Media Hutch

Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

A large hutch featuring three large overhead doors for the Basic Collection.

Collections

Inspired by Pottery Barn Printer Collection

Welcome to your new media suite.  With today's plan, the hutch, you have all the components to build this exact system.

You will simply need to build six of the bases, four doors, two bookcase hutches, and today's media hutch.

And because today's plans is actually a hutch - not just a bridge - you can actually leave off the side bases and hutches for a smaller room.

And of course, we are going to have to start working on more plans in this collection - so you can use this plan as a hutch in your dining room or even a hutch over your desk in your office.

The most important thing to remember when building modular components is to make sure all the pieces are square.  Because when you go to line six different units up, if they all aren't perfectly square, they are not going to line up!  So start by making sure your work surface is perfectly level.  Keep your work surface very clean, too.  Even the slightest amount of sawdust can end up making big differences in your projects.  Then make sure the boards you are working with are straight.  Finally, as you build, check for square after each step.  You can do this be measuring diagonally, from opposite corners of the project.  Measure in both directions.  Then make sure those measurements match - if the don't, adjust by pushing the two corners that have a greater measurement together.

Make sure you measure your tv - like the Pottery Barn Printer hutch, there is only 28 1/2" of clearance for a flat panel.  For a larger tv, you should either leave off the top drawers on just stick with the bases and side hutches.

And because we have a new print feature that is just amazing, we are going to work with blog posts again.  Let me know how the print feature works for you.  Try saving as a word document - then you can customize the plan to save you ink!

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 10′ 1×12 Pine or Whitewood Boards (Pottery Barn Printer Collection is built with Particle board and pine boards)
2 – 8′ 1×3 Pine or Whitewood Boards (Look for furring strips in good condition to save tons)
1 – 8′ 1×2 Pine or Whitewood Board
64″ of 3/4″ Edging or Nosing or Beading (to trim out the top face of the hutch)
1 – sheet of 1/4″ sanded plywood (for the back)
1 – 6′ 1×10 or pine select 1/2 x 10 for thinner doors (for the doors)
3 sets of self closing surface mount overlay hinges
3 – pulls, handles or knobs
3/4″ brad nails
1 1/4″ finish nails
2″ finish nails
Pocket hole screws or 2″ finish nails for building the box
Wood glue
Finishing supplies

Cut List

2 – 1×12 Boards @ 39″ (Box Sides)
1 – 1×12 Board @ 64″ (Box Top)
1 – 1×12 Board @ 62 1/2″ (Shelf)
2 – 1×12 Boards @ 9 3/4″ (Cubby Dividers)
2 – 1×3 Boards @ 62 1/2″ (Back Frame)
1 – 1×3 Board @ 23 1/2″ (Back Frame Support)
2 – 1×2 @ 20 1/4″ (Side Cubby Top Trim)
1 – 1×2 @ 20 1/2″ (Center Cubby Top Trim)
1 – 3/4″ Edge Trim @ 64 (Top Trim)
1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 64″ x 39 3/4″ (Back)
3 – 1/2 x 10 Boards @ 20 3/4″ (Door Faces) (Can also use a 1×10 board, 3/4″ thick instead of 1/2″ thick)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Build the Box

As you know, my preferred method to build boxes is pocket hole screws. I just find I am able to build a square project on the very first try, and the pocket hole screws are much easier to start, then say lining up and countersinking screws from the outside. I use a Kreg Jig™. You could also use glue and a finish nailer, being that this is a hutch, and no one will be sitting or climbing on it. It’s up to you. If you do use a finish nailer, use 2″ finish nails and wood glue.

Step 2

Back Frame

Add the back frame to the back. This gives you something to nail the back plywood to and adds support and structure to the hutch. Keep edges flush to the back, and make sure you use pocket hole screws to attach the top back frame piece to the shelf (or you could use nails from the top).

Step 3

Center Support

Because 62 1/2″ is a long way for plywood to go without support, the center support with tie it all in. Attach to the back frame with pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Top Trim

Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to attach the top trim pieces inside the cubbies. Your piece should begin to feel much less flimsy at this stage.

Step 5

Step 6

Back

The back plywood will reinforce everything, so make sure you nail to all of the shelves and back frames. Nail to anything that you can to reinforce all joints. Just make sure when you nail into the back frame that you are using brad nails less than 1″ long, or you will go through the board. Use glue. Also, make sure your project is square before applying the plywood back.

Step 7

Doors

The final step is to add the doors. The doors are simply 1x10s, 1/2″ stock unless you choose to use 3/4″ stock for the glass doors below. Simply attach with surface mount hinges, designed for partial overlay doors. I like the self closing ones myself.

Comments

Erin (not verified)

Thu, 09/02/2010 - 08:06

This question might sound really dumb, but how does all these pieces stay together. Is there anyway you can hook them together, so when a child climbs on the piece (hopefully not, but you never know) it will not fall over or come apart?

Thanks!

erin

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 09/02/2010 - 08:20

Erin, you should definitely secure the hutch to a stud in the wall behind the hutch and also screw all of the pieces together from the insides with 1 1/4" screws. You won't need many screws, and because all of the sides are solid wood, you should have no trouble finding a hidden spot to attach the components together. This is a great question, thanks for asking. Ana

ildaura (not verified)

Thu, 09/02/2010 - 09:14

Thanks for the plans Ana! Erin's question made me think of something else. How do you work around base molding, especially if you want pieces to look like built-ins? Do you notch out the bottoms? Would doing that usually affect the soundness of structure too much? Also, if you create plans for the drawer bases will you just be adding to these bases?

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 09/02/2010 - 09:20

Hi Ildaura,

Cutting from the cabinet to accommodate base moulding should not affect the structure of your piece. In fact, you could build with this in mind when you build the cabinet! Depending on the height of your base moulding, you may need to bring the bottom shelf of our base up, and then you would just simply notch out the sides, and bring the plywood down to the shelf instead of the floor (for the back). Another easy option is to remove base moulding from your wall and just save it.

The other bases will be the same size and based off this base, but the shelves will be different to accommodate drawers. Because the drawers are deeper, I am going to go with drawer slides and trim between the drawers instead of full shelves. Hopefully will add these bases soon!

Alicia (not verified)

Thu, 09/02/2010 - 13:37

It seems like these plans are pretty similar to the Thomas collection. I saw your "skinny" Thomas plans but I was wondering about the Armorie Thomas collection. Is there any way you could modify those into this bigger plan? http://www.potterybarnkids.com/products/thomas-narrow-media-system/popu…
I have to build something with enough hidden space to hide the Wii drums that my hubby loves but I hate looking at!

Sherry (not verified)

Thu, 09/02/2010 - 14:42

Hi Ana,

I got really excited when I saw this plan since I thought it would be perfect for my TV room. But I've noticed one difference with the Pottery Barn version that might not work for me. While they have separate units on the sides, the section with the two middle doors are one double sized unit which allows larger home theatre components to fit. Mine won't all fit in the 14 1/2 wide base unit. Any chance of a plan for a two-door middle cabinet plan?

Thanks!

Kristen (not verified)

Thu, 09/02/2010 - 16:55

I was actually wondering if you could help me with a project. It seems like it would be simple for someone like you, and I just need to be pointed in the right direction. A friend has been letting me use a beautiful old bench of theirs and I've fallen in love. Now they want it back and I'd like to make something similar.

allison (not verified)

Fri, 09/03/2010 - 14:03

Sherry -- I had exactly the same mental dilemma last night when I was printing all the plans out. For one thing, a standard sized DVD player would never fit in such a tiny base, but I also didn't want the cabinet to overheat with the door on it, so I was pretty sure I would have to have a double base just to be able to put a DVD player, DVR / Satellite box, and a PS3 in it without burning down the living room.

My current knock off PB media base (made 4 or 5 years ago from a modified dresser) is open shelving, but still sort of overheats itself pretty easily, even though it has no doors.

Glad to know I wasn't the only one who thought about the width!

I will hopefully be starting this collection tomorrow!!

Ana White (not verified)

Fri, 09/03/2010 - 18:51

Hi Allison, Sherry, you just made me think of something - why not build a simple base like the Pottery Barn Logan one for the media console? And then make your hutch a little taller (don't go over 48" or you will have to do something different for the back) and then keep the side hutches? That way your tv would be lower too! I'm so glad you read and comment, these are things I might not have thought of! Thanks so much, Ana

Alanna (not verified)

Tue, 09/07/2010 - 09:32

Hi Ana! I am looking for something similar to the Rhys media collection (and living collection) for our tv. I love the clean lines with the classic look. Any plans for plans for this or modifications i can do on the Logan or Printer plans? The TV base is going to be my first project, with the classic as my choice if the Ryhs is out. We have folks coming Saturday....as in four days away Saturday for football....any suggestions, or am i out of time?

In reply to by bigjake80

JoanneS

Wed, 01/15/2014 - 01:54

Hi Bigjake80,
These are the links to the other plans in the Basic Collection.

The base unit (open)
http://ana-white.com/2010/08/plans/open-base-basic-collection

Bookshelf hutch:
http://ana-white.com/2010/08/hutch-plans-for-inspired-by-pottery-html.h…

Cabinet Base:
http://ana-white.com/2010/09/cabinet-base-basic-collection

Glass doors:
http://ana-white.com/2010/09/glass-doors-open-base

Happy building!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!