Apothecary Console

apothecary console table
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This beautiful apothecary console features three open cubbies perfect for storing entertainment controllers, four drawers and two cabinets, all concealed by door fronts that look like an apothecary cabinet. Loved by so many, this console is easy to build and can add that touch of character to your family room.

Photo by EVILANNE

Dimensions
Apothecary Console
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 – Sheets of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood, cut into 15 1/2″ wide strips, 8′ Long
  • 1 – 1/4″ Plywood or Lauan or MDF (for the back)
  • 1 – 12′ long 1×6
  • 1- 8′ long 1×6 Boards
  • 2 – 1×2 Boards
  • 2″ self tapping star bit screws
  • 1 1/4″ self tapping star bit screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Finishing Supplies
Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • 3 – 1×16 @ 61 1/2″ (Shelves)
  • 2 – 1×16 @ 16 1/4″ (Bottom Dividers)
  • 2 – 1×16 @ 14 3/4″ (Drawer Dividers)
  • 2 – 1×16 @ 7″ (Top Dividers)
  • 2- 1×16 @ 27″ (Sides)
  • 1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 63 x 27″ (Back)
  • 3 – 1×6 @ 65″ (Top)
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 61 1/2″ (Inset front footer)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 15 1/2″ (Side Footer)
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 64 1/2″ (Front Footer)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Box Partitions Begin by marking out all the joints on both sides of the boards as shown above. Don’t forget that the boards are 3/4″ thick. Then beginning on the bottom partition (yellow) attach the green partition. Now attach the yellow boards to the purple. Finally, attach the blue boards to the purple. Use 2″ screws and glue. Remember, you can click on images to see a full size view.

Step 2

Finish the Box Begin by marking joints on both sides of the boards. Then attach with 2″ screws and glue the top to the top partitions. Then attach the sides to all of the shelves and the top, ash shown above.

Step 3

Back Cut your 1/4″ plywood as shown above. Then use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to attach the back to the box. Don’t forget to fasten to all of the partitions and shelves. Make sure your project is nice and square before attaching the back. The measurements shown here are slightly different from the cut list because I choose to make the cabinet slightly taller for drawer reasons, but either measurement would work just fine.

Step 4

Top Using 1 1/4″ screws and glue, fasten the top boards to the top. Notice that there is a 1″ overhang on the front and the sides, but the back rests flush with the back edge of the sides.

Step 5

Step 6

Footer, Front Using 1 1/4″ Screws or nails and glue, fasten the front footer to the pieces from step 5. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 7

Drawers and Doors: Click here for Part 2 

Comments

MarlaC (not verified)

Thu, 12/06/2012 - 06:00

I am looking for part 2 of these plans. The wedsite says "click here" for part 2, but has no link to click on.....help please...I LOVE this website. Have already made a doll bed for my grand daughter :-)

mallory (not verified)

Tue, 12/18/2012 - 22:17

I am in love will this console and wish to build it. The part 2 "link page" doesn't work. Is there any way you could link it to me or fix the bug. Maybe its my Mac but Ill try on a pc as well. thanks!

RusticCharm

Sun, 02/10/2013 - 08:23

I absolutely love this console table & think it would look amaz-za-zing in my entryway! I can not wait to get started!!!

Carrie

cdejea1

Sat, 03/30/2013 - 21:59

I saw that someone else had posted this as well, but didn't see an answer. There doesn't seem to be a link under Step 7 to be able to get the directions for part 2. Help, please!

cdejea1

Sat, 03/30/2013 - 21:59

I saw that someone else had posted this as well, but didn't see an answer. There doesn't seem to be a link under Step 7 to be able to get the directions for part 2. Help, please!

tferm78

Tue, 05/21/2013 - 11:05

Hi - new to this site and i LOVE it! however, in looking at the plans for this console, it says to click 'here' for part 2 which would be directions for the drawers and doors, but there's no link to part 2 - i click on it and nothing happens. where can i find part two? thanks!

suswan

Tue, 02/25/2014 - 18:15

I am looking to start this project in the next week. However, the link for step 7 doesn't seem to be there. Am I missing something?

Alhgonzalez

Wed, 02/04/2015 - 17:04

Hello in just wondering how you attached the insides together. Did you just screw them together or use pocket holes? Thanks!

cmwojtko

Sun, 05/17/2015 - 13:02

The portion of step 2 for drawers and doors in not viewable/printable. Can anybody help?? We have purchased all the wood already and made the cuts on the cut list I just want to make sure we assemble correctly. thank you!

kristyzed

Fri, 06/12/2015 - 10:31

This looks great and I want to try my hand at it. I've never done doors before so this will be my first. For some reason "Part 2" is not hyperlinked and I can't find it anywhere. Can you help? Thanks!

Emily Fraser

Wed, 11/25/2015 - 21:41

Hi, 

I cant find the link to the rest of the steps. It says step 7 click here but there isnt a link. What am I missing?

Thanks!

Emily 

Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!