Under Loft Bed Desk System with Storage

loft bed with storage and desk underneath
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Convert space under a loft bed into storage and a desktop space. Simple plans even have a spot to hide a cpu!

Works with the loft bed and the loft bed big bookcase plans

Collections

Today, we are going to finish up the loft bed plans by adding two small bookcases and a desktop.  I actually designed this plans so that it's really one small bookcase, with a longer top on one of the bookcases.

We already have plans for the loft bed and the large bookcase, so these smaller bookcases are the final pieces to the loft bed collection.

Dimensions
loft bed storage dimensions
Fits under the twin loft bed

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 – 1×4, 6′ Length
  • 3 – 1×12, 8′ Length
  • 1 – 1×12, 6′ Length (Desktop)
  • 1 – 1×3, 8′ Length
  • 1/4″ Plywood
  • 2″ self tapping wood scews
  • 1 1/4″ self tapping wood screws (or brad nails and wood glue)
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1×12 @ 29 1/4″ (Bookshelf Sides)
  • 4 – 1×12 @ 24 1/2″ (Bookshelf Shelves)
  • 1 – 1×12 @ 26″ (Small Bookshelf Desktop)
  • 1 – 1×12 @ 67″ (Large Desktop)
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 24 1/2″ (Footer)
  • 2 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 26″ x 30″ (Backs)
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 29 1/4″ (Desktop Legs)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface. Check for square and use good straight boards. Predrill all screw holes with a countersink bit. Be safe and have fun!

Instructions

Step 1

BUILD THE BOX
Build the box as shown above using 2″ screws and glue. Build one as shown above, and the other without the top attached.

Step 2

FOOTERS
Attach the footer as shown above, using 2″ screws and glue. Inset the footers 1/2″ and also keep the top edges flush. The bottom edge will be just shy of meeting the ground.

Step 3

BACKS
Attach the backs to the bookcases. You may need to wait to attach the top in the next step to the second bookcase before adding the backs. Make sure you fasten to the shelves too. Use glue and 1 1/4″ nails.

Step 4

LARGE DESKTOP
Attach the large desktop to the top of the second bookcase, and the legs too. Use 2″ screws and glue.

Step 5

Comments

Building Hope (not verified)

Mon, 06/28/2010 - 03:44

Trying to decide if I should shorten up the bookcases and the desk if I'm going to take 8" off the loft due to a lower ceiling. Which would be better, less headroom or a little lower desk? Book cases will be fine either way, it's just sitting at the desk doing homework comfortably that I worry about?

Christine (not verified)

Mon, 06/28/2010 - 07:51

Thank you so much for posting the rest of the Loft Bunk Collection!!! I am so excited to get this made for my son's room! I've already got the wood for the bed and large bookcase! I'll post pics when it's done :0)

Many Thanks!

shanley (not verified)

Tue, 06/29/2010 - 08:00

thank you so much for this complete set! I have plans this summer to build the whole set for my daughter's room. will post pics when it is done. We may be combining it with the cubby bed for a shared bedroom so you have done us two big favours. thank you again.

Loft Bed Small… (not verified)

Sat, 11/13/2010 - 08:20

[...] Full reference (Copyright acknowledge) This entry was posted in Wood Furniture Plans. Bookmark the permalink. ← Plans For Shed and All Additional Matters to Take Into Account … Outdoor Garden Statues Atlanta – Outdoor Garden Decor's blog → [...]

randomlittlelady (not verified)

Fri, 12/10/2010 - 18:22

Hey, i am a teenage girl and i found it easy (with a little help from dad) to build this loft bed.
I added a large mirror to the wall behind and put fairy lights around it so that is is like a really cool vanity. I also turned one of the bookshelves into a chest of drwaers so that i can store my makeup there! I added plywood in the shape of giant polkadots, varying in sized to make it a little prettier and so that it would fit in with my overall colour scheme. Thanks so much, my room is only 250cm by 210cm so this made a big difference to the space i have in there. Very effective for saving space, i would reccomend this for any teens room.

lrae

Wed, 09/12/2012 - 18:33

randomlittlelady, I would love to see a picture of your bed. This is exactly what I plan to do for my 12-year old daughter's room and would love to see one with an actual vanity underneath. Could you please post a picture? It sounds great! Congrats!

shdvl (not verified)

Thu, 01/27/2011 - 19:08

Does this plan have any dimentiions change if I was building the loft bed as a full instead of a twin? My daughter is the oldes but as the only girl with two brothers she gets the smallest bedroom so this helps alot with space.

Alana Cummings (not verified)

Sun, 12/30/2012 - 15:20

What do you think of something like this for William's room?

koleyann89

Wed, 09/30/2015 - 15:18

My oldest loves this loft bed and everything underneath, but she has a full size mattress so we wouold be doing the full sized loft. What would be the dimensions be for bookcase for a full sized loft bed? 

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!