Frequently Asked Questions
Wood Questions
What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!
Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.
What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.
What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.
Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.
Cutting Questions
Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.
How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.
Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.
Joinery Questions
What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.
Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.
How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.
Finishing Questions
Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.
What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.
How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.
Plan Questions
Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.
Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.
Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.
General Questions
What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.
Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.
What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!
What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.
I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.
Care & Maintenance
How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.
How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.
How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.
Want to Build with Confidence?
Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.
Still Have Questions?
Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!
Comments
Nora (not verified)
Mon, 04/18/2011 - 14:04
Sectional...
You are awesome... I was trying to see how I could come up with a way to update your plans to do this one... I loved it when I saw the PBbcatalog.. Awesome job... Can't wait for the sofa plans...
Butch
Mon, 02/06/2012 - 12:10
Great look!
I'm using this idea to build some custom patio furniture by our new pool. Thanks for sharing.
Eric (not verified)
Fri, 06/08/2012 - 10:57
Arbor
Is there a plan for the virtual arbor in the picture as well?
Eric (not verified)
Fri, 06/08/2012 - 11:30
Um nevermind.. Sorry.. This
Um nevermind.. Sorry.. This looks great..
JordanMorris (not verified)
Tue, 06/26/2012 - 10:33
ESTIMATE PRICE?
I love your plans Ana, but is there any way I could ask you for an estimate total cost to build these were? Lumber/hardware/etc.. just what you bought? I find so many cute plans but I shy away because I don't want to start it and end up finding out it's way more than I bargained for, lol :(
bkay8686
Mon, 05/19/2014 - 08:07
Dimension question
Hello!
So I am using these plans but adjusting for 27.5 x 27.5 cushions found at west elm. One thing I noticed if you use the plans above for 24 x 24 cushions, the total length of the seat comes out to be 49" (45" 2x6 plus (2) 2x2s for legs). Is there supposed to be an inch difference between the total length of the seat and the combined length of two 24x24 cushions (48")?
I adjusted the 2x6 cuts to be 52" (back and front) and 26.5" (sides) to account for my 3.5" difference with my cushions and the 24x24 used for the above project. Finally, one note is to NOT use pressure treated 2x2s because they are actually 1.5x1.5 which will mess up the dimensions if following the dimensions above verbatim.
Love the plan but looking to understand if the 1" difference is intentional or not.
pde00311
Mon, 05/19/2014 - 09:44
Dimensions
bkay8686, This question is actually fresh in my mind since I am just finishing up building and modifying this design to fit the 22 x 22 Pier One cushions that I bought over the winter. If you are building an armless loveseat as part of a sectional, you are going to want the combined cushion length to equal the combined length of your boards, INCLUDING the frame. In other words, you ultimately want the cushions to go flush over the 2 x 2 frame, your 2 x 6's need to be cut shorter (reduced by the width of your 2 x 2s) to accommodate this, and adding an extra inch would be awkward (accordingly, I think Ana's plan measurements anticipate 2 x 2s that actually measure 1.5 x 1.5). HOWEVER, if you are trying to build from the plans with the armrest/side-piece, the cushions will actually fit inside the armrest, so to speak. So in that instance, the 2 x 6's should be cut to your combined cushion length. Does that make sense?
pde00311
Mon, 05/19/2014 - 10:13
Dimensions
Oh...I almost forgot, in terms of depth, the cushions on both the armed and armless plans fit inside the back of the couch, but are flush with the front. So if your west elm cushions measure at 27.5, the width measurement of your 2 x 6 added to the front 2 x 2 should equal 27.5. (depending on the width of your 2x2s, the combined measurement of your sides will equal 29-29.5).