Loft bed for american girl or 18" doll

Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Here are the plans for the Loft bed for 18" dolls. This is my first time to share plans. I hope I don't confuse any of you ;) If you would like the plans for the chair, they are now posted on my blog. theporchswing.blog.com

I saw the bed on the American Girl website. It is $225 and back ordered until after Christmas! This version can be built for free with scraps, or under $20 if you decide to use new boards.

Preparation

Common Materials
3 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

4-2x2 @ 22 ½” (legs)
1-1x10 @ 22 ½” (ladder wall)
1-1x4 @ 9 ¼” (foot board cut to the same width as 1x10)
2-1x4 @ 19” (side rails)
3-1x2 @9 ¼” (cross slats for mattress)
3- 1x4 @ 3 ½” (bench sides and divider)
5-1x1 @ 4” (steps for ladder)
¼” plywood scrap cut to fit back desk wall
1-1x10 @ 7” (desk top) cut at 30 degrees (pic explanation below)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Attach two of the legs to the 1x4 foot board. You can either use pocket holes or pre drill and use 3” screws through the outside of the legs.

Step 2

Attach the other two legs to the solid
Ladder wall. If using ph, make sure you drill the holes where your shelves and bench will go. This way they can be hidden.

Step 3

Attach the side rails to the legs on either side.

Step 4

Cut your desk top. For this step, take the 1x10 that you cut for your desk top and measure 1 3/4" on the long side (this will be the same measurement as the width of your 2x2 leg) Draw an angle from this mark to the opposite corner on the short side. I know this is confusing, so I included a photo of it.

Step 5

Step 6

Measure from the base of the back rail to the bottom of the leg. Cut a 2x2 to fit. I attached mine with ph from the top rail into the leg, and then from the under side of the desk.

Step 7

Using glue and nails or hot glue, attach your steps to the ladder wall. I used a 1x4, between the steps, for a spacer.
I also mod podged a piece of fabric to a scrap piece of ¼” plywood for the back of the coat hanger. Then, I took 3 small cup hooks and attached them to it.

Step 8

Then, attach your shelves to the inside of the ladder wall. Put your bench together with nails and glue and attach it to the ladder wall with ph screws from the top of the bench. Then, nail your slats to the side rails and cut a piece of 1/4" plywood or strong cardboard to fit under the mattress .Take the scrap plywood you cut for the desk wall and attach it to the back legs with glue and nails. I also cut a scrap piece of plywood and glued a piece of foam to it. Then, I covered it with fabric and some yarn to create a bulletin board for the desk.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

margjack

Sat, 11/10/2012 - 06:48

Thanks so much for the plans! I'm planning on making this for my niece! Is there any way you could post plans or just dimensions for the chair? Thanks!

Anonymous Coward (not verified)

Thu, 11/15/2012 - 13:50

The text says 1 1/4 and the drawing shows 1 3/4

Which is it. or should it be "whatever matches the width of the 2x2 leg? (because we all know it is not 2")

In reply to by Anonymous Coward (not verified)

little stuf

Sun, 11/18/2012 - 11:41

Thanks for catching that! Yes, it should be the same dimension as the width of your 2x2 leg. I fixed it on the plans.

jeffparlee

Thu, 11/29/2012 - 15:27

I am not able to find the blog that has the chair plans. I am building the American Doll loft Bed for my grand daughter for Christmas. Please help me find the Bolg site or e-mail the chair plans to me. Any help would be appreciated.
Jeff

Jeff Parlee (not verified)

Tue, 12/04/2012 - 14:51

Hi Andrea,
Thank you for the help! The link worked great. It is now in my favorites. Best wishes,
Jeff

Jaz (not verified)

Thu, 12/27/2012 - 10:24

What does "ph" stand for?

cbellin (not verified)

Tue, 01/01/2013 - 12:57

First, Ana, thank you for sharing all your wonderfaul plans! I sew, but have never worked with wood. Your plans are exciting - I have 4 grandaughters and 5 (so far) great nieces! Which Kreg Jig do I need to make your 18" doll beds - they have four levels and I'm not sure which to order.

Thanks,

Carol

In reply to by cbellin (not verified)

Jake

Tue, 01/01/2013 - 15:37

I'll jump in and give you my opinion. Start with the $30 kit called the Kreg Jr. If you have another $20 get an extra drill kit with the mini jig. I find the mini works best when you are drilling PHs in 1x2s. Also splurge and get the Kreg clamp. It really works well with the jig. Now you can spend up to about $140 but it is not needed to start. I have been using the PH system for three years and still don't need the expensive set. You will also need a few other clamps to hold everything in place when you set the PH screws. They exert a lot of torque and your setup will be out of line in an instant if everything is not held in place in all directions. Good Luck. You will, I promise you, become addicted.

cbellin (not verified)

Fri, 01/04/2013 - 14:05

Thanks so much, Jake. Just the info I need. I appreciate your jumpiing in and giving your opinion.

Carol

A Brit Across … (not verified)

Thu, 01/17/2013 - 10:48

I am thrilled to have found this! I have made this bed (with a few alternations) for our niece, and would love to share my brag.

I don't seem to be able to register though! What am I doing wrong?

mollyb

Mon, 07/08/2013 - 09:34

Once again, a newbie here at building with wood. Discovered that the 2"x2"s I purchased for this project are actually 1-1/2"x1-1/2" and are referred to as furring strips. Is this typical?

Jake

Mon, 07/08/2013 - 10:53

In lumber there is a difference between nominal size and actual size. Here is a link that will give you the info you need. http://diyhousetips.com/314/nominal-lumber-size-dimensions-chart/

The plans dimensions are based upon actual lumber size so keep that in mind when reviewing plans and especially if you change the plans for any reason.

Furring strips are really just inferior lumber used where strength and beauty is not needed. I have used furring strips with limited success and certainly not where strength is a requirement.

At Big Blue or Big Orange you will find furring strips , then #2 grade lumber (SPF = spruce, pine, fir) and finally a #1 grade lumber. I only use the top grade for projects that require staining or I do not want to see knots. #2 grade is great for most projects and is not that much more expensive than furring strips.

Jake

Mon, 07/08/2013 - 10:58

I forgot to mention something about 2x2s (actual 1.5x1.5). They are available in the project wood section but rather expensive. I prefer to glue two 1x2s together to come up with one 1.5x1.5 (or nominal 2x2). With a little care in lining the pieces up, good gluing process, and a little sanding you will have a nice result.

Another source is the fencing and decking sections of the lumber section. They have some nice 2x2s in 36" and 48" lengths.

mollyb

Tue, 07/16/2013 - 17:28

Jake, Your follow-up to my sizing question was much appreciated. Before building anything, I thought it was going to really mess me up that the measurements weren't the same size as called for. Now that I'm slowing learning the wood/lumber world and have started on my project, it's all making a bit more sense! Thank you.

mollyb

Tue, 07/16/2013 - 17:39

Being this is my first wood building project, I'm finding it difficult for me to improvise because I'm having a difficult time seeing where I'm going and nervous I'll run into problems later in the project.

A question about the footboard and ladder wall. Are they both attached to the MIDDLE of the 2x2s legs or are they flush against the outside of the bed frame?

BTW, I never thanked Little Stuf for these plans. My daughter saved her own money for American Girl Doll McKenna and I know the loft bed was something she really would like to have had. I showed her the other doll bed plans on this site and this is what she wanted!

mollyb

Tue, 07/16/2013 - 17:50

I would like to add the shelves and bench to the inside of the loft bed. I am seeing the photo with the shelves and bench, but not the instructions.

The cut list lists 3 - 1x4s @ 3.5" for the bench and divider. These cut sizes seem to big for the bench. I am wondering if I am missing something. What is the "divider" that is referred to in the cut list?

The bench and shelves seem to be same dimension of wood. Is that right?

Thank you for your patience with my questions!

mollyb

Tue, 07/16/2013 - 17:50

I would like to add the shelves and bench to the inside of the loft bed. I am seeing the photo with the shelves and bench, but not the instructions.

The cut list lists 3 - 1x4s @ 3.5" for the bench and divider. These cut sizes seem to big for the bench. I am wondering if I am missing something. What is the "divider" that is referred to in the cut list?

The bench and shelves seem to be same dimension of wood. Is that right?

Thank you for your patience with my questions!

mollyb

Tue, 07/16/2013 - 17:50

I would like to add the shelves and bench to the inside of the loft bed. I am seeing the photo with the shelves and bench, but not the instructions.

The cut list lists 3 - 1x4s @ 3.5" for the bench and divider. These cut sizes seem to big for the bench. I am wondering if I am missing something. What is the "divider" that is referred to in the cut list?

The bench and shelves seem to be same dimension of wood. Is that right?

Thank you for your patience with my questions!

mollyb

Tue, 07/16/2013 - 17:50

I would like to add the shelves and bench to the inside of the loft bed. I am seeing the photo with the shelves and bench, but not the instructions.

The cut list lists 3 - 1x4s @ 3.5" for the bench and divider. These cut sizes seem to big for the bench. I am wondering if I am missing something. What is the "divider" that is referred to in the cut list?

The bench and shelves seem to be same dimension of wood. Is that right?

Thank you for your patience with my questions!

mollyb

Tue, 07/16/2013 - 17:50

I would like to add the shelves and bench to the inside of the loft bed. I am seeing the photo with the shelves and bench, but not the instructions.

The cut list lists 3 - 1x4s @ 3.5" for the bench and divider. These cut sizes seem to big for the bench. I am wondering if I am missing something. What is the "divider" that is referred to in the cut list?

The bench and shelves seem to be same dimension of wood. Is that right?

Thank you for your patience with my questions!

mollyb

Tue, 07/16/2013 - 17:50

I would like to add the shelves and bench to the inside of the loft bed. I am seeing the photo with the shelves and bench, but not the instructions.

The cut list lists 3 - 1x4s @ 3.5" for the bench and divider. These cut sizes seem to big for the bench. I am wondering if I am missing something. What is the "divider" that is referred to in the cut list?

The bench and shelves seem to be same dimension of wood. Is that right?

Thank you for your patience with my questions!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!