Side Base Cabinets (Rebecca Media Suite)

black entertainment center side cabinets woodworking plans
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Build your own media wall with our Rebecca Media Suite collection of plans.  In this plan, you can build your own side cabinets, shown on either side of the center console plans.  Adjust the width to fit your space and needs.

Our step by step plans with full diagrams make it easy.  

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black entertainment center side cabinets woodworking plans

This project was built in collaboration with Rebecca:

These are a source of great storage. I love that the console piece cupboards and these ones are different sizes so that you really could fit what you need. * If you are building the entire media suite: This plan uses every available piece of wood for what it needs. If you want to add additional shelves you will need to purchase more wood. Actually I had to piece two scrap pieces together (using glue and a Kreg jig) to get enough wood for one of these side pieces. I put that piece at the base to one of the units. It should be strong enough on it's own, but the base is supported by two 1x2's on the ends so I figured that was the strongest place for it (see step 2) Please see cut layout at the end of the plan. 

Thank you Rebecca! Make sure you stop over and visit Rebecca for lots more photos and details!


You can build all the pieces in this media suite.

black media suite custom built in


 

NOTE: This plan is for TWO side bases.

 

 

Dimensions
black entertainment center side cabinets woodworking plans
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1- sheet 3/4" plywood
  • 1- sheet 1/4" plywood
  • 4- 8ft 1x2's
  • 3- 8ft 1x3's
  • 52" of 2" tall base molding
Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

3/4" Plywood

  • 4 @ 11 3/4" x 33 3/4"
  • 2 @ 11 3/4" x 25 1/2"
  • 2 @ 11/3/4" x 24"

 

1/4" Plywood

  • 2 @ 25 1/2" x 34 1/2"
  • 2 @ 18 1/4" x 25 1/2" (these are your door fronts, your measurements might be different)

 

1x2's

  • 2 @ 32 1/4"
  • 4 @ 25 1/2" (These are your door frames cut for a mitered angle. Your measurements will be different if you are doing a butt joint)
  • 4 @ 24" (These are your door frames cut for a mitered angle. Your measurements will be different if you are doing a butt joint)
Cutting Instructions
  • We recommend ripping the plywood into strips 11-3/4" wide x 8 feet long.  Then just cross cut the strips to create the pieces needed in the cut list.
  • If you are only making one of these units, you could buy a 10 ft 1x12 instead of the 3/4" plywood and it would be enough for the box. Just remember that sometimes a 1x12 is only 11-1/4" not 11 3/4"
  • If you would like to add a shelf inside the cupboards you will need to purchase extra wood - we recommend 1x12s for the shelves.
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build the box.

Step 2

Add bottom supports.

Step 3

If you have a pocket hole jig, build face frame first and attach with finish nails and glue.

Step 4

Then add top header.

Step 5

Step 6

Add moulding to front.

Step 7

And finally the doors!

Step 8

Rebecca was kind enough to put together a cutting layout too.

Step 9

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Handygirl

Wed, 04/18/2012 - 07:48

This looks awesome!!! I'm so proud of you, especially doing this with 2 kids and pregnant! :-) I was curious about the doors, but I went to your blog and you answered my questions. Thanks!

redhead_61

Thu, 04/19/2012 - 14:42

Hey everyone it just occurred to me that I wrote this plan, mainly the shopping and cut list as if you were building TWO of these units!!!!! Please refer to the cut list for a better look at what you will need. That 3D image is of everything and it helps to see how it all can be cut the most effectively. If you only want one, then half all the required pieces. SO SORRY. Reply to this comment and I can email you a bigger file of the cut list, you can't see the text very well.

Shasta (not verified)

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 20:20

I would also love to build this. :) Would you please email me the cut list as well. [email protected] Thanks so much!!

Shasta (not verified)

Sat, 06/16/2012 - 05:51

In the cut list above the 1x3 cuts aren't labeled. Are they for the doors? That is what I am assuming anyway. I am pricing out this lovely entertainment center (thank you so much, by the way) and am trying to figure it all out before I go and purchase a heavy load of wood. :) I am using cherry plywood and cherry moulding for this though. We have an awesome lumber yard that only specializes in hard woods, and is unbelievably affordable.

My other question....since I will be using moulding in place of some of the 1x2's, could I not add the 1x2 and just put moulding in place of it? I will use the 1x2's for the support, but the front pieces that act as moulding, could I just replace it with only moulding? I hope I am making sense. I also hope that you or Anna or anyone else can answer this for me. Thank you so much for these plans....now I will attempt to build this with my 4 kiddos here (two of which are 2.5 years old). :)

In reply to by Shasta (not verified)

redhead_61

Fri, 10/19/2012 - 12:10

Sorry the title to the 1x3's is off to the side in the cut list. Just read through each plan. Most of them are for doors, but there are a few places that a 1x3 is used for support and framing.

If you wanted to add a rounded molding instead of the 1x2's that is totally doable. I attached the 1x2's using a kreg jig, so if you wanted to do molding you would use a finish nail or you could just glue and clamp all the pieces, but a nail makes it all a little easier.

Good luck!

peter (not verified)

Tue, 08/07/2012 - 15:17

This looks awesome and I plan to start working on this immediately. Would you mind sending me the cut list as well? [email protected]. Thank you so much.
Peter

step02

Tue, 02/11/2014 - 09:34

I believe the text 1x2's cut list found at the top of the page is mislabeled. The parts that are currently stated for the mitered door trim is instead parts for the face frame and bottom shelf supports. The 1x2 section should read:

1x2's
4 @ 24" --------> Bottom Shelf Supports
4 @ 32 1/4" ---> Face Sides
4 @ 25 1/2" ---> Face Top and Top Front Edge

Depending if you built them mitered as in the plans should read under 1x3's:

6 @ 29 1/2" (These are your door frames cut for a mitered angle. Your measurements will be different if you are doing a butt joint)
6 @ 22 1/8" (These are your door frames cut for a mitered angle. Your measurements will be different if you are doing a butt joint)

These would be the long measurements for the mitered frame pieces.

Final 1 x 3 piece would be 1 @ 22 1/2" for the face bottom.

Medickep

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 19:35

Another reason I'm not a fan of cutting everything ahead of time. if you use a 1x2 on the bottom portion of the frame you will have an exposed edge from the bottom of the box. Mind ended up needing to be 2 1/4" wide. It may have been my bad but the directions don't reflect the width of it!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!