30" Sink Base - Momplex Vanilla Kitchen

Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

How to build a sink base cabinet - free plans from Ana-White.com. Part of the Momplex Vanilla Kitchen Plans.

Hi everyone!  

We are almost through sharing all the base cabinet plans for the Momplex Vanilla Kitchen!

Just in case you missed it, we shared project plans to DIY:

- 12" base cabinet plan

- 21" base cabinet plan

- 42" blind corner base cabinet plan

- 36" pie cut lazy susan corner base cabinet

And today, we are sharing probably the most important cabinet plan of all - the sink base!

Sink bases usually come in 36" and 30" widths to accommodate standard sized sinks.  We'd have loved to put a big sink in for Mom, but with the kitchen shrinking due to a wider hallway, we just didn't have the space.

But Mom's just one person, so the smaller sink does what it needs to for her.

NOTE: We are planning a 30" apron sink for the other Momplex unit - so stay tuned for that if you are looking for a small footprint sink base cabinet, but a larger sink.

But you can still fit a double sink in a 30" base - although I don't recommend that faucet - a gooseneck would be much better (live and learn and fight the urge to replace it).

Check out the plans following for the 30" sink base!

Happy Building!

XO Ana

PS - If you are building kitchen cabinets, PLEASE take a second to read through our base cabinet building post.

PSS - We will also share plans for other base cabinets that are not in the Momplex Vanilla kitchen that are standard sized.

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves)
3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves (for top supports)
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - we used cheaper plywood here)
1x2s for face frames
1/4" plywood (for backs)
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails
edge banding for shelves

Cut List

CARCASS
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 34-1/2" (side panels)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 28" (bottom shelf)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 28" (bottom supports)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3-1/2" (can vary) x 28" (top supports)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 29-1/2" (back)

FACE FRAME
3 - 1x2 @ 27"
2 - 1x2 @ 30"
1 - 1x2 @ 21"

SHELVES
3/4" plywood @ 22" x 27-3/4" (measure and adjust to fit shelf pins/edge banding)

DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4")
5 1/2" x 29-1/2" (drawer face)
2 - 22-1/2" x 14-1/2" (door)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start with the SAME side panels that you use on all of the base cabinets. But remember that the side panels should be made up in mirror - meaning you will place 3/4" pocket holes on outsides (for attaching face frames in later steps) and shelf pin holes (for adjustable shelves) on insides, with the toekick at the bottom front.

Step 2

Attach the two bottom supports to the side panels, using the 5" wide strips of plywood. These guys will get covered up with toekick material or hidden under cabinet, so don't worry about using cheaper plywood or placing pocket holes hidden.

Remember to drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching bottom shelf, about every 6-8 inches.

Step 3

Next, add your bottom shelf. Attach bottom shelf to the sides with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, and attach bottom supports to the bottom shelf.

Step 4

Top supports are attached as shown. You may wish to use a smaller board at the top front support depending on your sink type/size - or when you cut out for your sink, just plan on cutting through that top support.

You could also just leave out the top front support, but you will need to be extra careful when attach the face frame in later steps to make sure the sides are still 28" appart.

Step 5

Step 6

Build the face frame seperately, using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then attach to front of cabinet through the predrilled pocket holes on sides and top using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. The bottom won't have enough room to fit a drill in, so we nailed and glued along the bottom.

Step 7

We used full overlay doors (purchased from Cabinet Now) in the above sizes. When cabinets are assembled, this leaves a 1/2" reveal of face frame between all doors and drawers. For these door sizes you will need 1-1/4" Concealed Euro Hinges, 2 per door.

For the false drawer front on the sink, simply nail and glue in place from back.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

tbotello

Thu, 12/05/2013 - 13:06

I'm really curious to know what your finish cost is per cabinet (or for the entire cabinets) versus store bought. We're about to build and were looking at going with IKEA cabinets since they're less expensive and I'd love to know if these would be even more cost effective.

Ana White

Thu, 12/05/2013 - 18:40

Hi! I can tell you that we spent about $2000 on the cabinets - including doors, drawers, hardware etc. BUT that is with 3/4" PureBond Plywood, full face frames made with hardwood, full overlay hardwood framed doors in a raised panel cope and stick, and the wall cabinets go to the ceiling. 

This also included boxing in the fridge.

I know we have a similar sized kitchen (but couldn't afford the raised panel doors) built with comparable materials and it cost $7500 (this was before I built furniture). 

If you built cabinets like IKEA does - and I've heard they actually stand up decently -

image from IKEA

You are into the cabinet two side panels of particle board and a bottom shelf, and a 1x2 support across the top.  You have to buy legs seperately.  Doors are particle board with veneer.  This is $195 for the 36" base.  I know we could build this for much much less .....

Would you all be up for a set of cabinet plans that are more budget friendly?  

tbotello

Thu, 12/05/2013 - 19:05

Yes, we're definitely up for "budget friendly" plans! We're only just now about to break ground so we're quite a bit aways from kitchen walls being up. That IKEA cabinet/door combo is the exact one we're going with except the shaker front's will be white.

dananryan

Mon, 12/09/2013 - 08:29

Hi Ana,
We just found out that we'll be moving next summer (curtesy of Uncle Sam).
We will have to sell our house and would love to fix up our outdated kitchen without breaking the bank.
Budget friendly frameless cabinets would be an awesome alternative to Ikea.
:-)

tbotello

Sat, 12/14/2013 - 14:34

And we're also going with Kraus 36" stainless farmhouse sink so it'll be interesting to see how we plan on designing the base sink around that.

DecorSanity

Thu, 12/05/2013 - 15:45

Love these cabinet plans, awesome. Although it's probably an industry term I should know, I don't know what "vanilla" means--I'm sure it's not a reference to the color of the cabinets. I'd say this kitchen is far from plain old vanilla, it's like triple chocolate chunk! ;-)

In reply to by DecorSanity

Ana White

Thu, 12/05/2013 - 18:48

Aw thanks!!!!

We have dubbed it the "vanilla" kitchen just because we went pretty standard with everything, and it's got a ton of white in it. We are working on kitchen number 2 (planning phase right now) and it's much more complicated ... we just might have to call it the 3x choc chunk!

cherelle6kids

Fri, 12/13/2013 - 14:40

Ana,

Thanks so much for your site!! Looking forward to your plans for the apron sink base. We are trying to purchase a farmhouse and the kitchen needs a complete overhaul! Would appreciate a post on how you go about putting appliances where and such.

You're given me the inspiration to build. So far, I've made the queen storage bed for my son and I'm currently working on mud room lockers.

God Bless you! Praying for a safe delivery of that little one.

tlcheek

Sat, 07/09/2016 - 04:29

Anna-

Thank you so much for the plans!  I came across your site a couple years ago and loved it.  It took me a while to get all the tools to start building and learn how to use them.  I've made the adirondack chairs, planter and small table as my learning projects.  I'm proud to say I've just completed the blind corner cabinet, 12" base cabinet, 30" sink base and the 36" corner cabinets for my kitchen.  I'm just waiting for my counter tops to be delivered to install.  I used 3/4 birch and I have to say they are beautiful!  Thanks again!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!