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Small Cedar Shed

small shed
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own cedar shed to store lawn mowers, tools, trash cans, or just extra things.  We love that it's like an outdoor closet.

This cedar shed plan uses fence pickets - so it's much less expensive.  The simple design can be built by most anyone.  Step by step plans with diagrams and shopping and cut list from Ana-White.com

Small Cedar Shed Plan

Small Cedar Shed – Premium Plan

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cedar shed inside view
cedar shed front view
hardware for shed

When I first started building projects, I didn't care if I worked in the gravel driveway on a cold day. I didn't care if I had a little spot behind the boat, on the floor in the garage to work. I was so crazy about building, I found a way around anything to work on a project.

But over the years, slowly, tool by tool, I've been working up to a dedicated work space. And boy is it nice.

It's kind of like having a sewing table. Or a potting bench for gardening. Or even a dedicated spot to make coffee in your kitchen. When you do something on a regular basis, it sure makes life easier to have a dedicated work station for it! 

So when my friend Gina from Lady Goats wrote me saying, Help, Ana, I'm building in the rocks and dirt! I had to work with her to come up with a solution.

I hope this solution we came up with works for many of you too!

small storage sheds

 

How much does this cedar shed cost to build?

 

She wanted to use cedar, and I thought, what cheaper solution than cedar fence pickets for siding?  At a couple of bucks each, Gina was able to make this shed for $255!  And it's cedar!

 inside small storage sheds

Gina is going to add a few fun things to the inside - like a miter saw cabinet and some door shelves, so stay tuned as we turn this shed into a workshop!

And here's a few notes from Gina:

  • I found it saved about $15-$20 to use this set of hinges & latch, instead of buying them individually. You'll end up with two extra latches, but I'm sure they'll come in handy elsewhere!
  • Every minute I spent on this was timed, and the entire build took almost 8 1/2 hours (including roofing, excluding finishing). So this could definitely be a weekend project! - All of the components, unassembled, take up about 12" of space! Maybe this info will come in handy for some of you! I would have definitely pre-built everything and assembled it after I got my HOA's approval if I'd have known!
  • This was my first roofing project, and this product made it SO EASY. They have videos on their website that explain everything. - The paneled doors were kind of tough to get tight. Use a pipe clamp! If you don't have one, nail one corner of an end board and squeeze the boards together while someone else nails all of 'em.
  • The roof allows you to put the shed about 8" away from a structure (meaning there's an 8" gap between the shed and other structure). If you want to lessen that gap, you'll have to resize the roof.

For lots more photos and tips, please check out Gina's blog post here.

 

Cedar Storage Shed Plans

This shed plan can be built in panels first and then assembled on site -

cedar shed panels

 

 

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Small Cedar Shed Plan

Small Cedar Shed – Premium Plan

Build your own compact backyard shed with our easy-to-follow premium plan. Includes diagrams, materials list, and step-by-step instructions.

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The free step-by-step plans follow.  Thanks for using our plans.  

 

Dimensions
small shed dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 18 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 44 – 5 1/2" wide cedar fence pickets
  • 1 – 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 8 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 4x8 sheet of plywood for attaching roofing shingles (check what your shingles manufacturer recommends)
  • 30 square feet of roofing shingles
  • Roofing nails or glue
  • Heavy duty gate hinges, Handles, Lock or Catch
Cut List

BACK WALL

  • 2 – 2x2 @ 66 1/2"
  • 5 – 2x2 @ 77”
  • 16 – 5 1/2" wide x 1/2" thick fence pickets @ 66 1/2" long

SIDE WALLS

  • 2 – 2x2 @ 35 1/2"
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 77 1/2" (longest point, top end cut at 15 degrees off square)
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 72 5/8" (longest point, top end cut at 15 degrees off square)
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 67 1/2" (shortest point, top end cut at 15 degrees off square)
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 36 7/8” (long point to short point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, parallel to each other)
  • 32 – 5 1/2" wide x 1/2" thick fence pickets @ 35 1/2" long
  • 2 – 1x3 @ 80 1/2"
  • 2 – 1x3 @ 70 1/4" (short point measurement, top edge beveled at 15 degrees off square)

FRONT HEADER

  • 1 – 2x4 @ 66 1/2"

ROOF

  • 2 – 1x4 @ 83”
  • 2 – 1x4 @ 46 1/2"
  • 5 – 2x2 @ 46 1/2"
  • 1 – roofing plywood @ 83” x 48”

DOORS*

  • 4 – 1x4 @ 60”
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 33”
  • 2 – 1x4 @ 26”
  • 12 – 5 1/2" wide x 1/2” thick fence pickets @ 67”

*You may wish to build doors slightly shorter to enable easier opening and closing - recommended to build doors to fit finished opening.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Frame you your back walls. You can use the Kreg Jig or 2 1/2" screws here.

Step 2

Starting at the bottom and working upward, attach the cedar fence pickets, overlapping 1/2" as you go up. Screw or nail and glue on.

Step 3

Frame side walls as shown in diagram as you did the back wall. You will need two side walls.

Step 4

And add the cedar siding to back wall as shown in diagram. Do not forget that the sides need to be done in mirror!

Step 5

Build the side walls and attach cedar fence pickets to the side wall.

Step 6

Once your side walls are complete, you can attach back walls. Use 2 1/2" screws or brackets for easy disassembly.

Step 7

Add header to front of shed. Take a minute here to make sure your project is square. The door area especially needs to be square.

Step 8

Frame up roof as shown above.

Step 9

And attach roof to top of storage shed.

Step 10

Add plywood and roofing to top of shed.

Step 11

Frame doors up with pocket holes. Build doors to fit your openings. I like to leave 1/8" gaps.

Step 12

Attach cedar fence pickets to back of doors.

Step 13

And then install doors to shed.

Step 14

I love how Gina added the stop block to keep doors closed. Isn't this shed beautiful!

Step 15

Don't forget the pretty hardware!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Outdoor Projects
Buildings
Room
Storage Solutions
Outdoor
Style
Rustic Furniture Plans
Tradditional Style Furniture Plans

Comments

Foleygirls

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 06:25

I love this shed! Unfortunately for me I don't have a space around my house to put this...do you have any plans coming for a larger shed I could build for my yard??? :-)

emmarosemc

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 08:01

I would advise to put some kind of liner underneath the shingles, especially if youve got powertools stored in the shed. Doesnt need to be tar necessarily but at least some thick plastic. Also handnail the shingles - much less risk of have nailpops/holes and thus leaks.

Lady Goats

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 11:30

I had some looong conversations with the people in the roofing departments in both Lowe's and Home Depot (made sure to talk to a lot of people, because it's hard to get accurate advice from one person that may or may not have done a roof!), and they all mentioned that the type of shingles I used, with the OSB, in my climate wouldn't require the use of another underlayment. So everyone'll definitely benefit from looking into how roofs in your area are done!

Guest - Jessica (not verified)

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 08:35

I've been praying you'd post some kind of plans like this...my evil genius idea to renovate them??? CHICKEN COOP! Thanks Ana!

Ana White

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 08:39

Jessica, what a great idea! You could just add a little chicken door out the back and a run and have a coop! With the large double doors, cleaning inside would be a piece of cake!

I am working on some chicken coop plans, but it could be a bit to build and test and post. Thank you so much for being patient with me!

James Reeves (not verified)

Tue, 04/03/2012 - 22:35

Anna, don't have chickens as of now but l have 5 cats, my daughter renting front half of our duplex has 6 cats.
Last fall bought 2 - 10 x 10 x 6 ft high dog kennel's for my 18 yr old sheperd to run free in no chain.
Just wondering if you have any plans for our cats who needs exercise and my de clawed cat who catn't run loose. A runner put in maybe a few ramps, hollow tubes an area safe for them to run get sunlight have fun in the nice weather.

Just not sure what type of wire or mesh to put around 4 sides won't get claws caught in. If you have any diagrams plans etc please email them to me thanks
jim

redtrek

Sun, 04/11/2021 - 14:15

I have used these plans as the basis for plans to build a chicken coop that will be 18' x 4' x 6'. I am planning to build a modified shed to match. I'm hoping to have it finished in the next 2-3 weeks. I don't see an option to post photos, though.

Legomamaof4

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 08:45

What a Wonderful Building! What an affordable storage option that will last a long time. Great Job and Thank you for the POST! Maybe this will be a summer project. ;')

Jennyw9wkids (not verified)

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 08:50

I have been looking for something like this to build and put on my back deck for a potting shed. I am always doing stuff in the yard and i always have to either go up front to the garage or way in the back to the shed for my yard tools. Since most of my flower beds and potted plants are on or around my deck this would be perfect to keep all my little yard tools in and handy. THANK YOU!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 09:22

Seriously. You always seem to time things perfectly for your readers' needs! Was hoping that you'd one day post more outdoor projects such as this shed. I love it! Maybe we'll be seeing outdoor kitchen islands, a outdoor washing station (especially for gardeners' veggies, convertible outdoor swing (bed/swing), different type of sheds in the near future?....a girl can only wish! THANK THANK YOU for everything that you do! You are one amazing person, Ana!!!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 09:24

Seriously. You always seem to time things perfectly for your readers' needs! Was hoping that you'd one day post more outdoor projects such as this shed. I love it! Maybe we'll be seeing outdoor kitchen islands, a outdoor washing station (especially for gardeners' veggies, convertible outdoor swing (bed/swing), different type of sheds in the near future?....a girl can only wish! THANK THANK YOU for everything that you do! You are one amazing person, Ana!!!

Sally (not verified)

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 10:20

If you think you have no intentions of moving...screw a header board to the outside wall of building at top and bottom. Then fix 2 x 4 on the sides, vertically. Now you can attach your side and roof, and save the money by not making a finished back!

Cindy from Indiana (not verified)

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 11:51

It's like you read my mind, Ana and Gina!

I was just standing outside my house yesterday afternoon trying to brainstorm some attractive but inexpensive storage. I cannot believe you posted this at exactly the right time!

Thank you - it looks great!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 13:33

I don't have a patio and I'm guessing this probably shouldn't go directly on the grass. Do you know what I need to do to prep the ground it will sit on?

Ana White

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 14:20

The easiest way to do a floor would be concrete pier blocks, a wood framed floor probably could get away with 2x4 joists depending on your load requirements. Foundation types vary greatly by region and soil type, so ask locally for advice. I am working on a chicken coop that will have a floor and is very similar to this design in the next bit. Thank you everyone for the comments and feedback and pins! Much appreciated!

Robohead

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 14:34

I've been looking for plans for a shed like this. And the timing couldn't be better. This is getting bumped to spot number 2 on my to-do list. This website has been so incredibly useful to me. I'm so glad I found it.

redhead_61

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 16:04

It turned out SO great. I love the look of natural woods outside. It really has helped warm up my little enclosure of cinderblock walls! This will be such an awesome spot. I LOVE the price savings as well.

debandtom25

Mon, 04/02/2012 - 17:20

I was just searching Google for some ideas for an outside trash/recycling shed, and I thought, "Why don't I check Ana's site?" I don't recall you having a shed, but I thought I would give it a try. Well, how do you do!!! The first item that pops in my face is the shed! Thank you Lady Goats! I'm off to print out the directions and then see how I can modify specifically for my needs. Will post pics when I'm done. :)

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 04/05/2012 - 14:17

Its perfect, all the basics of putting it together, now, just need to slightly modify it to fit under my window and my garbage bins.
Thanks Ana!!

Kerry L. Andrus (not verified)

Tue, 04/03/2012 - 23:47

I went looking at this shed wondering if it would be big enough for my home flock like many other readers! I've sadly discovered that the majority of the plans online are for smaller coops. I do hope the coop you are putting together is a bit larger Ana! I can't wait to see it!

mamma_joy

Sat, 04/14/2012 - 11:47

I have a tablet of drawings of things we have thought of building with measurements and all (b/c I don't get Sketch Up, yet). This looks almost exactly like one that I was dreaming about but had yet to finalize. I have some fence panels waiting to be repurposed......I wonder if I'll get a garage this year or if I'll end up still needing to make this! Nicely done!

Misty K (not verified)

Thu, 05/10/2012 - 20:59

I am saving this project build for next summer....pool should be going in/up by then and this would make a PERFECT pool shed to keep all that stuff from cluttering up the garage and in reach!

~Misty K

taylorgdaddy

Sat, 05/19/2012 - 05:32

Ana, I would like to download the pdf version of this and the link seemed not to work. Any ideas? Thanks

Robohead

Sat, 05/19/2012 - 09:55

You can save it as a PDF from the print function.

1. At the bottom of the plan, click on "Printer-Friendly Version"
2. New window will load the plan. Now right click and choose "Print" from the menu.
3. You should see your printer model listed. Click it and a drop down menu appears.
4. Select "Save as PDF".
5. Print away.

Bob Delanki (not verified)

Sat, 06/16/2012 - 23:38

I don't have a place to keep lumber, so I'd like to have a shed very much like this except wide enough to keep some 8' lumber and full sheets of plywood between projects. Any thoughts on how the design would need to be beefed up if it's being made about 50% wider? Thanks!

MomOf3

Wed, 07/18/2012 - 08:04

I'm trying to figure out a similar problem. I believe to make it wider, you would use 8' treated pine pickets. I don't believe the cedar comes in 8' length. After cutting off the dog-ear, you will be 3" or so short, but you should be able to stack them on an angle.

Kaya (not verified)

Sat, 07/07/2012 - 19:41

I can't find the cedar pickets at lowes or home depot? Any ideas? Where did you buy yours?

Jeannette (not verified)

Sun, 07/08/2012 - 20:00

Kaya - you took the question right out of my mouth lol. Need to know where to find them too. Would like to start building next weekend.

Jeannette (not verified)

Sun, 07/08/2012 - 20:05

Kaya - you took the question right out of my mouth lol. Need to know where to find them too. Would like to start building next weekend.

Jeannette (not verified)

Sat, 07/14/2012 - 08:31

I am in Canada (Toronto) and can't find cedar pickets anywhere (not even in pressure treated). They actually look at me like a moron when I ask. What else can I use?

Help!

MomOf3

Wed, 07/18/2012 - 08:38

Ana or Lady Goats, I'm hoping you can help me. I want to expand the depth of the shed. I'm thinking I can use 8' pine treated pickets (I'd love to use cedar but can't find them that long). Any thoughts of what this would do to the roof? If I keep the front and back height the same, or would that make the slope too low to drain properly? If I raise the slope I would need longer 2x4s, right?

mamalecia11

Tue, 05/14/2013 - 14:01

When you said 8 hours excluding finishing, how are you finishing it? I am terrible at knowing what to do when I am finished building a project.

Lady Goats

Tue, 05/21/2013 - 13:36

Hi mamalecia11! I used a large, cheap brush to brush on an exterior stain (cabot stain - I don't remember the color!). You could paint or stain it, but make sure you use exterior grade paints/stains. Good luck!

Paul Steele

Tue, 05/21/2013 - 09:16

I really like this project and a friend has asked me to build one for her. Do you have any more actual pictures of the building process? The drawings are nice, but having some actual pictures would be very helpful too. Thanks. Really like finding your website and all the projects and ideas.
Paul

Lady Goats

Tue, 05/21/2013 - 13:42

Hi Paul!
I do not have any more pictures of the building process, but you could look through the brag posts to see if anyone else has posted any? If there's anything in particular that you need help with, I'd be more than willing to help..!

Kara L

Tue, 04/29/2014 - 02:17

I am trying to nail the pickets to the sides, and am having trouble with the pickets splitting on me. Where exactly should the nails be? I was trying to get them close to the top so that they would be hidden by the next picket. Is this correct?
Thanks so much for any help!

sbivens

Wed, 05/28/2014 - 21:21

I'm wanting to do something similar to MomOf3, which is make it deeper. How will that work out with the roof? Math is hard.

sbivens

Wed, 05/28/2014 - 21:24

I'm wanting to do something similar to Mom of 3, which is make it deeper. How will that work out with the roof? Math is hard.

TaylorMade1205

Tue, 06/17/2014 - 08:34

Hi Ana and/or LadyGoats,

What would be the alternative to cedar picket fencing at 1/2", I can't find that anywhere. I live in Florida and neither the Orange or Blue store carry 1/2 thick fencing. I clicked on the link LadyGoats supplied and they no longer sell it. I want to build this shed to store my stuff since I've become addicted to both your sites. Thanks for providing an outlet for my creative side.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!