Frequently Asked Questions
Wood Questions
What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!
Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.
What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.
What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.
Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.
Cutting Questions
Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.
How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.
Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.
Joinery Questions
What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.
Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.
How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.
Finishing Questions
Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.
What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.
How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.
Plan Questions
Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.
Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.
Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.
General Questions
What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.
Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.
What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!
What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.
I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.
Care & Maintenance
How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.
How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.
How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.
Want to Build with Confidence?
Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.
Still Have Questions?
Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!
Comments
A (not verified)
Wed, 09/29/2010 - 19:55
Brilliant! One more item on
Brilliant! One more item on my list of "to build". now I just need to find a place to hang them!
alexis (not verified)
Wed, 09/29/2010 - 20:03
These are fantastic! I can't
These are fantastic! I can't wait to build these!!!
Charles (not verified)
Wed, 09/29/2010 - 20:10
Great Idea... good look
Great Idea... good look without the weight. These will look great in our log cabin. I'm going to add a groove, or 'plate rail' so I can adjust the 'slant' of framed pictures. I will sand the top of the frame to make it easier to keep them dust free. Thanks for the idea, and of course the "easy to read" plans. BTW, my 12 yr old Grand-daughter is making two of your square bar stools from plans !
Hilary (not verified)
Wed, 09/29/2010 - 20:56
Love these. Finally I will
Love these. Finally I will get to use my jigsaw...I have no idea what to do with it!
virginia (not verified)
Wed, 09/29/2010 - 23:10
Simple is best, and this is a
Simple is best, and this is a simplicity at it BEST!
You knocked it out of the park with this one Ana!
Heather (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 01:07
Love these!! Can't wait to
Love these!! Can't wait to make them :)
Alicia (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 02:09
Omgosh, that is just the
Omgosh, that is just the greatest thing! And I am totally taking your whale silhouette :) My son is now begging me for some in his room!
Valerie (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 02:55
No way! Oh my goodness I <3
No way! Oh my goodness I <3 it! I was wanting this very thing for above my sofa but I was going to go about it a tooootally different way. Um, the harder way. So a million thank you's for posting this. You just made my day. Thanks Ana!
Laura (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 03:12
Here I had planned to make
Here I had planned to make the 'floating' shelves, but now I have to make a decision! argh!
Amanda (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 03:38
OMG! This is EXACTLY what
OMG! This is EXACTLY what I've been needing for my kitchen! Anna, I love the stain you used too -- it is so rich!
Amanda (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 03:39
Oops. Didn't mean to misspell
Oops. Didn't mean to misspell your name, Ana. :) I can't wait to do this as I have these scrap boards just sitting in my garage.
Michelle (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 03:42
I LOVE these and will
I LOVE these and will definitely be making them soon! They are perfect for the look I'm going for in my living room!!
Heather C (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 03:49
LOVE!!! Wow, Ana, you are so
LOVE!!! Wow, Ana, you are so impressive. Your blog is my favorite thing to go to every morning. Really gets me motivated to start the day and get things done so I can build!!
AMANDA (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 03:50
Is it just me or does this
Is it just me or does this key hole thing not make since...I don't get how the head of the screw is going to fit into the small part. Once you put the head into the larger hole how will it slide into the smaller part without having the space for it to go into. Can someone please explain this to me???
megnstuff (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 03:55
I love these. We were going
I love these. We were going to build the floating shelves for our basement family room, but maybe these would fit the decor a bit better. I love how rustic they look. They will go great with the Tryde table and the crate carts we plan on building. Can't wait to get started on all these projects!
Kristen (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 04:14
Amanda, you got me to
Amanda, you got me to thinking about that. The answer? The shelf is not solid. The head of the screw will go into the empty space in the center. Just the shaft will slide up the keyhole and lock those shelves on the wall. I may just have to do these. Ana is brilliant!
Sunny (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 05:06
If you were to use a 2 X 4
If you were to use a 2 X 4 scrap cut to 1" thick for the ends, you could have an end-grain look on the whole beam.
Liz (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 05:15
The shelf is hollow. The
The shelf is hollow. The keyhole is made all the way through the 1x4. The screw head will go through the big part of the keyhole and as the weight of the shelf is placed on the screw it will snug up into the narrower part of the keyhole so that the head of the screw is on the backside of the 1x4. Maybe that helps?!?
Pam the Goatherd (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 05:31
Amanda, the screw head fits
Amanda, the screw head fits through the bigger part of the hole, then the whole thing slides down on the wall a teeny bit so that the smaller part of the hole is around the shaft of the screw. That way the screw head is holding the box/shelf securely on the wall.
Karen Lynne (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 05:43
This was the exact thing I
This was the exact thing I was thinking, so it's NOT just you! : ) Looking forward to seeing any responses. LOVE these shelves.
perumbula (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 06:12
You push the shelf onto the
You push the shelf onto the screw so the head of the screw is actually all the way through the board. Then the shelf will slide down and sit only on the shaft of the screw. So the upper part of the keyhole only needs to be that wide.
Heather C (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 06:48
@ Amanda, the head of the
@ Amanda, the head of the screw goes into the larger hole, then once the head of the screw clears the board, the shaft of the screw can slide up into the smaller part of the keyhole and the head of the screw (being inside of your shelf) will hold the screw in place so that it does not slip out. Hopefully that helps. :)
sewzanne (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 06:59
Awesome. I love these
Awesome. I love these
Jennifer Wallace (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 07:03
I was thinking the same thing
I was thinking the same thing until I thought about it. I'm not sure, but I think that you drill all the way through the board. The interior of the shelf is hollow. So The head of the screw goes through the big hole and out the other side of the board, then up to the little hole. The little hole is too small for the head to go through, so the shelf rests on the screw shaft.
Ana White (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 07:13
Amanda, because the shelves
Amanda, because the shelves are hollow inside, the head of the screw fits behind the smaller part of the keyhole, and the shaft of the screw fits in the smaller part of the keyhole. makes for a nice tight fit without any hardware expenses.
Ana White (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 07:14
Thanks Heather, didn't see
Thanks Heather, didn't see your comment before commenting. Also, make sure you holes are perfectly level so your shelves hang level.
Ana White (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 07:18
Some other tips - I
Some other tips - I distressed slightly (wish I had done more) with the wire grill brush to create "scars" in the wood that hold more stain = darker blemishes in the finish. These were so fun and easy, good luck!
lisa (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 07:24
Hi Ana, Love these. Can
Hi Ana,
Love these. Can you share more about what stain you used? Thank you!
Ana White (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 07:30
Okay, just had to add a few
Okay, just had to add a few more notes.
If you use a 2x4 scrap for the end filler piece with the end grain showing, all the boards will have end grains showing. This will make the beam look like a true beam. The 2x4 can be any length, probably at least 2" to keep it from splitting apart.
If you choose to make yours longer, drill keyholes every 24" for support when hanging.
Loni (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 16:42
I was totally just thinking
I was totally just thinking the same thing, except, I've already started buidling the floating shelves and I know as soon as I mention these to my husband he's going to say "no, finish what you started!" lol.
Loni (not verified)
Thu, 09/30/2010 - 16:48
I love these too! I think i'm
I love these too! I think i'm gonna make a long one for my living room to be a mock fireplace mantle since we don't have a fireplace.
But I had an idea, Would it work (and look good) if I wanted to use some 2x2's with 1x3's (or 3x3's with 1x4's) to make small shelves for decorative plates to sit on in kitchen?
Thanks so much!
Amanda (not verified)
Fri, 10/01/2010 - 00:28
OH!!!! HOLLOW! Right. Thanks
OH!!!! HOLLOW! Right. Thanks everyone! So now I have to ask....does anyone know how to get a keyhole slot made with a solid piece? There have been several projects that I want to fit flush with the wall and that's the only solution that seems right for it. However, I have no idea how to get it made! Any suggestions?
Sheela (not verified)
Fri, 10/01/2010 - 04:17
@Amanda re: keyhole in a
@Amanda re: keyhole in a solid piece of wood - I think you'll need to use a router with a keyhole router bit to create a keyhole hanger in a solid piece of wood. I love Ana's way of creating one through this hollow piece, but I can't think of a way to do a similar thing with a solid piece. Hope that helps.
Ginger (not verified)
Sat, 10/02/2010 - 03:25
These are beautiful! Wonder
These are beautiful! Wonder if it would work (longer) as a fireplace mantel? We've been wanting a rustic beam look for that, but as you know those are pricey...hmmm, well if we go for it, I'll send a pic!
Ana White (not verified)
Sat, 10/02/2010 - 08:32
Ginger, that is a fantastic
Ginger, that is a fantastic idea! I can't wait to see your mantle.
Mandy (not verified)
Sat, 10/02/2010 - 11:18
OMG!!! i am super excited
OMG!!! i am super excited about these.. i was looking to get longer shelves to put up on the landing of my stairs and have a photo gallery there.. and these are PERFECT!!!! i am so excited i am off to lowes in about 30 mins.. YIPPY!!! (its like 2 mins from my house) Thanks ANA!!!!!!
Kristen (not verified)
Wed, 10/13/2010 - 18:10
Love, love, love this! Now
Love, love, love this!
Now if I wanted to turn this into a mantle over my fireplace (which we are completely overhauling), what would be the best way of securing it to the wall? I am thinking keyholes might not be enough.
Any suggestions?
Amy (not verified)
Fri, 10/22/2010 - 09:12
I just made one of these
I just made one of these shelves and am ready to start on the second. I love how easy this plan is for someone like me who is just a beginner! Thanks Ana - I love your website and am ready to tackle some bookcases for my daughter's room.
Heather S (not verified)
Wed, 12/22/2010 - 20:11
lol, me too! I'm in the
lol, me too! I'm in the middle of making 3 of the floating shelves and stumbled upon this. Now I don't know what to hang where!
Heather S (not verified)
Wed, 12/22/2010 - 20:20
Ana, how did you make the
Ana, how did you make the grain on the sides match up? I can't see any joint lines where the 1x2s would be. Gorgeous; I hope I can do the same!
Shannon (not verified)
Mon, 01/24/2011 - 14:33
Hey Anna, I made these a
Hey Anna,
I made these a couple of weekend ago. I followed the plans directly and then noticed when they were done that in your pictures you have the board extend down below the middle piece as well as above. In the plans it shows the boards all flush at the bottom. I like the look of them both ways, but I'm planning on doing some bigger ones that will look more like beams for our dining room, and I think I'll make them the way they are pictured instead of the plan. Thanks for the inspiration and the plans!!
Shannon (not verified)
Mon, 01/24/2011 - 14:38
Just a quick note before
Just a quick note before people start the project - in the pictures she has the front and back pieces extending down below the middle pieces as well as up. In the plans she has the bottom all flush. It's possible to do either depending on whichever view you prefer.
TheHLT
Mon, 09/20/2021 - 08:16
Offset measurements
Right.
I noticed that the front/end pieces were offset creating a lip for both front & back of shelf.
Glad you posted this as I asked her in a comment 🙂
Shannon (not verified)
Mon, 01/24/2011 - 14:40
sorry delete this one - i
sorry delete this one - i didnt think it was posting
erin (not verified)
Sat, 02/12/2011 - 10:58
hey ana! i love these
hey ana! i love these shelves, but have a question about attaching to the wall. we are buying a home with a brick fireplace without a mantle. i think this would be the perfect thing to make and use as a mantle, but i just don't know how to attach it to the brick. can i just screw into the brick and attach it as normal? do you have any suggestions?
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 11/28/2011 - 15:16
Stain
Hi Ana,
New to your site and really enjoying it.
As it pertains to this project - I'm wondering what you used for stain and whether or not you varnished it after? Same question again for the pallet beam.
Bernie
Jesse (not verified)
Wed, 02/01/2012 - 12:28
Keyholes for Barn Beam Ledges
Hey Ana,
I love a lot of your work. I plan on making some of your plans. I like the $10.00 ledges and I like these Barn Beam Ledges as well. I did want to ask a question about the keyholes. My understanding is that a keyhole starts with a hole large enough for the screw head to fit into, then undercuts the wood so that you are left with a slot large enough for the shaft of the screw and a groove beneath it large enough for the head of the screw, thereby securing the screw in place.
From your instructions, I do not see how you are accomplishing this. It would seem to me that the narrow part of your keyhole would sit right on top of the screw head or that the entire screw head can slide down that narrow section. Either way, that shelf could easily pop off the wall with out having the material present to keep the screw head from sliding out of the groove.
I know of two ways to accomplish this. The first is a keyhole bit for a router. The second may be more your speed. I saw it demonstrated at woodworkingformeremortals.com. This gentleman makes a large slot in his project piece the a laminates about a 1/8 inch piece on top in order to achieve an actual keyhole that secures the screw in place.
I just thought you might like to know. If you had 100,000 hits and 1% of those built this project, then you have 1000 people with a shelf in their home that will pop off the wall if it is nudged in the wrong way.
Other than that, keep up all the good work. You might also consider giving sketch up lessons on your website as well. Can’t wait to see what you come up with next.
Sincerely,
Jesse
Kelsey (not verified)
Mon, 04/23/2012 - 06:56
TOTAL NEWBIE - questions!
So I am totally new at all of this stuff..... be prepared.
I do not understand where to put in the screws? Are they exposed on the underside or are they at an angle?
And also, should I drill a smaller whole first then use the screw, or do you put the screw directly in?
Thanks so much!
jasminebernadette
Wed, 06/11/2014 - 12:17
Please help!
So I attempted this shelf, all went well up until I had to nail the 2 in nails into the wood, long story short it was extremely difficult to get the nail through and ended up splitting the board -_- I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong! I used hemlock for this shelf, I don't know if that is the problem, any advice would be very much appreciated!!!!!
In reply to Please help! by jasminebernadette
Lady Goats
Wed, 06/11/2014 - 13:28
Nails
Are you hand nailing the nails in, or using a nail gun? If you're hand nailing, you could try to predrill the beginning of the hole and hammer slowly. Try putting the nail a tad further from the edge of the board, if possible, and hammer it straight in. If you're using a nail gun, the pressure might be set too high on the compressor. Try lowering the PSI a tad (I usually have mine set to around 80 PSI, but it varies with the type/thickness of the wood). Hope this helps!