Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

easy to build nightstand
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build a cabinet style nightstand, bedside table or end table.  This project features a planked wood rustic look, creating beautiful detailing in either a paint or stained finish.  Simple hinges on a door create storage.  

This plan is popular because it looks beautiful, is sized just right, is easy to build, can be built using scrap wood, and has a good amount of storage.  Free step by step tutorial with detailed diagrams, shopping and cut lists from Ana-White.com

This nightstand or bedside table plans was built in collaboration with Whitney from Shanty2Chic.  More photos and build post is here.
Build the Set: Love this bed too?  We have plans for the bed frame and the matching headboard here.

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Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

Dimensions
nightstand dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • ¾” plywood cut into 15 ¾” strips x 20 ½” long – one required, additional for shelves optional
  • 1 – 48” wide by at least 22” high pine wainscoting panel for sides and door
  • Optional ¼” plywood for back
  • Set of 2 2” strap hinges
  • Knob or handle
  • Magnetic clasp
  • 1 ¼” pocket hole screws
  • 1 ¼” brad nails
  • ¾” brad nails
  • Wood glue
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 @ 12 ¾”
  • 2 – 1x4 @ 12 ¾”
  • 4 – 1x2 @ 26 ¼”
  • 2 – ¼” paneling or plywood @ 15 ¾” 21 ¾”
  • 1 – ¾” plywood @ 15 ¾” x 20 ½” (additional for shelves)
  • 4 – 1x3 @ 26 ¼”
  • 2 – 1x2 @ 17”
  • 2 – 1x4 @ 17”
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 22 ½”
  • 2 – 1x3 @ 16 ¾”
  • 2 – 1x3 @ 14”
  • 1 – ¼” paneling or plywood @ 16” x 19”
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

You will need to build two sides. I recommend a Kreg Jig here for the easiest and best edge to edge joint.

Step 2

Then just cover the back in plywood or planking of choice. This completes to two sides.

Step 3

Now we add the bottom shelf.

Step 4

Next, build the front and back frames.

Step 5

Attach the four panels together.

Step 6

Build the top first, then attach to top.

Step 7

Next, build the door as shown here, and attach with hinges.

Step 8

And if you want, you can add a back.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

JezzebellKing

Tue, 02/07/2012 - 11:25

This is beautiful OMG. Im thinking of doing the same for my sons. BTW could you please please give me the color of this finish because is the perfect color . please reply :) Great Job!!!

Leener (not verified)

Fri, 02/10/2012 - 19:30

Hi! This is absolutely gorgeous! I have a question though and I feel as though I am overlooking something that is either a) painfully obvious, or b) obvious to an experienced woodworker.

If you cut the front and back frame 1x2s and 1x4s at 17" and then attach a 1x3 to each side, wouldn't that make the table 23" across rather than 22" (17+3+3)? And for the side frames, if you cut the 1x2s and 1x4s at 12 3/4" and then attach a 1x2 to each side wouldn't that make 16 3/4" rather than 15 3/4" (12 3/4 +2+2)?

I just want to make sure before I do my cuts!

Thanks so much for this idea, I'm really looking forward to building it!

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 02/12/2012 - 10:18

Without studying the plan, I think what is throwing off your measurements is the nominal size of the wood. A 1x2 is 3/4 x 1 1/2 and a 1x4 is actually 3/4 x 3 1/2. Hope this helps!

Leener (not verified)

Fri, 02/10/2012 - 19:37

Hi! This is absolutely gorgeous! I have a question though and I feel as though I am overlooking something that is either a) painfully obvious, or b) obvious to an experienced woodworker.

If you cut the front and back frame 1x2s and 1x4s at 17" and then attach a 1x3 to each side, wouldn't that make the table 23" across rather than 22" (17+3+3)? And for the side frames, if you cut the 1x2s and 1x4s at 12 3/4" and then attach a 1x2 to each side wouldn't that make 16 3/4" rather than 15 3/4" (12 3/4 +2+2)?

I just want to make sure before I do my cuts!

Thanks so much for this idea, I'm really looking forward to building it!

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 02/16/2012 - 21:17

Hi, this is absolutely beautiful. Thanks so much for the plan. The finish you've chosen works perfectly with the design. You mentioned the stain you used. Can you tell us what coating you used on top of this? Thanks again for the inspiration.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 02/19/2012 - 15:24

Can anyone please advise....what kind of wood to use? or did she use in this amazing design??? Thank you!

susyb1027

Wed, 02/22/2012 - 10:10

I had in mind something similar a while back but something that opens at the top that I can keep next to the toilet in the bathroom so it can hide the plunger and toilet brush. And then put a little latch on the door to keep my kids from trying to investigate it.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 03/06/2012 - 18:21

Is there another link for the plans to make the headboard? The link here just opens up a thumbnail photo, but doesnt go anywhere.

Stacie (not verified)

Sun, 05/06/2012 - 11:43

I see the top is built from 1x4 cut to 22.5". The cut list calls for 4 boards, but the width of the 4 is only 14". The picture has 5 boards, which give the correct dimensions of 17.5" listed in the drawing. Is the correct number to cut actually 5, or did I miss something?

In reply to by Stacie (not verified)

claydowling

Sun, 05/06/2012 - 20:07

You should never trust a cutlist completely unless you've made it yourself, and even then you should probably hold it suspect. They're tricky things. The most recent Popular Woodworking had a good article on how to create and use your own cutlist.

Randy Endemann (not verified)

Wed, 07/25/2012 - 10:41

Hi Anna -

I am getting ready to build this, but to make it fit our room, I have to reduce the height by about 2.5 - 3 inches. Before I go and redesign everything in Sketchup, is there any way you can email me your sketchup file to work from?

Thanks in advance!

Randy

Dan Pelton (not verified)

Fri, 11/09/2012 - 11:19

Do you have any other plans for other projects?
We loved this one.

tinkerjeannette

Thu, 01/24/2013 - 09:51

Hi Ana, just want to say that I LOVE LOVE your work !!!! I'm planing on doing the toddler farmhouse bed but I also wanted to make this adorable nightstand to go with it... would it be possible to make it smaller ? this is the first time, so I don't know how to start on doing the measurement adjustments for a smaller nightstand... please if you can help !!!

thanks :)

Shell and Berto

Fri, 09/20/2013 - 14:44

I built these for my wife, I can't complete them because I can't find 2 inch strap hinges!!!!!!!! I'm going nuts, can't even find them online. I can find the silver color kind, but no black. Please reply with a link or something where I can get them. Thanks.

StevenCooper

Wed, 12/11/2013 - 21:36

How did you guys attach the top? As it stands now I going to do it with countersunk 2" screws through apron from bottom.. any better ideas?

jempey23

Wed, 10/08/2014 - 14:41

What happens if you don't have one? Any way to do these without one? Love these!!

Renee514

Wed, 03/04/2015 - 06:48

Where did you find the 2" black strap hinges? I am having a hard time finding those in store and on the internet. I love the look with the strap hinges.

Thanks

paulah96

Mon, 01/08/2018 - 15:42

Where can I find the waintscoting panels? I've looked at Home Depot and Lowes and the only thing I found has a white coating on it. I've looked online and finding the same thing or I have to spend like $300 or more.

silverwhisper

Tue, 11/19/2019 - 17:27

Hi, unless I am truly overlooking it, I don't see what dimension boards to use for each step.  Can you please indicate somewhere on the illustrations or in the instructions what dimension boards are used?  For example on the side frames, I can't tell from the photos or illustrations if it is 1x2 or 1x3, and I can't tell if the bottom piece is a 1x3 or a 1x4.  Thank you

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!