Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 08/23/2019 - 14:53
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Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This table has been built tens of thousands of times and is loved the world over for it's basic material composition, simple clean lines, easy to build steps, and sturdy, functional size.  Our step by step plans with diagrams make it easy.

This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan.  We also have this plan available to build without pocket holes.

farmhouse table

Built by Hillary at The Friendly Home, we upgraded the farmhouse table for pocket hole joinery (no visibile fasteners) and easier construction.

Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money.

Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.

The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table.

And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!

PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.

PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out this beginner friendly 2 Tool/$50 Farmhouse Table plans

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Farmhouse Table Pin

farmhouse table plans
Dimensions shown above.


Shopping List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
  • 1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
  • 1 - 2x10@ 70-1/2" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
  • 2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.

Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!

Step 2

Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.

Do both ends.

Step 3

Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.

Step 4

Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.

Step 5

Attach base stretcher with pocket holes underneath.

Step 6

Now start building your tabletop.

Step 7

Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.

Step 8

Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Tue, 11/26/2013 - 11:47

Is there a way to make the legs or tabletop (and stretcher?) removable to make it easier to move? Bolts? Brackets? I have yet to build this table but want to make sure it can move to my next place of residence with me. Any insight is appreciated!


Thu, 01/23/2014 - 08:24

Reply to shankel: (if you haven't built this table yet...) We're in the process of building this table right now. We're making the table top and also the frame removable. We bought some metal threaded inserts in the hardware section of the hardware store, and the hex bolts that will fit into them. (so that we can screw and unscrew the pieces apart as many times as we need without stripping out any wood) We're going to end up having 4 separate pieces of table that will be able to go together. Piece 1: Table top with long aprons attached. Piece 2: 2 legs with short stretcher and short apron attached. Piece 3: (opposite) 2 legs with short stretcher and short apron attached. Piece 4: Long stretcher. We're attaching 2 short 2x4 boards that will be screwed directly under the tabletop, but fit snugly just inside where our short aprons will sit, so then our metal threaded insert will be in the 2x4, and we can put our hex bolts from the short apron straight into the 2x4 to attach. Also, then we'll have the metal threaded inserts in the short bottom stretchers, so then we can screw/bolt the long stretcher bar into it on each end, but it'll still be removable. Does that make sense? We just finished assembling the table top last night, and haven't started on the frame yet, so this is our plan... in theory... but we'll see how it actually works once we get that far! :) Good luck!


Mon, 12/16/2013 - 20:49

This was my first Ana White project and I'm very happy with the results. Very solid design and easy to execute. Hillary's suggestion to use the polyurethane really paid off -- our 3 year old has gotten glue and marker on the table so far, and both wiped off without a trace.


Wed, 01/22/2014 - 21:33

I was wondering if anyone has used epoxy or something else to fill in the seams of their table top? I don't want to deal with crumbs and nastiness getting stuck in the grooves all the time. I read somewhere in the comments that someone used some type of silicone to fill in the seams, after staining but before poly, but now I can't find the comment. Could you sand an epoxy down if you overfill? Would that scrape up your stained board and cause unever color? I just don't know what to do, and wondered if anyone had tried anything. Thanks!


Thu, 06/05/2014 - 12:16

hi there, i see most people made their table with pine, but will using a softwood in a table not be very easily damaged? would a hardwood not be alot better to stand up to wear and tear, how have peoples tables lasted throughout everyday use?


Tue, 08/05/2014 - 11:42

I guess it all depends upon the preference of the end user. Some people like the soft wood and the ding's and dents that make it more rustic. Others like the sturdiness of hardwood that can absorb more impacts without leaving blemishes.


Tue, 09/23/2014 - 13:51

I am building this table and saw on the husky farmhouse table, that you built for your sister, you put silicone in the gaps... 

I have kids and I am worried about the gaps/dips.... would you recommend filling them on this table with silicone?

If so... how? What kind? and if not... have any tricks up your sleeve? 

In reply to by Rjcross

Stephen Peters

Sat, 09/27/2014 - 17:24

Instead of silicone I would use a caulk called "Lexol" it is clear like water and will not yellow like silicone. I would only use it in the gaps between the boards to keep liquids from "running" through. Don't over tool it. One wipe with your finger is all you get.

Either use it sparingly deep between the boards so it doesn't "oouse" out.....or after one coat of finish...let dry...then continue your finish coats. Hope that helps

Come to think of it "Dap 230" has a clear caulk that is very elastic that would be easer to use. It is water clean up. Not quite as clear but if you finish over it ... it won't be noticeable.

The problem with silicone is that it yellows quite badly over time and it will cause "fish eyes" in your finish. That would be a horable mess to clean up. :(  Have fun with your project! This looks like a perfect table for boys.

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