. Align your last two backdrop posts with these marks, check that they’re level, and attach.

Once your five posts are level and attached, you will lay your 2 7’ 2x2 toppers on them. They will butt up against each other on the center of the center 5’ post. Once you have them lined up, attach them by drilling two screws through the 2x2 per post.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
If you're planning on planting veggies to eat in these boxes, I suggest not finishing them (at least not the inside) with a paint that can leech chemicals into your food. If you're worried about their durability, consider building them with cedar or another type of hearty wood.

Comments

LittleFarmBigCity

Thu, 02/07/2013 - 11:41

Hope y'all enjoy my first set of "real" plans not drawn on a scrap piece of paper or impromptu. I'm hoping to build these myself sometime soon. Please let me know if you have any questions about the plans. I'd love to see a picture if someone else builds them!

smacneil

Mon, 05/06/2013 - 06:05

I love this idea for my backyard. It will give me some much needed privacy screening between competing Jack Russels across the fence line.

a few questions: 1- do you need to dig the posts into the ground or do you just sit it on the ground and start filling?
2- that structure is strong enough to handle being filled up with soil?

Thanks for posting this, it's just perfect for my project!!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!