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Modern Single Outdoor Chaise Lounge

diy chaise lounge chairs plans
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The outdoor chaise lounge gets a modern twist!  Build your own and save money, using off the shelf lumber and step by step plans from Ana-White.com

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No Pocket Hole Plans
outdoor chaise lounge being built
outdoor chaise lounge basic frame
finished cedar outdoor chaise lounges

Special thanks to SETH for reader submitted photos.

 

Fits Standard Cushion Size

This plan fits a cushion size with seat 48" x 30" and back 24" x 30". You can easily alter the dimensions to fit different sized cushions.

cushion sizes for modern outdoor chaise lounge plans

Matching Double Chaise Lounge Plans Also Available

We have also created matching double width outdoor chaise lounges plans for your convenience.  You can find those plans here.

diy double chaise lounger

 

Matching Leftovers Wood Side Table Plans

You will have some scrap wood 1x4s leftover when you are done.  We have created a plan to use the leftover 1x4s to create a side table.

outdoor side table plans

The side table plans are at the bottom of the double chaise lounge plans here (scroll to bottom).

 

 

Updated Plans

This plan has been updated to increase the strength of the base (2x4s instead of 1x4s).  The overall size changed as well. If you need the old plans, you can find them here.

Here's Some Tips to Build Better Outdoor Furniture

tips for better outdoor furniture builds

Want to build better outdoor furniture?  Over the twenty years I've been building, maintaining, and enjoying my own outdoor furniture, I've learned a few tips that can help build longer lasting furniture.  

 5 QUICK Tips for Better Outdoor Furniture

 

 

Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 sets of 3" hinges suitable for exterior use
  • 2-1/2" exterior self tapping wood screws 
  • 2" exterior self tapping wood screws
  • Exterior wood glue
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
Cut List

Main Chair

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - frame
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 24-1/2" - frame
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 11-1/4" - legs
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27" - cleats
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 78" - side slats
  • 6 - 1x4 @ 48" - main slats
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 3" - stop blocks

Back

  • 6 - 1x4 @ 30" - back slats
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 23-1/2" - back supports
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 10" - prop supports

 

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards using a compound miter saw or circular saw with guide.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

pocket hole assembly recommendations

To build this lounger, you can either use the Kreg Jig (pocket hole recommendations shown above) or self tapping wood screws.

 

Pocket Holes

The advantage of pocket holes is no visible fasteners.  If you are using a cushion, this will cover all the fasteners, so this may or may not be as important to you.

When joining 2x to 2x boards, the setting is 1-1/2" with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.  When joining 2x to 1x boards, use the 3/4" setting and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

 
Mark out and drill all pocket holes prior to assembly.  The assembly order may differ than shown in diagrams

Step 2

Build the frame, using either 2-1/2" screws or the Kreg Jig. Make sure that the frame is very square.

Step 3

Attach legs to the outside of the frame with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 4

Screw cleats inside the frame, four screws per cleat.  2-1/2" self tapping screws.

Step 5

Attach decking to the top of the chaise lounge with 2" self tapping screws.  

Step 6

Build the back piece with 2" screws into the backs of the 2x2s.

Step 7

Build the back support as shown.  Make sure the 2x4s are set in 2" from the ends of the 2x2s.

Hinge to the back rest.

Step 8

Hinge the entire back piece inside the chaise lounge opening.

Step 9

Install the stop blocks as shown.  

You can alter the locations, just make sure the stop blocks don't interfere with the back closing flat.

Step 10

Now take some of the 1x2 scraps and create stops as shown above to hold the prop up in place. You can space these at any desired location.

Project Type
Outdoor Projects
Outdoor Seating, Lounging and Accents
Room
Outdoor
Style
Modern Style Furniture Plans

Comments

wiscousonian (not verified)

Fri, 04/29/2011 - 07:58

Not sure about wheels, it might change how sturdy these are. The legs help ground the chair so that it doesn't flex much. With wheels id be afraid of the legs taking a lot of horizontal stress because the wheels will want to fold back, whereas with legs only they cant move so the weight is forced down...make any sense? Also they are not that heavy that they are not movable if you're following the sunny areas around your yard throughout the day.

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 04/25/2011 - 11:10

What type of wood did you use on this Single Lounger for the Simple Modern Outdoor Collection? I love the lounger and will build this in the next couple of weeks.

Darb1001

Mon, 04/11/2016 - 06:51

Where did you find the materials for less than $50? Just the wood ran almost $70 and that was rough on one side so I had to run it through my planer a couple of times.

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 04/25/2011 - 16:24

I really want to build on soon, I have been saving up some cedar for one of these. The photos are great and it is very helpful to see where the holes are put. Thanks again great photos. Love your pool too!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 06/27/2011 - 21:48

Wheels could be mounted on simple struts that would extend out the back of the legs, so they're off the ground when it's in the 'resting' position, but when you lift the opposite end the angle would put the wheels in contact with the ground. Just a thought.

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 07/06/2011 - 05:31

rather than a strut at the end you could place the wheel axel towards the back of the leg for the same affect.

[email protected] (not verified)

Sun, 08/14/2011 - 07:25

I went to work on this lounger today. I altered a couple of things on the plan.

1). I rounded edges everywhere someone might grab the lounger as well as between the borders. I know part of the charm is the flatness but I was worried someone might cut themselves on the edges (yep, they were that sharp). I used a quarter bit rounder on my router table to do this.

2). I couldn't figure out where to put the Kreg jig digs on the joists, so I simply did 30 holes across the joist and, when I laid the planks, used some but not all of them. I spaced the digs using the B and C holes in the jig, used the long screw head in B, drilled C, moved over until I'd done all 30. It was approximately 45 mins per joist. NOT fun.

3). When I was cutting down the 2x4 to 1 1/8, I cut 1/4" off each deck plank. Then I cut those to 3/4" and used them as spacers between the planks.

4). I painted a 'Sea Mist' stain on the boards and frame before assembling. Just a first coat. I'll give another one once its fully assembled.

So there I am. The body is put together, the 5 body planks are on. Later, will put on the sides and assemble the top.

geophyrd

Fri, 09/02/2011 - 11:57

Almost done with the lounger...

A couple of questions:

The back is 25". If the supports are 2x2, separating them by 3.25, 5.25, 12 plus 2 plus 2 plus 2 = 26.5, not 25. Going to leave the bottom one off until I see how its fitting.

Also, because I cut the back support to size (1", I'm going to have to add back to its thickness. Anyone else have this problem?

geophyrd

Sat, 09/03/2011 - 14:49

Will have a brag blog along presently. For the next person building, consider the following:

The measurements on the back are not precise and following them will lead to trouble. They can work, but I was not able to follow the measurements and have the top close well. Instead, I opted for it to sit half an inch above the rest of the lounger.

Not happy about the hinge mechanism for the top, may have to look for more of a specialty item for that.

All in all, this project was much more challenging than I thought it would be. But it does look great.

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 02/16/2012 - 03:30

Why make the frame width little small (19")? Which make the deck board side sitting only on the frame very little. Can we just increase this to 23" and add the 4" to the Prop up base? This will make the chair extra rigid so that the leg can also screw into the frame.

For the wheel, just cut 2 45 degree angle pieces and screw it into the back so that the leg and the frame are join.

Great site and the chair plan.

Nikohall

Sat, 06/01/2013 - 13:22

So I just put the base together, all boards cut exactly to size. I didn't double check the math since everyone seemed to build just fine with the above instructions. However, when I laid the deck boards down the over hang by 0.75".

According to Ana's plans, 51" + 24.25" = 74.5"
Obviously this is wrong, and I've already cut the back pieces to 25".
Would you suggest moving the 19" support back, making the distance 23.5" instead of 24.25"? How is this going to affect the back support?
Anyone else have these problems?
Thanks

Nikohall

Sat, 06/01/2013 - 13:22

So I just put the base together, all boards cut exactly to size. I didn't double check the math since everyone seemed to build just fine with the above instructions. However, when I laid the deck boards down the over hang by 0.75".

According to Ana's plans, 51" + 24.25" = 74.5"
Obviously this is wrong, and I've already cut the back pieces to 25".
Would you suggest moving the 19" support back, making the distance 23.5" instead of 24.25"? How is this going to affect the back support?
Anyone else have these problems?
Thanks

Nikohall

Sat, 06/01/2013 - 13:43

Guess its my fault for not checking the math, but now on the next step and more measurement problems. These plans are worthless, I wasted $100 on lumber and supplies and now have a bunch of expensive firewood.

The deck boards are 4" wide, giving a total width of 20". Add on the (6) 0.25" gaps give you a total width of 21.5". Ana expects this to fit in 19" of space.

As much as I was excited to tackle this project, I must say this was a complete waste of time, energy and money.

Nikohall

Sat, 06/01/2013 - 13:44

Guess its my fault for not checking the math, but now on the next step and more measurement problems. These plans are worthless, I wasted $100 on lumber and supplies and now have a bunch of expensive firewood.

The deck boards are 4" wide, giving a total width of 20". Add on the (6) 0.25" gaps give you a total width of 21.5". Ana expects this to fit in 19" of space.

As much as I was excited to tackle this project, I must say this was a complete waste of time, energy and money.

EternalOptimist

Sat, 06/01/2013 - 16:22

Nikohall, you mentioned that your deck boards are exactly 4", correct? Stock lumber that is labeled __" x 4" actually measures 3.5" - 3.75" in width depending on your area. This information is available on Ana's Getting Started page along with other great information here: http://ana-white.com/2011/03/how-do-i-get-started.

When we understand that she used stock lumber, the math works.
(3.5 x 5) + (0.25 x 6) = 19

I hope this helps, and sorry for the frustrations you've encountered thus far. Don't give up!

Bandera89

Sat, 04/18/2015 - 10:45

I just found my next project. This will only be my 4th project since I started my new hobby. After the last Ana project, my family thinks I can build anything. How much weight can these 1x4 legs hold? I'm thinking 2x4 legs..

sdlacher

Thu, 05/07/2020 - 17:03

has anyone updated this* plan to the double wide? I am mostly interested in what dimensions were used for the frame width....for material use it comes out better at 48" instead of doubling the 2x4@ 24 1/2 to 49".

tizlad

Tue, 06/02/2020 - 03:11

Great Plan Ana - I was wondering if you had any plans to make a foldable version of this for people with less storage space

Or does anyone know of a way to modify so that it could be folded in half and stored easier

tiffann74

Mon, 02/22/2021 - 09:43

Has anyone replied to this? I’m just starting my cuts and her shopping list is a little short. I have the same question as you! Not enough 2x4 in the shopping list to make the cuts in the cut list smh

AmandaJ64

Sat, 07/11/2020 - 18:52

Is the shopping list correct? I feel like there should be 3 2x4s to get enough of that size?? Am I reading it wrong?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Question

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish.  I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal.  Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners.  But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade.  This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts.  I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint.  There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive.  We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethaned, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.  

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project.  Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture!  But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work.  If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, it can last decades. I have DIY pieces over 20 years old! The beauty of DIY is you can always repaint, refinish, or repair it as needed.

Care & Maintenance

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it looks worn, a light sand and touch-up paint or stain can bring it right back to life.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!